SF Forester tranny into 95 legacy??

[superu]

Will a SF Forester transmission mate to a '95 legacy EJ22? I think it's 4.44 final drive (i know I'll have to change the rear diff too), but are the axle splines compatible from SF Fozzy to 95 legacy hubs?? I have a friend who almost put a 4.44 5MT into his '02 WRX, but there were axle spline differences meaning he'd have to swap his hubs and rotors, etc to make it work..

I wonder if this Fozzy gear box will give me those woes too or if would be a bolt on swap. I understand the bolt count from motor to tranny may be different (i.e. 4 bolt on my motor to a 6 or 8 bolt on the tranny) but those on my block should mate to some of those on the new tranny. . .

 

questions, comments, concerns, things to look out for or be aware of? ? ?

 

thanks!

-mark-

 

(eBay, checkit: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230509549984&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)

[Gloyale]

It will bolt up yes.

 

Forrester Axles should work fine. I think you're 95 Lego axles should still actually work with the 4.44 diff from Forrester or Outback (03+ are Vlsd)

 

Problem is in the wiring TCU's

 

The phase II trans has at least one more sensor, and a different valve body, etc....... so I would think you would need to wire in a Forrester (or outback or other pahse II) TCU.

 

But maybe just maybe you could get the Phase II tcu to run the new trans?

 

I wouldn't be the one to ask about making that happen, the configurationsare too different.

 

Maybe someone who understands the software end of things could do it.

 

 

 

Oh....and also the trans are different lengths so different driveline may be needed.

[Numbchux]

I have a friend who almost put a 4.44 5MT into his '02 WRX, but there were axle spline differences meaning he'd have to swap his hubs and rotors, etc to make it work..

 

Just thought I'd start with....nope. There is an axle combination that would work for any 4.444 5MT I know of to work with BD WRX track width and hubs. heck, even the narrower non-BD-sedan axles work, as the track width is still within the usable travel of the inner joint.

 

 

 

I'm assuming you're talking about a 5MT. not a 4EAT.

 

what year is the transmission? There was some point around 2000 where they switched to an 8-bolt bellhousing. the only challenge that this would pose, is the newer transmission bellhousing would have a hole for the lower starter bolt (actually threads into the engine) instead of a stud. this leaves 2 options. run the starter with just the top bolt (works, not ideal but not terrible either), or tap some threads into the transmission case, and put a bolt in it.

 

if there are male stubs sticking out of the transmission, and it's not a '93-'94 FWD impreza 5MT or EA, they have the same spline count. period. they didn't go to female splines until 2003 IIRC.

 

shift linkage, driveshaft, and crossmember should be virtually identical and easily interchangeable.

 

again, depending on the year, the forester transmission might have a speed sensor on the trans instead of the dash. if so, just unscrew the sensor, and thread in your cable. done.

 

 

 

 

The ONLY issue you might have, is the clutch setup. if it was a 2.5 forester, it will have a hydraulic clutch, although (again....depending on the year. Seriously, crucial piece of information. Chassis code is not enough) even if it is, it should still be a push-type, in which case, move the pivot ball, and swap the fork, and you should be fine.

[superu]

Hmmm. So leggos yes, but COMPLICATED leggos.

This tranny was actually an eBay tranny from australia (dual range)... so not so easy to make happen, particularly if i need to pull thisses and thants from the donor car...

 

As (I think both of) you guys may know, I'm trying to get an OB geared 4.11 final dual range AWD (with a useful low gear, either 1.44:1 of ideally 1.59:1).

 

 

I'm trying to do it the easiest plau and play way without having to gut and swap out from like 3 transmissions to make one... If i got a liberty box from down under and swapped out the front diff from a US OB for 4.11, then swapped out the low gear from a US EA82, i'd end up with a 4.11 1.59:1 low 5MT, but using 3 boxes to do it... I think there are forester down under that are 4.11 final with 1.44:1 low, but they may be XTs, and therefore as you say a difference in hydraulic vs. cable clutches and TCU issues...

