hatchsub Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Figured i would give you guys some pictures of what ive been up to. Unfortunately i do not have pictures of the inside of the engine that got messed up. I really dont know what happened to that motor other than the fact that the two cylinders with lower compression were DISGUSTING. So instead of wasting my time with that motor that may or may not still be ok i decided to throw a set of NICE heads on my 52k mile original EA81 solid lifter motor out of the coupe. Here are the specs on the heads -.030 shaved off each head - 5 angle valve job - extensive port and polish - New valve seals The block itself has been entirely resealed and cleaned up. I even went so far as to remove the very little carbon that had accumulated on the pistons. This motor is damn clean on the inside as shown by the first picture. No i did not clean it up for that shot...it was that clean when i pulled the pan and bellhousing off. Second picture is the pistons and bores. This motor still has VERY evident crosshatching in all cylinders and no score marks that i could find. And here are the heads torqued back down onto the engine with all the valves adjusted. I did NOT clean up the rocker arm assemblies at all. Thats how clean everything in this motor was when i pulled it apart. The only thing left for me to do is open up the holes in the intake so i can bolt it on again and this thing should be ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Perfect candidate for Mobile 1. It's amazing how clean and well-preserved the engines I've pulled apart that have used synthetic are. I've pulled two so far - one for a clutch/reseal and the other for a burnt valve (probably a clogged injector) and both over 200k but looked like your engine inside. . The one I did the clutch on has 260k on it (EJ22) and has great power still for being a '90 Legacy with high mileage. Looks good - definitely consider synthetic for that one. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Looks Great! @GD How soon after a fresh Hi-Po EA81 rebuild should one switch to Full Synth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Awesome!! Hope it goes great. Looks like the inside of the motor in my Brat. Super clean!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84gl Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 I would of pulled the pistons and swapped them for ea82 spfi pistons but thats a very clean ea81 and should run great and have about 180-190 pounds (more or less) of compression its cleaner than the one that I got with my brat it only had 7,000 miles on it and had blown head gaskets from over heating (used as a hunting truck on a ranch ) I don't think they ever changed the oil in it for the 18 year they had it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 How soon after a fresh Hi-Po EA81 rebuild should one switch to Full Synth? If it was a full rebuild I would run it for the first 5k with regular oil - changed at 1000, and 3000 along with the filter to insure all the break-in metal content was was taken care of. I would cut the filters and inspect as well. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobieryan Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Wow that's clean. I would love to get ahold of one that looked like that!! Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted August 8, 2010 Author Share Posted August 8, 2010 I would of pulled the pistons and swapped them for ea82 spfi pistons but thats a very clean ea81 and should run great and have about 180-190 pounds (more or less) of compression its cleaner than the one that I got with my brat it only had 7,000 miles on it and had blown head gaskets from over heating (used as a hunting truck on a ranch ) I don't think they ever changed the oil in it for the 18 year they had it My plan for the future is to do that along with a Delta cam in the hydro lifter block that i have...that is after i have it cleaned and do a full rebuild on it. This one was just a matter of wanting to get the motor back together as soon as i can with as little hassle as possible. The heads the machine shop had done in 2 days which was awesome. If i had known it would take as long as it has with the parts to get here for it i probably would have just done it all but live and learn. It should still be a bit snappier off the line. And GD i will most likely be doing the synthetic now that i saw the inside of my other motor. I used just normal napa oil (valvoline) and it looked like crap even though i changed it every 3k on the dot basically. I think im switching over to synthetic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 The heads the machine shop had done in 2 days which was awesome. Damn. My machinist is awesome then........cause I get mine done in about 4 hours. Maybe cause I drop the heads off with a dozen donuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Maybe cause I drop the heads off with a dozen donuts That's a good trick! I should try that. Although they are really good at getting me back resurface jobs really quick - at times it's been 20 minutes and I just wait there. If it's a full valve grind and resurface it's usually the next day. Port and Polish is like a week out.... the guy is real popular that does that for them. Cool shop though - all they do is heads (and flywheel resurface) and they are know for their work. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84gl Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 two days is sounds petty quick but it only takes about three hours to check and shave a head you just have to change the set up on your mill and get everthing indexed in if you already have the clamping fixtures made already and to check a head all you have to do is clean the mating surface and place it on a surface plate and check for gap with feeler gauges as for cracks or valve leaks with subaru heads we use a gasket maker and all thread bolt the two heads together plug off two spark plug holes an install check valve fittings in the anther two fill with compressed nitrogen and die to 750psi and wait for leaks under a uv light as for resurface jobs the are usually done on what amounts to a big belt sander and check for flatness on a surface plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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