Sesh's 1987 GL Build Thread

[kanurys]

Do you guys think Permatex Ultra Blue will work fine to mate the cam carriers to the heads?

 

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Blue_Multipurpose_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

 

Since I have half a tube left, I'd rather use it up, than go buy Ultra Grey.

 

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Grey_Rigid_High-Torque_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

[horton316]

i have always used the blue permatex for coolant gaskets only a friend of mine used the black on his heads. have you ever used the high temp orange? ive used that in high head situations even exhaust works real well. do what you will but i wouldnt chance a leak there over an 8 dollar tube of rtv have fun

[kanurys]

My thoughts exactly. I went out and grabbed a tube of Ultra Grey and a helacoil kit since someone stripped out the cam seal carrier bolts before I bought the vehicle. Here are some pictures of my process and where I'm currently at:

 

 

 

Before:

 

After:

 

 

 

Before:

 

After:

 

 

 

 

Bleeding the lifters

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aaaaaaand... time for a beer.

 

(that's my girlfriend's impreza)

[Cup O Noodles]

Sorry, what's the paint for? I think you called it mechanic's paint, is it so you remember what is new or worked on or fixed or whatever?

[kanurys]

Actually, it's so readers without any thoughtful comments get a seizure when they look at my pictures...

 

This is a useful but low budget rebuild I'm doing for fun. If I can't have a little fun painting it, then why even clean anything?

 

is it so you remember what is new or worked on or fixed or whatever?

Sure - The valve covers worked fine before, so did the water pipes, and the pulleys, so I guess you nailed it, in a sense.

 

Oh, and the term I used was engine enamel.

Edited August 26, 2010 by kanurys

[kanurys]

sorry, maybe that was a little harsh. Anyways, the paint is just for style. When I had a completely iron engine, I painted things to keep them from rusting, but those were Willys days...

[rpholz]

I personaly thought the paint comment was hilarious.

I would of painted the valve covers yellow, then cam housing black then heads yellow and block black. and you would of had a bumble bee. or a hornet. then you could put decals that say HORNET and noone would get it. lol

 

or perhaps that's a stupid idea. either way. good job on the build, looks good

[kanurys]

Ya, I thought it was funny, too. Thanks for the hornet idea... maybe next time I rebuild a gutless supreme.

[kanurys]

Does anyone have a pdf of the COMPLETE FSM for an EA82? Mine is missing the clutch section and a few others. What are the torque values for the pressure plate, etc...

 

Oh, it's a 23 spline clutch.

[kanurys]

OK. After a trip to the Ace hardware, I got a few things and finished the PCV system. I also installed the flywheel and pilot bearing.

 

I picked up this little guy for $0.70, which has a brass insert near the bottom end that I could clamp to:

 

 

And made a spot for him using a 1/4" bit in the carburetor filter mounting plate bolt hole with a little help from a zip tie on the carb mounting stud for support.

 

 

I used the T from the original PCV setup to connect the drivers side breather, PCV valve and the smaller vent to the air cleaner. It worked GREAT. (The blocked off hole in the corner of the filter mount is my brilliant idea before realizing the filter sat right over it, as my neighbor pointed out.) Now I have the proper sized tubes running to the proper ports.

 

 

Clean and designed just like the diagram in the FSM. This routing makes me proud.

 

Edited August 26, 2010 by kanurys

[beataru]

Thats great!, you can come over and redo my PCV anytime. Ill even give you one of my precious Dr. Peppers. But only one.

[kanurys]

Phoenix? It might take two Dr. Peppers. It's a long ways from Durango.

[beataru]

I suppose I could get a Liter bottle. Maybe. I wish my engine looked that clean.

[kanurys]

elbow grease + lots of degreaser = shiny aluminium

[kanurys]

Time for an update:

 

I installed the one little piece of timing cover to protect the driver's side timing belt. Pics later.

 

The day was mostly spent on cleaning the engine bay and staring at the transmission. I think I might rebuild it another year. For now I have these questions:

 

-What is the Pressure Plate to Flywheel Bolt torque on a 23 spline setup? Neither my haynes manual or my partial FSM have this number.

 

-What is the proper torque for the bolts that hold the input shaft guide on?

 

These ones:

 

Before:

 

After:

 

That's the only piece of timing cover I'm installing on the engine:

[kanurys]

Bump -> any answers to the above questions?

[beataru]

Clutch cover bolts.. 14-17nm

Flywheel bolts.. 69-75 nm

tranny to engine bolts, 46-54nm

Im still looking for the others but its hard to find.

[kanurys]

As I know.

 

Thanks for the numbers, though. That's great.

[beataru]

Clutch cover I would guess is the pressure plate, becasue there is no spec on mitchell that says otherwise.

[kanurys]

Does anyone have a diagram of the cruise control system on a hitachi carb vehicle as well as the electrical diagram? I'd like to study it and figure out how to adapt it for my weber. Also, the torque values for a D/R input shaft holder bolts (as above pic) on the front of the transmission?

 

Thanks again, beateru for the numbers you had.

[kanurys]

I figured out a few things:

 

When Cold:

The thermo vacuum switch bleeds air from the air cleaner into the egr and timing advance nodes of vacuum, effectively reducing the vacuum in those respective lines, keeping egr closed and 0 advance on the ignition timing. At these nodes supplying vac to the egr and distributor, the respective vac lines from thermo vac switch are t-ed in. Another effect of the air bleeding in is it leans out the air/fuel mixture a little while the choke is closed.

 

When Hot:

No air can flow in or out of any of the ports on the thermo vac switch and the egr valve sees vac signal when it's supposed to and the disty advance sees vac when it's supposed to. No air is bleeds into the intake or bypasses the throttle plate.

 

How did I do?

 

I always thought it was the other way around, the switch just cut off the vac supply. Instead it nullifies it. Cool.

 

Here's the vac switch all hooked up:

 

Above, you can see where the EGR is T-ed into the valve. Below, underneath everything you can see where the distributor advance is T-ed in to the valve.

 

I got fresh air from the hose that goes from the pcv system to the air cleaner:

 

Thanks for all the advice you guys threw my way.

 

 

Before:

 

 

After:

Edited September 12, 2010 by kanurys

[kanurys]

Interesting. The timing belts have been on for a day and they were a little loose when I checked them again, today. I guess the new belts stretched for their first time, while just sitting, stationary. I re-tensioned and will check back after run in.

[cmiller]

Looks good Sesh! Now drop that mutha in!!

[kanurys]

I cleaned up the routing of everything in the engine bay after I painted the battery corner. Pics are just of the sanding and fresh paint. It's still kind of a jungle in there. I pulled the tank vent line, capped the fuel return line, and stripped the wiring harness down the the factory oil pressure sender wire and the electric choke wire. Tonight I might install a copper oil gauge sender tube:

 

 

[kanurys]

I borrowed my neighbor's engine hoist and slung the 95hp beast in. Dry cranked it for a few and then gave it a little spark. It fired right up. Pics tomorrow...