My next roo input, thoughts, ideas, do's don't

[rweddy]

So my current roo, 91 LS Wagon, just hit 200k and I am starting to think about replacement options.

 

I have owned somewhere around 15 Subaru's, oldest 76 newest a 96 Legacy outback.

 

I want my next ride to be an automatic, I do lot of endurance mtn biking and mtn climbing & sometimes my legs are so spent I barley push down the clutch. This will be my 1st auto and I want to have access to the duty c mod on 4eat trannys.

 

I want to be able to lift the wagon just like my current 91 and already have set of 15 outback wheels/studded tires.

 

These all lead me to 97-99 model legacy outback or GT wagon.

 

Engine options, I am planning on getting one with bad or leaking 2.5 motor and swapping it with something that would be easy bolt in, don't want to spend too much $$ or time fabricating this

 

* 2.2 - what model year would be the best for this? Wasn't 96 last of the non-interference motors?

* 2.2T - how hard or is it impossible to do this

* 2.0 T - out of a WRX, would this bolt right in?

* any other options?

 

Lift options - I currently have outback struts on my legacy love the additional height.

*GT wagon - can I do the same and put on outback struts to achieve lift?

*Outback - how can I lift this? My current 91 sits higher than 96-99 OWB so I want to go up an inch or two since even now I hit bottom from time to time on trials with my set up

 

Anything I am missing or other options I should think of?

 

I know I could go with 96 outback, but then I would have to swap in auto, way too much work from what I have read. I could try to find a nice 91-94 touring wagon and get turbo and sunroof, but these are rare and hard to find one nice, plus wife wants me to get something with dual airbags.

Edited August 8, 2010 by rweddy

[Gloyale]

I'd get a 95-99 regular Legacy. Already got a 2.2.

 

And then put outback struts on it.

 

 

 

 

......Alternately, I'd get an 96-99 Outback, swap in a early, dual port exhaust 2.2 (hows the engine in your 91?)

 

Then I could make you some 1 or 2 inch spacers for the tops of the Outback struts. (1 inch would out CV's at mild angle....2 inch would max out at full droop, but work)

[rweddy]

I'd get a 95-99 regular Legacy. Already got a 2.2.

 

And then put outback struts on it.

 

 

 

 

......Alternately, I'd get an 96-99 Outback, swap in a early, dual port exhaust 2.2 (hows the engine in your 91?)

 

Then I could make you some 1 or 2 inch spacers for the tops of the Outback struts. (1 inch would out CV's at mild angle....2 inch would max out at full droop, but work)

I am not a big fan of the regular legacy style and I thought 97-99 were interference motors is this not true?

 

My engine is good has a bit of tick of death with 206k on it, but I might just get a rebuilt 2.2 and swap it in.

 

Great Idea on the spacer lift, I have a friend of friend that has cnc machine so that is great idea!!

 

Thanks for response Gloyale, USMB keep them coming.

[johnceggleston]

+1, i'm with gloyale get a legacy, 95- or 96, and add the struts. you'll have a more economical final drive ratio than the outback. if you are climbing hills or towing get a GT or outback with bad head gaskets.

 

the GT already has the outback final drive and you can put the struts on it as well. adding outback size tires will, in effect, give you an outback setup.

 

i am amazed at how desirable the outbacks are as opposed to a regular lego. i'm guilty of this myself. but for 200$ used or 300$ new, you can lift any legacy to the outback height, maybe higher, and the rest is mostly paint and plastic.

 

but outbacks do look good.

[rweddy]

+1, i'm with gloyale get a legacy, 95- or 96, and add the struts. you'll have a more economical final drive ratio than the outback. if you are climbing hills or towing get a GT or outback with bad head gaskets.

 

the GT already has the outback final drive and you can put the struts on it as well. adding outback size tires will, in effect, give you an outback setup.

 

i am amazed at how desirable the outbacks are as opposed to a regular lego. i'm guilty of this myself. but for 200$ used or 300$ new, you can lift any legacy to the outback height, maybe higher, and the rest is mostly paint and plastic.

 

but outbacks do look good.

 

That is so true John, I am also doing because I am going to outback limited for leather heated seats etc. or GT wagon for the sunroof.

[johnceggleston]

i wish i could justify the money right now. 1" lift for legacys, this includes outback.

 

http://www.subtle-solutions.com/product_info.php?products_id=107&osCsid=c591d4acde04fad58fbb010eb8aa74ce

[ShawnW]

Ive got my moms 98 Outback Limited for sale. Its got a rebuilt Ej25 with 30K or so on it, auto, dual sunroof, leather heated seats, the works. Runs and drives great. Only issue, and I may have fixed it, is the starter doesnt engage sometimes with the ignition switch. I have a backup switch (hidden) installed for when it doesn't work that has worked great and I just cleaned the contacts on the inhibitor switch and that may have been the culprit.

