Timing issues? EJ22 Swap

[Scooner]

Still messin with my swap here and i finally got the car to start and run, but it runs terrible. Fairly hard to start and idles rough and when you give it gas it stumbles like crazy and then starts to idle even higher and i've found that it is most happy at 2500rpm. It'll sit there and idle all day at that, but as we all know that is just dumb. I verified that the TP sensor is good and all spark plugs are firing. I borrowed my brothers timing light tonight to check that but....the bulb was dead in the gun haha. Basically what i am wondering from anyone whos done timing on these EJ22's is could the timing become messed up some how? I drove the donor car into the garage from 70 miles away. I was thinking that maybe the crank sensor and cam sensor perhaps aren't in sync anymore (if that's possible)? Should i just take off the belt covers and make sure the notches are lined up? It really seems like the timing is off to me, because it almost back fires and just the way it runs rough and smooth at a high rpm. One more thing i used a fuel pump off of a 87 GL-10 and it puts out 64 psi, the 22 only requires 34 is this a big deal or does it just mean more gas will be returned to the tank?

[Gloyale]

check the condition of the wires goin into the Crank and Cam sensor plugs.

 

I recently went batty trying to get a swap to run right, until I found the crank sensor wires worn though to a single strand.

 

you can test the Cam sensor wirng by simply unplugging the cam sensor while it's running. it will default to "limp" mode....which actually will make the car run better if the Cam wiring is the problem.

[Scooner]

I pulled all of the timing covers off just to double check that all of the lines on the 2 cams were lined up and they were, along with the crank, so now i definitely know that the timing isn't off at all. So i started to poke around the cam sensor like you were saying and when i unplugged it the car jumped up in rpm alot to like 5000 rpm. So i traced my wires all the way back to the computer and i forgot that when i first stripped the harness out i cut the cam sensor wires too close to the plug for some reason so i tried using some other wires and their metal part for this.....well that was not so good, because the plug was mangled inside and i don't think there is anyway for a signal to truly be steady. Well, i guess the next step is to find a new plug, one guy said i could cut one off of a harness but i'd have to pay for the entire harness. Screw that. Guess it's pull and save for me. Unless one of you guys in Denver might have one for me?

[Gloyale]

Coil plug is the same as the Cam sensor and the A/C plug is the same as the Crank Sensor

[Scooner]

oh no i should have been more specific, i need the bright yellow plug that plugs into the ecu. There in lies my problem haha

[porcupine73]

I don't know if this is related to your issue but I just thought I'd throw it out there, the timing marks on the back of the cam sprockets that the cam position sensor picks up are different between some engines. If you're using the original ECU, you might want to make sure the back of the sprocket on the new engine is the same as the original.

[porcupine73]

One more thing i used a fuel pump off of a 87 GL-10 and it puts out 64 psi, the 22 only requires 34 is this a big deal or does it just mean more gas will be returned to the tank?

For the volume of the pump, the fuel pressure regulator should still be able to keep the pressure required at the fuel rails. Is that 64psi the dead head pressure? The EJ pumps will put out around that much too dead headed when the internal relief on the pump opens. The fuel pressure regulator is really a back pressure regulator and then the excess returns to the tank. I don't know the 87 GL-10 but if it is carb'd then as long as you don't mean 6.4 psi instead of 64 that should be ok.