brycarp Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Hi All, I picked up a used '96 Impreza Outback 2.2L and have already replaced the leaky steering rack + took care of several engine oil leaks around oil filler and valve covers, but I still have a pretty bad engine oil leak and I suspect it's the rear main seal. (But the torque converter is as dry as a bone, though.) I might just live with the leak for a while, but it gets oil on the exhaust pipe which smells bad and is probably somewhat of a hazard. I'm a newbie to Subaru's - been pretty much a "Brand-H" guy, but I decided I'd rather have AWD. Seems to me that the answer for separating the engine/tranny enough to replace the rear main would be to leave the trans/front diff in place and pull the engine. Can anyone point me to any online resources that would help with tips about how to support the trans/lift the engine, etc? Anything tricky about R&R the rear main seal once it's exposed? Sorry if this is an FAQ - I did try searching first to see whether I could find anything here. Thanks! Bry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 subaru rear mains are not forgiving and frequently leak once replaced. i'd use an OEM subaru seal and proceed very cautiously/slowly to make sure it's installing perfectly flush. rear main seals very rarely leak on subaru's, i'd make absolutely sure it's the rear main seal before attempting it. but they can leak, it is a 15 year old car. so yank the motor and replace it. if it's an automatic make sure you know how to seat the torque converter or you run the risk of ruining your transmission. just bolting the engine and trans together will crush the trans oil pump without properly seating the torque convertter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 It could be that plate over the hand hole, those like to leak and are often mistaken for a leaking rear main. There is an upgraded plate and screws to fix that leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 (edited) Search "Oil separator plate". Oh and for some info on yanking the engine: http://beergarage.com/Subaru.aspx Edited August 1, 2010 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brycarp Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 It could be that plate over the hand hole, those like to leak and are often mistaken for a leaking rear main. There is an upgraded plate and screws to fix that leak. Hi Porcupine, I'm trying to figure out what you mean by "hand hole." I did notice the plate on the back end of the passenger-side head - looks like that's the place the cam shaft comes out when the head us used as a driver-side head, and just has a cover when used on pass. side. I don't think the leak is coming from there - I paid attention to that possibility. But maybe it's something else you're talking about. Any further info? Thanks! for your reply. Bry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 The access hole is covered by the oil separator plate the other poster mentioned. You won't be able to see it unless the engine is separated from the trans. Here's some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brycarp Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 rear main seals very rarely leak on subaru's, i'd make absolutely sure it's the rear main seal before attempting it. but they can leak, it is a 15 year old car. so yank the motor and replace it. if it's an automatic make sure you know how to seat the torque converter or you run the risk of ruining your transmission. just bolting the engine and trans together will crush the trans oil pump without properly seating the torque convertter. Hi Grossgary, I definitely intend to do more "process of elimination" before I'd dig in to actually separate the engine/tranny. I'm curious about the TC seating issue. I guess I'm used to having the TC be unboltable from a torque plate that's bolted to the crank. So the TC would stay with the tranny when the engine is separated. Is this not how Subaru's have it? Also, your comment about "Subaru rear mains rarely leak" is more info than I had, so I appreciate that. I already think it shouldnt be the rear main if the TC is dry, but I haven't yet figured out where the oil is coming from. I guess I need to unbolt the engine mounts and jack up the engine a little to get a better view. The crossmember with the steering rack in it kinda blocks the view. Thanks for your help! Bry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brycarp Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 The access hole is covered by the oil separator plate the other poster mentioned. You won't be able to see it unless the engine is separated from the trans. Here's some pics http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/engine/rms-metal2.jpg http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/engine/rms-metal3.jpg Wow! Thanks for the great pics! Guess I have a new "prime suspect" for the leak. While it's still a hassle to split the engine/tranny, replacing that plate/gasket would be lots easier than doing the rear main seal. Also, it fits with the fact that the torque conv. is dry. I'm assuming that the "bottom" of the engine is to the left in the engine pic? So that cover plate is on the pass. side relative to the crank? The leak definitely seems to be coming from the pass. side. Best regards, Bry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 That separator plate is a very common source of leaks. IIRC some years had plastic plates--they should be replaced with metal ones. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 and if you have an auto trans, search "torqueconverter" and read up on re-seating it before you re-install the engine or you could ruin your trans. read the oldest posts first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Please refer to this video series "Art of Subaru Maintenance" 1-3 for pulling your engine. Although the videos demonstrate an ea82 engine, procedure will be mostly the same. Follow the advice on where to place the jack on the trans, and how to separate the bellhousing and torque converter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Here's the best DIY EVER on removing a subaru engine; I've followed it and successfully pulled an EJ22 and EJ25! IT is so simple that after the first time I did it; i didn't even have to consult the DIY to pull an engine (albeit, it's about 5 hours from car parked to get the engine out in the heat, 2-3 hours in the shade, so def find shade and don't suffer heat exhaustion/cramps. It sucks..) http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t63237-diy-engine-removal.html Plus you'd fit in since you have an impreza. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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