 

Its also been in a very minor front end accident. I have replaced everything that needed it. A few brackets got silicone instead of replacing the whole unit. I had to put a new hood on it and replaced the top radiator support as it was slightly bent. Radiator and engine were not affected, bumper got replaced.

 

Its up here in Westminster, has an Iowa title but was only there for 2 winters has been out here more than there in the time they have owned it.

 

Only thing it might need is a cam seal replaced on the LH bank. I could do that before you take it or you can do it and take a discount on the cost. Not a terribly hard job just timing belt and a cam gear.

 

Vin verification has been done and it passed emissions already. E test might be expired as I went out of town for 45 days and I think they only last 30 but I will re-do it if needed.

 

PM me to discuss or call me 303-641-7947.

 

Photos here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Gen2Brats/1998OutbackPhotos20100806

[logic23]

I think it depends on what you are going for.

The 98 outback dual moonroof is the cream of the crop.

Some 98s have the newer style transmission with the screw on filters.

99s have several one year only parts. I drive a 99 dual moonroof converted to 5 speed and i think im going to swap the ecu etc to a 98 or 97 setup.

The engine of choice would be the 95 2.2 auto (non interference dual port exhaust with egr)

you can add forester struts to get more height.

This set up will give you the best of all worlds...cheap parts+ dependable ride

Or you could get a 99 OBW and convert it to the phase two setup

[WoodsWagon]

A legacy with outback struts will have more ground clearance than an equal year outback. This is because of the subframe drop blocks that were put in at the factory to keep the axle angles the same in the outbacks.

 

What this means is that it's acceptable in a factory outback to put in as much lift at each of the struts as the thickness of the subframe drop blocks. Or, you could go 1/2" more and still be ok, but the lower ball joint and outer CV joint angles are getting pretty steep at full droop then.

 

Now, a lift is pointless if you don't run big tires. The limiting points are usually the rear spring seat, and the leading edge of the rear wheel well, but a sledgehammer takes care of that, and a sawzall is good for trimming the bumpers. A skidplate to protect the oil pan is a must, it hangs right out there and takes a beating if you don't have one.

 

If you get one with blown headgaskets, check to see how it runs. If it runs pretty good and quiet except for overheating, do the headgaskets and put the 2.5 back in, they are good motors other than the headgasket problem.

 

Or, put a 95 automatic tranny 2.2 in or a 96 auto tranny 2.2 with the exhaust header pipe too. Both will bolt up and plug in to any 96-99 outback. There is a noticable power penalty though.

[danbennett2u]

A tick of death isnt really a sign of something horribly wrong with the engine, if it is too annoying you can always work on the HLA's.

 

If you really do want a newer car with two airbags, and you want to stay away from the 2.5l problems, I would just buy a 95 or 96 regular legacy that already has a non interference 2.2, just like others have suggested. There isnt much you lose by going a couple of years older than what you are looking at, and you save the trouble and cost of an engine swap.

[rweddy]

I think it depends on what you are going for.

The 98 outback dual moonroof is the cream of the crop.

Some 98s have the newer style transmission with the screw on filters.

99s have several one year only parts. I drive a 99 dual moonroof converted to 5 speed and i think im going to swap the ecu etc to a 98 or 97 setup.

The engine of choice would be the 95 2.2 auto (non interference dual port exhaust with egr)

you can add forester struts to get more height.

This set up will give you the best of all worlds...cheap parts+ dependable ride

Or you could get a 99 OBW and convert it to the phase two setup

If I was going to to with Phase 2 I would move up to the newer body style.

My dad had a 02 but it blew the HG @ 50k. I also don't think the 2nd generation outback suspension can be lifted for cheap and/or without a lot of work.

[rweddy]

 

If you get one with blown headgaskets, check to see how it runs. If it runs pretty good and quiet except for overheating, do the headgaskets and put the 2.5 back in, they are good motors other than the headgasket problem.

 

Or, put a 95 automatic tranny 2.2 in or a 96 auto tranny 2.2 with the exhaust header pipe too. Both will bolt up and plug in to any 96-99 outback. There is a noticable power penalty though.

 

I am more worried about the 2.5 crank issues after HG are done, I have a couple of friends who have done gaskets only to the motor seize a year or two later after dropping 1500 for HG.

 

Is the power really that different between 2.2 & 2.5? I might need to drive them again but I have driven my dads 2nd generation and it didn't seem to have much more power than my 2.2 if any.

[Gloyale]

If I was going to to with Phase 2 I would move up to the newer body style.

My dad had a 02 but it blew the HG @ 50k. I also don't think the 2nd generation outback suspension can be lifted for cheap and/or without a lot of work.

 

Actually, the '00-'04 can be lifted two inches easily, without having to drop the subframe.

 

I make a kit for them. Like this.

 

Oh....and as said, TOD on an EJ22 is an EASY fix. rockers come right off as one assembly. then pull the HLA's and re-prime them in a pan of oil. works everytime.

 

If you find a good outback with a bad 2.5....you're non-interference 2.2 would be a perfect bolt in solution.