External filter and cooler - input please

[nipper]

Ok i am tired of getting beaten up om the snob list so let me ask for opinions here.

 

Verbally here is the flow...

 

From the plate (over the oil filter ) port out to the ext. oil filter port in.

From the oil filter port out to the oil thermostat hot side.

From the cold side back to plate port in.

From the Thermostat hot out to the cooler, then to t-stat cold in.

 

Other details:

At about 3 feet from the engine oil filter plate the hoses are higher then the oil filter t-stat and cooler.

I am using the original oil pressure light switch in it's original location. It is basically useless as it turns on the idiot light at 4psi.

The oil t-stat opens at 180 degrees.

This should add 2 more quarts to the Justy's 3 qt oil circuit.

The plumbing is as Perma-cools instructions.

The oilfilter has a anti drain back valve in it

 

I have the oil temp sender at the return (in) port of the engine oil filter plate. I think I got confused and put it in the wrong port, it should be on the out port to the filter.

 

I want to install the oil pressure gauge sender at the In port of the oil filter,

 

The way the oil flows in the justy engine is pan to oil pump (oil relife valve feeds back to oil pump input) to oil filter (oil bypass valve goes around the filter) to the crankase main gallaery. Off the main gallery is the oil pressure switch. The oil pressure switch has some weird rump roast thread I can not match. The Justy guys just force (!) a standard thread into the hole. The engineer in me sees this as blasphamy.

 

 

Here are the questions:

 

Where would you put the oil temp sender (I think I have to move it from the return to the outlet, ehat a beach that will be).

 

Where would you locate the oil pressure gauge sender.

 

Is it necassary to put a check valve in the return line that cracks open at 4 psi.

[porcupine73]

That sounds like a nice setup, and a great way to get some extra oil capacity and keep it cool without over cooling.

 

I would put the temp sender as close to after the oil pump as possible, with the thinking being this is going to be nearly the hottest area with access to put the sender. The oil gets hotter than that circulating through the engine of course and then back to the pan, where it cools off some.

 

I would put the pressure sender as far from the oil pump as possible in the setup. That is going to let you know the pressure going into the engine then, so if the filter or any of your line is blocked you may see the pressure drop.

 

I've done similar setups in some soobs but with bypass oil filters (keeping the existing full flow) but I just put the temp sender and pressure sender on the bypass filter mount; not ideal but it was the only easily accessible places I had to put it (tapping in at the factory oil pressure switch under the alt for the oil source).

 

If your oil filter already has an adbv in it then I don't think a check valve is required. Check valves don't always fully close properly anyway. Plus if it isn't large enough you might get a little pressure drop across it.

[nipper]

That sounds like a nice setup, and a great way to get some extra oil capacity and keep it cool without over cooling.

 

I would put the temp sender as close to after the oil pump as possible, with the thinking being this is going to be nearly the hottest area with access to put the sender. The oil gets hotter than that circulating through the engine of course and then back to the pan, where it cools off some.

 

I would put the pressure sender as far from the oil pump as possible in the setup. That is going to let you know the pressure going into the engine then, so if the filter or any of your line is blocked you may see the pressure drop.

 

I've done similar setups in some soobs but with bypass oil filters (keeping the existing full flow) but I just put the temp sender and pressure sender on the bypass filter mount; not ideal but it was the only easily accessible places I had to put it (tapping in at the factory oil pressure switch under the alt for the oil source).

 

If your oil filter already has an adbv in it then I don't think a check valve is required. Check valves don't always fully close properly anyway. Plus if it isn't large enough you might get a little pressure drop across it.

 

Ok so I screwed up on the oil temp sensor (mumble). My original thought for the oil pressure gauge was fine, but I may put it after the filter. The oil filter holds one qt all by itself. The oil T-stat fails open and has some minor pass through at full open and full closed to keep things circulating.

 

What I had originally

 

 

 

 

I have designed these things before, but since the Justy is such an odd bird, the way they were crowing I was wondering if I was overlooking something.

 

PS - It is a Purolator PureOne filter

Edited August 3, 2010 by nipper

[porcupine73]

Looks nice! The temp sender could probably be in either place really, it just depends what you want to know from it. If it's after the filter and cooler then you know the temp of the oil going into the engine; if it's right after the pump that can be informative too because you can see how hot the oil is pretty much leaving the pan.

 

Over my temp sender I wrapped a layer of reflectix insulation, just to try to keep any air flowing over it etc from making it read low.

[porcupine73]

Are you going to give her the rally paint job?

 

The Justy with the world land speed record for the 1.0 production class.

[nipper]

Sadly no. It is the charcoal brown. I just painted the bumpers, surrounds on the tail and frt turn signals and trim. I would like some flash to it as it looks so ..... brown.

 

I saw one screaming yellow but he stripped it down to the shell to do it.

[nipper]

Looks nice! The temp sender could probably be in either place really, it just depends what you want to know from it. If it's after the filter and cooler then you know the temp of the oil going into the engine; if it's right after the pump that can be informative too because you can see how hot the oil is pretty much leaving the pan.

 

Over my temp sender I wrapped a layer of reflectix insulation, just to try to keep any air flowing over it etc from making it read low.

 

Law of thermodynamics over time it wouldnt matter as the temps would equilize. Granted on the inlet you would see a longer lag.

 

But in truth I really dont want to take that apart again unless I got the flow wrong.

[porcupine73]

Sounds nice! Maybe you could get someone to make up a custom vinyl wrap for it.

[nipper]

I'll post pics as soon as I finish the trim. It has been to windy to paint. I am getting really good at masking

[porcupine73]

That sounds good, looking forward to the pics. Yes wind has a nasty effect on paint If it's windy enough a sea gull might get stuck in the paint. Maybe some yellow Subaru rally stickers would work?