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Nice I just noticed the weather forcast is not going to be raining today so time to do the brakes! I have no clue what the dealer is going to charge for a brake reservoir cap since I'm going to be drilling in the old one to make my cap for the pressure bleeder.

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1-3-2-4

I see you are CT local . Try Dan Perkins Subaru in Milford. Exit 35 on RT 95. AKA SubaruPartsForYou they will give you the online price as a walk-in. Ask for Anthony or John and mention this site.

 

Yeah I used to go to it all the time when I lived in Brideport.. it's a bit out of the way now but Anthony is great let me have one of the impreza model car in the display case for half off :)

 

I'm going to try Georgetown in Norwalk since that's where I work.. Anything but Subaru Stamford!

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Yeah I used to go to it all the time when I lived in Brideport.. it's a bit out of the way now but Anthony is great let me have one of the impreza model car in the display case for half off :)

 

I'm going to try Georgetown in Norwalk since that's where I work.. Anything but Subaru Stamford!

Bridgeport to Greenwich... whoaa... movin' on up:banana:

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Bridgeport to Greenwich... whoaa... movin' on up:banana:

 

 

LOL I hate it here really but I hated Bridgeport more too city like people here don't care if the light is red just run it anyways after it's been red for 3 seconds.....

 

Know any yards that Have Subaru's? I can't think of any In Fairfield county....

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Nice I just noticed the weather forcast is not going to be raining today so time to do the brakes! I have no clue what the dealer is going to charge for a brake reservoir cap since I'm going to be drilling in the old one to make my cap for the pressure bleeder.

 

you could always buy a plug for the hole when you buy the brass fitting for the pressure bleeder. after bleeding, unthread the nipple and thread in the plug. maybe hot better but you have to buy the nipple any way.

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yeah maybe I just wonder if it would leak..

 

Man I tried two dealers and they both said the same thing they would have to order it from NJ and it would not be here until next week..

 

tried two junk yards and nothing.. tried advance auto and auto zone and nothing...

 

SO as bad as I hate to do it I can't bleed the brakes at the time but I will do the pads and rotors.

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Well that sucks. You can bleed with the tires on, but it is a pain.. I suppose you could use the cap you have and then replace it once you get the new one?

 

My dealer down here (NJ) would have to order it too.. I called a yard by me and they have one, $10. Not sure what model/year, but I doubt they've changed.. Of course over-nighting it would prob cost the same as a new cap!

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you could reseal the cap once you're done with it if you're really pumped to do it now. wouldn't be hard to epoxy a piece of plastic back over top the cut out hole until you get another cap. not ideal but you could do it now if you wanted.

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A member here has a cap that he's going to send to me so I think I should be good..

 

I love my parts guy lol I had him look it up and he was like holy crap when he saw the price he was like that's unreal.. I was like I know :-|

 

and perfect timing.. my brake spoon has been found!! I did run out of brake cleaner.. now if I can just find my grease for the slide pins.

 

Going to be interesting when I take the pad off because it always felt like the driver front was dragging.. I would be driving and I'd smell hot pads and I would think well I did not see any hard braking up ahead.

 

As soon as I find the grease time to start.

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Help! SOMETHING is not right lubed caliper pins and all that got top bolt back in but the lowrt bolt wont go in at all the rotor is so tight it wont turn something is not right everything went so smoth up until this point.

 

Im on my mobile by the way.. I have tried for the past 30 min and no dice

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Help! SOMETHING is not right lubed caliper pins and all that got top bolt back in but the lowrt bolt wont go in at all the rotor is so tight it wont turn something is not right everything went so smoth up until this point.

 

Im on my mobile by the way.. I have tried for the past 30 min and no dice

sent PM with phone #

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suggestions:

 

double check that the new parts look to be the same as the old parts.

 

loosen the top and then tighten the bottom, then re-tighten the top.

 

back up and see if you can make it work using the old parts.

REMEMBER that if you decide to go with the old equipment, you have to pump up the brakes since you have pushed the piston back.

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Thanks brus brother about 5 min after I got off the phone with you the bolt finally started to go in. passgener side only took me about 30 min did not do the rear ran out of light and have work in the morning. Plus I need a air ratchet tooo tight in that area. I have pics on phone drivers rotor and pad is not a pretty picture.

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old pad and rotor (yikes)

 

b45b98bc.jpg

ab9ca522.jpg

 

The cap made of gold

 

f232446b.jpg

 

I think this was passenger side.. why is the wear on the pad like this? I noticed the slider pin was pretty much dry..

 

a0edcb65.jpg

 

 

Drivers side

 

2b8a10cf.jpg

 

air tools make it effortless

 

8f584511.jpg

 

Oh yeah I know it's not brake related but I found the two sounds.. first of all the passenger side wheel at first I thought it was a bad wheel bearing but it's the ball joint (did not do the passenger side yet) wow so much play in it that's where that popping sound is..

 

the other sound is from the driver's side CV joint since I'm new to this I had the front end raised should the axle connected to the transmission have up and down play?

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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In response to why the pad from pass side is shaped like that - what does the other pad from that wheel look like? I had same on mine but both pads off the same wheel were shaped the same but opposite if that makes sense when you put them together the backing plates were parallel. Turned out I had a siezed caliper pin and the other wasnt far behind. I have now taken to more regular investigation and greasing of the pins. Had the same occur on one of the back calipers too. Damn salty roads in the winter!

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the other pad for that caliper was fine.. had to be the pin because it was hard enough to get it out and when I did it was bone dry..

 

So glad I got that screw bottle of permatex caliper lube!

 

it's hard to tell if my brakes are spongy right now (seems to take more effort with ceramics) but it stops A little bit of the caliper grease got on the rotor face which I tried to clean it as best as I could

 

 

the bolts for the rear disc are a pain and I already broke one ratchet yesterday (head fell apart husky brand) so the rear's are on really tight.. I did hit it with PB blaster before giving up for the night around 10 pm

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