1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 I just came back from a quick bite to eat and I go and start the car and I'd say it took about 3 seconds of cranking before the car started.. a quick search here says the coolant temp sensor? I think the sensor is located right under the throttle body right? One thing I must ask is it really needed to drain the coolant out just to change the sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Has this happened before? Was it 3 seconds of continous cranking or 3 seconds, stop, then retry and the car fires up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 Has this happened before?Was it 3 seconds of continous cranking or 3 seconds, stop, then retry and the car fires up. No has not happened before but I've noticed in the last 48 hours it seems to take longer then normal.. Also it was 3 seconds continuous cranking It idles fine.. would live data from my scan reader tell me anything? Might not really matter much since I can almost see the outcome of this. One thing I have not really checked for is if it's worst when the car is cold or warm or the same when cold or hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 The hot or cold thing may not matter as they can get dead spots in them. If it was crank, stop, then start I would suspect the crank sensor. Now that we know it was cranking i would suspect the CTS. It is easy enough to replace and cheap. Normally I am not for suggesting throwing a part at something, but go ahead an see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 The hot or cold thing may not matter as they can get dead spots in them. If it was crank, stop, then start I would suspect the crank sensor. Now that we know it was cranking i would suspect the CTS. It is easy enough to replace and cheap. Normally I am not for suggesting throwing a part at something, but go ahead an see what happens. It's under the intake manifold right passenger side? I just know it's in a tight spot but what do I need to remove to get to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 I honestly do not remeber as I just do it. Someone will chime in. I never found it that hard to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 Uhmm the car has two coolant sensors right? One is the sender for the gauge and the other for the ECU? I ask because I'm seeing two parts one that is a blade connector and the other with a 2 pin plug in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 Read this and follow the links: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108631 Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 15, 2010 Author Share Posted August 15, 2010 yep I just ran into that thread I just ordered the part also I don't get any idle issues but I do want to see if this will clear up one thing is the erratic start/run/idle on a warm engine but that has been going on for like 9-10 months now.. only happens on a warm engine never cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 yep I just ran into that thread I just ordered the part also I don't get any idle issues but I do want to see if this will clear up one thing is the erratic start/run/idle on a warm engine but that has been going on for like 9-10 months now.. only happens on a warm engine never cold. It will help with the start issue, the running issue can be either but good chance it will solve those too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 It will help with the start issue, the running issue can be either but good chance it will solve those too. Well I will have to see when the part arrives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 18, 2010 Author Share Posted August 18, 2010 I think my sensor should be here tomorrow.. question.. does a sparkplug socket fit the sensor? i don't have a deep 19 mm socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 fine job from the USPS.... http://trkcnfrm1.smi.usps.com/PTSInternetWeb/InterLabelInquiry.do?strOrigTrackNum=91019314%209006%200063%207928%2075 mind you I got home at 9:30 AM and I've been home all day long...... No knock, no note, and no door bell ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 does anyone have the ohm values that the sensor should be at? I know one of the many threads someone posted some numbers but I forgot to copy and paste that and save into word. I just want to compare with the new senor here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 replaced.. painless except the thin rubber line from the passenger side intake header to what looks to be the fuel pressure regulator just snapped.. SO far it's good no erratic idle as soon as it's done starting.. will check out some more for a longer period of waiting with the car off instead of 5 min. replaced the Rad cap as well. Old sensor old cap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 Ok the verdict is.... No change... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 I know I replaced the CTS but I did not want to make another tread.. but as you know I said how the car kinda runs rough for like the first 20-30 seconds after a cold start or sitting for like an hour or so.. Well after moving my car out of a friend's driveway and checking out another car I got back into my car and I had to quicky jump in and pull off. I almost never do this by pulling off right away and never when it does that rough running when you give it gas. Anyways I went to pull off and I had such a hard time getting over 2,000 rpms and after it did the car "opened up" I can't think what on earth this is... I'm not sure what temp the oxygen sensor goes back into Open or closed loop but I was thinking of installing a A/F wideband just to see if it's running rich during that time. It seems like the colder it seems to get the rougher it will run if giving it gas after started but it goes always always after a few seconds. today would of been a perfect time to have a damn camera mounted in the car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 20, 2010 Author Share Posted September 20, 2010 hmm one person said could be the idle air control valve but I used seafoam on that before and it really did not help all that much.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now