MTSuby Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 (edited) Any advice? It's pretty young: just 139K. Has some oil leaks...I was told valve cover gaskets but possibly also oil pan gasket. I know this is common on the EA82. I did the valve cover gaskets on my 87 when I had it, and I remember it being tight, but not too hard? Someone want to refresh my memory? Not sure about the oil pan. Otherwise, I'm just curious what to look out for on this model. I know Subarus are a bit quirky, so any advice would help. The guy before me was running a really thick oil. What do people here recommend? It doesn't have the owners manual. There's a "door lock" or something light that stays on all the time. Otherwise...a rough idle (maybe idling too low), and a slight hesitation. When I'm steady at one speed on the gas, I feel like something is holding it back a bit, it kind of "pulses", like I'm tapping the brakes on & off. Also just heard a noise today...when I turn either direction, at a certain angle, something is rubbing. Kind of higher pitched rubbing noise. I don't know if it's brakes or axle shaft or just power steering pump or what. Also, I do a lot of work on my Toyota truck. The factory service manual for Toyotas is really really good. Is the Subaru FSM worth it? Otherwise I'll just get a Haynes or Chilton. Also, what's the normal operating temp for these? My 87 ran a bit on the warm side. I know it could be the gauge that's being weird, but I've never seen this one get past the very low end of the temp range. It raises up a bit above cold, and never moves any higher. Nowhere near halfway. A lot of questions! Edited August 2, 2010 by MTSuby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTSuby Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 Anyone at least have some advice for me on this year/model Subaru in general? Common issues, nice features I might miss, basic maintenance specific to Subarus... Actually one thing I'm really wanting to know is what type of tune-up stuff people regularly do. If I get plugs, wires, cap & rotor, should I go Subaru, or get something (good) aftermarket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 the door lock lite stays on unless the doors are locked. beware of lifter tick(tick of death), your operating temp sounds fine. mine(91 loyale spfi) runs around there. keep oil and water in it or youre screwed. If a ea82 overheats it has a tendency to warp the heads beyond reasonable repair. my .02 Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTSuby Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 Thanks, that's a start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 NGK BPR6ES plugs and NGK Wires are good. Cap and Rotor, just go with a parts house brand (Napa, Carquest etc.) Do not get Autozones brand though "Tick Of Death" is nothing to worry about, it will not kill the engine - it just gets annoying to hear, that only really happens if a Lifter is collapsed. Run some Seafoam through the Brake booster air hose and also in the fuel to clean it. It will remove carbon and varnish build up. Don't bother putting it in your oil, for your oil, try MMO or some ATF (Then change it at about 200miles) then just put freash 10w-40 in it. NEVER USE FRAM OIL FILTERS! Buy Napa, Propulator, Carquest aka WIX, or Genuine Honeywell filters. Maybe change the fuel filter if you feel like it. -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTSuby Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 Thanks! Yeah, I know about Fram. I use Napa Gold in my Toyota. I'll get the NGK stuff. I usually don't even go in Autozone, but I think maybe they have NGK, and Napa doesn't? I'll find out. Yeah, my friend's Subaru of the same vintage had the tick of death for years. I could always tell when he drove by my house, but otherwise, the car seemed to do fine. I've got some Seafoam in the fuel, I'll run it through the brake booster, too. Slow, right? I'm used to carbed vehicles where you really can just pour it in the carb, but I read something about hydrolocking the engine? That would suck. Now, do you mean just top off the oil with ATF a couple hundred miles before I plan on changing it, or drain the oil, fill with ATF, then run a couple hundred and change again? I bought a new fuel filter. Going to do the valve cover gaskets. It's leaking more oil than is even acceptable for a Subaru Otherwise it seems to be in good shape. I think my turning-noise is the power steering pump. Only happens at a certain point in the turn (left or right), and I think it only happens when it's hot out. Other than that stuff and a slightly rough idle and some hesitation, it has a lot of power (way more than my 87), and it's getting good gas mileage so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Cool, glad your in the "Know" about most