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Olnick, when you're pasting the address to the image where are you copying it from?

 

The wrong places, I guess!!!

 

Let me try once more--this time I know it's the address where I originally found the image.

 

coolant-flow-diagram.gif

 

And if this doesn't work I'm going to go soak my head in the ocean. (Hmmm, that sounds like a good idea anyway!)

 

Edit: Ohhhhh, it worked! Thanks johnc and Speedbuggy. Now can I go to the beach?

Edited by Olnick
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Looks like you got it. For future reference there is a shortcut button. It's the yellow icon with what looks like mountains on it and a stamp in the corner.

The one right next to it does quotes. :grin:

 

Thanks, fairtax. Yeah, got it . . . finally!!! Tomorrow--quotes? :eek:

 

I actually tried that button but couldn't see anything showing up in the message. And if I can't see something I don't trust that it's there (guess my mind is wired for WYSIWYG!)

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Looks like you got it. For future reference there is a shortcut button. It's the yellow icon with what looks like mountains on it and a stamp in the corner.

The one right next to it does quotes. :grin:

 

hey, anybody can do it the easy way, it takes real talent to do it the hard way.

 

the story of my life.

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When the thermostat is closed, there is still flow through the heater core and throttle body/idle air control bypasses. There is always flow through these channels. When the thermostat opens, then it also allows flow through the radiator. Yes deadheading the water pump is very bad as it will usually lead to cavitation from the pump operating well outside its curve.

 

Now on a sandrail you probably have no heater core I am guessing, and they may not have the coolant flowing through the throttle body either since you really only need that for cool weather operation. So if it has these bypasses plugged, then you do not want to put in a thermostat.

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When the thermostat is closed, there is still flow through the heater core and throttle body/idle air control bypasses. There is always flow through these channels. When the thermostat opens, then it also allows flow through the radiator. Yes deadheading the water pump is very bad as it will usually lead to cavitation from the pump operating well outside its curve.

 

Now on a sandrail you probably have no heater core I am guessing, and they may not have the coolant flowing through the throttle body either since you really only need that for cool weather operation. So if it has these bypasses plugged, then you do not want to put in a thermostat.

 

Actually, mine isn't a sandrail and does in fact have a (albeit small) heater core. It doesn't go through the throttle body, but I won't be driving this below 50F or so, so that shouldn't' be an issue. It also currently doesn't go through the turbo but I'm thinking about routing a line through it as well (off of the same line going through the heater core). Any thoughts on that?

 

ManxterAtTheLocalAirport.jpg

 

100_3028.JPG

Edited by Speedbuggy
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Does the turbo have connections for cooling water? That is one nice looking sandrail! It looks like it belongs in car shows moreso than being beaten on out on the dunes. But it must be fun.

 

I am guessing that is one loud sweet sounding puppy how the exhaust just goes straight out of the turbo like that!

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Does the turbo have connections for cooling water? That is one nice looking sandrail! It looks like it belongs in car shows moreso than being beaten on out on the dunes. But it must be fun.

 

I am guessing that is one loud sweet sounding puppy how the exhaust just goes straight out of the turbo like that!

 

Yeah, it has hookups for water cooling, but they're plugged currently. Thanks for the compliments. Like I said though, it's not a sandrail, it's strictly a street buggy! As for the noise level it's not nearly as loud as you'd think thanks to the turbo and a couple of baffles in that little stub of a pipe.

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Sounds good. Say do you have any video of her running, that would be neat to see.

 

That's odd they would have not connected the plumbing for the turbo coolant. Maybe they figured it would not be in boost very much so it wouldn't need to be connected. Surely wouldn't want the turbo to melt down during spirited runs. Or maybe they figure it gets a fair amount of airflow over it where it's at.

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haha that sounds like NY. In NY I'm not sure that could even be registered for on-road use since it has no emissions equipment. But NY is funny like that. We in NY are trying to outdo Calif. from what I can tell.

 

I'll bet that BOV sounds really cool when she lets loose.

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haha that sounds like NY. In NY I'm not sure that could even be registered for on-road use since it has no emissions equipment. But NY is funny like that. We in NY are trying to outdo Calif. from what I can tell.

 

I'll bet that BOV sounds really cool when she lets loose.

 

Oh yeah, I love the sound of this engine and I love hearing the turbo wined up!

 

The only reason I can get away with the emissions is because it's getting titled as a "specially constructed vehicle" (ie. a Kit Car) and cars with these special titles don't need to pass emissions.

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  • 11 months later...

Thread resurrection!

 

I'm still trying to fine tune my cooling setup and get the heater working properly. In a normal Subaru, if there' always coolant flowing through the heater core, how is the temperature of the air coming out of the heater ducts regulated (ie. what does turning the temperature control knob do)?

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It's done by a flap in the air duct box. It mixes hot air flowing from the core with cool air from another source. The temperature changes depending on how far the flap is opened.

But you could just install a valve in the hose to the core to control coolant flow through the core.

 

BTW that car is SWEET! :headbang:

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It's done by a flap in the air duct box. It mixes hot air flowing from the core with cool air from another source. The temperature changes depending on how far the flap is opened.

But you could just install a valve in the hose to the core to control coolant flow through the core.

 

BTW that car is SWEET! :headbang:

 

Thanks.. Any idea where I could find such a valve?

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That's the tough question. I think you would be better off with a cable actuated valve, but I'm not entirely sure where you would find one.

Plenty of cars these days use electric operated valves to change flow rates through dual heater cores so you can have dual climate zones. The problem there is you then have to have some sort of electric device to operate the valve. And they're not as simple as using a potentiometer to limit voltage. The ones I'm thinking of typically work on a pulsed voltage to open or close the valve in small increments.

 

What sort of air distribution system does that thing have? If any? If it has some air flaps on the heater core you could maybe go with a simple vacuum or even electric operated valve that could be either on or off. I seem to remember seeing those used in some older Ford and GM cars. This is the sort of thing that you may be best to spend a day at a junkyard scouring every car you come across for a heater control valve, and take a few home to figure out how they work and see what sort of system you can come up with to utilize it.

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That's the tough question. I think you would be better off with a cable actuated valve, but I'm not entirely sure where you would find one.

Plenty of cars these days use electric operated valves to change flow rates through dual heater cores so you can have dual climate zones. The problem there is you then have to have some sort of electric device to operate the valve. And they're not as simple as using a potentiometer to limit voltage. The ones I'm thinking of typically work on a pulsed voltage to open or close the valve in small increments.

 

What sort of air distribution system does that thing have? If any? If it has some air flaps on the heater core you could maybe go with a simple vacuum or even electric operated valve that could be either on or off. I seem to remember seeing those used in some older Ford and GM cars. This is the sort of thing that you may be best to spend a day at a junkyard scouring every car you come across for a heater control valve, and take a few home to figure out how they work and see what sort of system you can come up with to utilize it.

 

Thanks.. Spending a day in the junkyard sounds like a great idea to me!

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