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bleeding brakes

Featured Replies

Has anyone used a mityvac for this? I would do the motive power bleeder but they don't have any local and I need to do my brakes this weekend.

I've used a Vacula, which is the same thing pretty much. Either works just fine. But neither is necessary. You can do it easy enough with a one man bleeder kit, or just a section of clear plastic hose. The stupid little bottle they give you with those kits is useless IMO.

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I've used a Vacula, which is the same thing pretty much. Either works just fine. But neither is necessary. You can do it easy enough with a one man bleeder kit, or just a section of clear plastic hose. The stupid little bottle they give you with those kits is useless IMO.

I brought one of those cheap one man kits (the one with the tiny rump roast bottle and mag mount) it was a huge disaster.. I want to avoid that this time around.

Go to Ace and get a lawn sprayer and some air QD's. If you can get a spare MC Cap, drill a hole in it for the QD. Cheap Motive Flow bleeder.

I use a homemade vacuum bleeder and it works great. It makes it quite easy for one person to bleed the brakes. I also used it on one of my motorcycles which specifically said use of a vacuum bleeder was required.

That looks pretty good and an easy to build project. The vacuum bleed might be easier because you don't have to remove the master cylinder cap each time you need to top off the reservoir.

I built a vacuum bleeder once, and it worked well. But I found that I had to give the last squirt with pressure, the old-fashioned way, as the vacuum bleeder would suck air in around the bleed nipple/hose connection, so I was not sure if the air had bled or not.

 

It worked great on a Chevy Vega that would not bleed the normal way, for some strange reason. It would give two squirts, then the new MC would stop working. No idea why.

Yes depending on your bleeder it may suck a bit of air around the threads. I put silicone grease around the bleeder while bleeding and smoosh it around a bit until the bubbles stop. It is sufficient to keep air from getting in around the threads.

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that explains why I saw a youtube video of a guy putting that stuff on the bleeder screw at first I was thinking like wow that looks messy!

 

How much brake fluid do I need? is 32 oz enough (one bottle) or do I need a 2nd bottle?

Edited by 1-3-2-4

It's not too messy. I just wear the harbor freight nitrile gloves while I'm doing it and just wipe the bleeder with a rag when I'm done. With the vacuum bleeding then you have only one hose to monkey around with. If pressure bleeding, you still need to put a hose on the bleeder anyway.

 

Or what I did on one of the soobs was put speed bleeders in. On that one I don't have to mess with the silicone grease. I put them in before I built the vacuum bleeder.

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Ah fun times.. I drove all the way out to ace hardware in LI and only to find the same size compression sprayer cheaper at HD only 5 miles from my house..

 

anyways I got that and the tube but not the brake cap did not make it back in time.

Yes HD is going to beat Ace prices most of the time. For one HD is a huge conglomerate with corporate owned stores whereas most Ace stores are privately owned. I have noticed most things are cheaper at Lowes and HD than at Ace, but the Ace is closer to my house so it's more convenient for weekend runs.

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Oh well.. I did enjoy the drive and found some nice places to eat at for next weekend :)

 

sucks I wanted to get started today but rockauto split the order.. the rotors are coming from Buffalo, NY and wont be here until the 24th rear pads come today.

Parts coming from Buffalo hm that is interesting. That's one thing I didn't like about rockauto. If you order any number of parts it ends up shipping from like 5 different locations which really bumps the shipping cost up.

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Parts coming from Buffalo hm that is interesting. That's one thing I didn't like about rockauto. If you order any number of parts it ends up shipping from like 5 different locations which really bumps the shipping cost up.

 

yeah I noticed that too when I made my first large order from them.. came from 3 locations.

 

I wonder if they do it on purpose?

 

 

Oh and the brake bleeding process is in what order I forgot where I saw but it says start at the right front wheel? But where do you go after that?

 

yeah found it here at scooby mods

 

http://www.scoobymods.com/bleeding-brakes-t182.html

sweet my rear pads just arrived.

Edited by 1-3-2-4

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ugh anyone know the price from the dealer for the Master Cylinder brake cap? I left a message and they never got back to me..

 

Or if anyone know another cheaper cap that would fit.. it's going to get drilled anyways so cheaper the better.

start at the right front wheel? But where do you go after that?

 

RF

LR

LF

RR

 

the thing I like about motive is the pressure gauge, works great for me at 6 psi or so, dry bottle, but if you can make your own from a spray bottle, that's gonna beat the motive price.

ugh anyone know the price from the dealer for the Master Cylinder brake cap? I left a message and they never got back to me..

 

Or if anyone know another cheaper cap that would fit.. it's going to get drilled anyways so cheaper the better.

 

Junkyard. Or jack one off the next Subaru you see with the windows open. :lol:

Jk, don't do that. That would be a wongleflute move.

  • Author
Junkyard. Or jack one off the next Subaru you see with the windows open. :lol:

Jk, don't do that. That would be a wongleflute move.

No junk yards near me I'm sure the dealer wants like $100 for one :rolleyes:

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15 psi should be enough pressure for at least 1 or 2 wheels right? 20 sounds crazy high.

 

I might have to wait until friday it's going to be too wet to work out in the yard and with all those trees shaking water all over me.

That should be plenty. To think of it in reverse, when using the vacuum method, if you are pulling a strong vacuum then atmospheric pressure of about 14psia is pushing the fluid out the bleeder. So using 10-15psig to pressure bleed seems reasonable.

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