this stuff already. As for adding ATF to the oil, if you were going to add some to clean the gunk out, drain 1/2 qt to 1. qt out of the pan and then put that amount in of ATF, do not over fill and for god sake do not just run ATF! You could try Marvel Mystery Oil in there first, just top it off and run it till you do your next change. ATF is the more extreme route - and shouldn't be left in too long. As for feeding Seafoam into the booster, take the hose off of the booster OR off of the intake where it runs to and put a hose you have laying around (1/2" gas line works) onto where it runs on the intake (That way is much easier to get to then) but anyhoo, hold the engine rpm up some as it'll want to die once the vacuum leak happens (Booster hose) then just have it suck 1/2 or 1 can of Seafoam and then shut it off, let sit for 10-15min and refire (It'll be hard to start this time) then just rev it (harder you rev it the more buildup it's gonna blow out) wait till most of the smoke stops then take it onto the highway and blow the rest out (4000rpm shifts) and that engine will be one happy camper afterwards! Good call on the Valve cover seals, I need to buy Fel-Pros gasket/seal kit and replace those someday. -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTSuby Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Great, thanks. Yeah, I remember some of this stuff from my 87 Subaru, and some stuff is universal...I've learned a lot with my Toyota, But some stuff I don't know or don't remember. One last thing before I start actually doing this stuff...I really looked under the engine today. Seems like some of the leak may be stopped by just tightening the oil filter, but it's hard to say. I will say that it seems like the leak is coming from under the timing cover...but I know how oil tends to move around, so it's hard to tell. I think I was looking at what were the valve covers, and I'm not sure they're the source of my leak...but it's a cheap fairly easy job that it won't hurt to do anyways, so I'll do it, clean the bottom of the engine pretty well, and see what happens from there I guess. Thanks for the help. I bought my Toyota (1983 4x4) and it became a serious project...like me pulling the engine, tranny, and eventually rebuilding the t-case, replacing differentials, rebuilding carb etc. etc. etc..... I was buying this Subaru to get away from projects..though I know it could turn into one. Anyway I was looking for something I wouldn't have to do too much work on, that would be a reliable road trip vehicle. Hopefully this is what I was looking for... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Yeah a Subaru is a good vehicle that doesn't need alot of attention to keep going - Oil leaks are pretty much something your gonna live with lol. "If your Subaru isn't leaking oil, its probably out" but the thing is these leaks really won't get any worse only thing is you'd have to check your oil every week depending. As for possible leaking coming outta the timing covers, very likely, in most cases its the oil pump seal (Looks like a Mickey Mouse head) well one of the "Ears" tend to get sucked in and cause a leak, easy fix. Along with the Cam carrier seal/orings and Crank seal. All easy fixes and not to big of a deal. If you do T-belts, do the leaks at the same time along with the waterpump and Oil pump. And leave the timing covers off (Loads easier and quicker to do belt changes) takes a 1-2hr job down to 20min. I run coverless and so do a lot of these guys. Plus you can see the belts/tensioners everyday if you want. Cheers, -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTSuby Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Great, thanks. Yeah, the leak I've got now is bigger than I'm willing to put up with, so I'll do something about. Thanks a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTSuby Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 Well, I haven't done too much...oil change, fuel filter, seafoam, and replaced the failing alternator with the spare that came with the car (soon to be a spare again, thanks GD), but I did take it on a 500 mile road trip this weekend, and it did great. More power than any vehicle I've ever owned (which isn't saying much since I stick with old Toyotas and Subarus, but still..), easy to drive, 31mpg. I think I need new shocks, since it tends to be hard to keep in a straight line, and gets wobbly when I hit bumps, but otherwise it did great. I'm going to do the timing belt/oil pump/water pump/cam seals early next month, and then it should really be a pretty solid car. Just turned over 140,000 on that trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Good job! Glad its working out for ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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