 

ARGE!!! I've toyed with an EA82 swap for a rear 4x4, but don't like the 3.90 final.. Althogh the rest of the gears are a bit different from my 95 5MT AWD, so the start up may be different, i just don't like the FWD part of daily driving... AND i think i'd prefer the 4.11 final. . . bu there are other issues, questions with that reality..

 

Hmm, so it looks like i might do better getting an aussie forester box with the 1.19:1 low and swap that out for a 1.59:1?? But i guess that depends if the rest of the gears and final are better setup for a taller tire (like i think they came, 215-60-16) as with a 4.11 final. . .

I wonder if a forester (non XT) would be 4.11 but with the 1.19:1.

That way I'd just need that box and an EA82?

 

 

Hmmmm, more research to do i thinks...

 

I REALLY wish I lived closer to more you USMB gear-heads/wrenches and could brainstorm an pool knowledge bases easier!!

 

So in your opinions, what would be the easiets, most relaible way to get a FT AWD, D/R with 4.11 final and a decent low gear (like 1.44:1 or 1.59:1)? I realize this is going to take knolwedge from australian or european gear boxes as well...

[Gloyale]

sorry to throw you off.

 

Talk of TCU chages is relative to Autos. I thought you were talking about trying to use a 4.44 auto.

 

....with the 5mt should be no problems.

[superu]

Right TCU for auto. I had another thread asking about swapping a 4EAT into this rig...

 

I get you about MT for MT not having those wiring issues, BUT depending on MY of donor car, there might still be some other issues? Or is a MT a MT year independent?

 

Would there be a mY i wouldn't want to go newer of?

 

ALSO, these other posts got me thinking about the clutch issue. there's the hydraulic vs. cable clutch issue... I have a cable clutch in my rig, so what would happen if i got a tranny from a hyrdaulically operated clutch? Is there a fast and simple way to determine this, e.g. newer than 03 was hydraulic, etc?

OR are they not that easy to tease apart cable vs. hydraulic operated trannies?

[Numbchux]

the only other little parts you might need are from your car. look at my list again, clutch fork, speedo cable, shift linkage, crossmembers. You'd use all your Legacy stuff. Just have to fab something for the hi-lo shifter.

 

 

 

there are 2 different style hydraulic-clutches. a push-type, and a pull-type.

 

push-type works almost identically to the cable-style (in fact, the clutch kits are interchangeable). But, the pivot ball is in a slightly different place (less leverage for the hydraulic system), and there's a slave cylinder on the other end of the fork instead of a cable.

 

These transmissions have the mount for the other pivot ball in it. It's just as easy as removing the old ball, and moving it to the other hole. and then grabbing a cable clutch fork, and bolting the cable mount to the side of the case.

 

AFAIK. it's fairly easy. N/A 2.2 or smaller are all cable. 2.5 N/As are hydraulic push. and turbos are pull. But if you get the code off the bellhousing, you might be able to look it up. Here's a chart that lists push and pull seperately:

http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart

 

 

After 2003 or so, depending on the chassis (foresters were 03, imprezas/legacies 05). The 5MTs went to female splines on the front diff.

 

2003 WRX front axle:

 

2005 WRX front axle:

 

There are removable stubs available from subaru for a reasonable price that snap into these transmissions like a 4EAT and give them male splines just like an older setup. so your axles will work.

 

 

 

the plugs for the reverse and neutral switch wiring didn't change almost at all over the years, so they might plug right in. if not, it's extremely easy to swap the sensors around while you've got the transmissions out.

 

 

 

your driveshaft will work with any AWD EJ transmission. not long ago there was talk about bringing a container of EJ D/Rs from NZ (?). He said they had a locking center diff. that was the first and only time I've heard of that, and he had no information....so I am only speculating. but if it's the EA FT4WD center diff, the transmission will be a bit shorter...so you'd probably need to add 2" to your driveshaft.