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taking the plunge -OB struts on Lego... BUT?


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My pic -a -part yard is shy on Outbacks. I had to settle on struts off a 98 model.

 

I've searched and read but haven't found a definitive answer:

Will these 98 OB struts bolt right into my 95 Lego?

 

Some hammering and hole drilling required?

 

Am I going to need to return for other suspension peices to make these work right? -I've perused so many threads I don't recall the detail but some swaps get into altered geometry and sway bars or trailing links have to swap also?

 

I know about the required alignment, and will watch out for the camber? bolts on the fronts.

 

And I had not seen this before but I just read a mention that there are lift blocks on the Outback? It would be another project but these sound they're offer a little more lift to the body?

 

Thx for any help.

 

 

PS -will the 98 OB front bumper with the BIG fog lights fit my 95 Lego?

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AFAIK the struts should bolt right on, but you want to get an alignment done afterwards.

 

The bumper should fit but you might want to take the brackets as well just to be sure. I think you also need the grille for the outback. Seems to me it's a bit larger than the legacy grille.

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The struts should match up ok. If you have ABS the mounting points to the struts for the ABS sensor wires may be different, but zip ties are often used if that is the case.

 

Camber needs to be checked afterward which isn't too difficult. If you can't get the camber you want in the front, and/or if it is too far out of spec in the rear, then you may need to add fastcam bolts.

 

The Outback does have a body spacer that the Legacy doesn't. Whether it is worth the trouble of installing it I don't know.

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great. thx for the feedback

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20363AC211/

 

Reading the link above, the struts for the OB are good from 95 to mid 98... I'll have to check the vin on the donor car - it was marked as a 98. I took a pic of the vin with my cell; if it too crappy, I can get back to jy and get it for sure.

 

I won't be doing this before tomorrw, and then it'll just be the rears as a first goal.

Once I get those in place, the fronts will be a second phase. I'll prolly checkout tie rod ends and ball joints while I'm there.

 

edit: my pic was shaky but I was able to discern the model year and it was a '98 MY. gtg!

Edited by rainman19154
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I've put OB struts on my Legacy and the shop had no issues aligning it....if you note the front top bolt orientation, and put it back it'll be close, @ least it was in my case.

 

They are plug and play from a '98>>'95. The spacers aren't necessary, although they may gain you some lift....there are posts about it on here...somewhere.

 

The only 'issue' is the rear tires will be closer to the front of the rear fender's lip. I 'think' the locating/trailing arms need to be from an OB to fix that, but wasn't worth the trouble in my experience. I ran the 205/70R-15 (same as OB tires) w/out issue. Bigger tires will fit and there's more info on that here, too.

 

Also, you have either a 3.9 (5-speed) or 4.11 (AT) FD ratio in your '95, and w/the bigger tires you'll take a hit in performance, as the OB has a 4.44 (if it was an AT). I never noticed it, but if you do a lot of mountain driving, you might.

 

GL,

Td

Edited by wtdash
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I know I have a 4.11 but I didn't know the OB was different. I will definitely keep that in mind down the road.

Having said that, I am not planning on upping to a larger tire. Certainly not anytime soon.

The 2" body lift will be a start. If this project progresses, I may well return to the topic of tires/wheels, but I have lots to deal with before I get to that point.

 

 

I know my Lego is a rust monster, so those 19 mm bolts (socket size) on the struts are gonna be a good time. The fronts were especially tough on the donor car and it didn't show the rust mine has.

I went to Harbor Freight to look at their 3/4" drive sets, but they're 12 pt. doh! A better brand with 6 pt sockets is over $200 for a set.

Guess I'll have to find a tool store and just buy one socket... I have a basic T handle from back in the days of doing front axles on my old 2nd Gen wagons.

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I did this swap on my '96 Legacy and ran Outback size tires on it. The gearing difference is definitely noticeable to me. It is slower to take off and I find myself going into 3 and 2 manually many times to counteract. I was not able to get the rears to the camber I wanted without fastcam bolts. In the front I also needed a fastcam in the other bolt hole in addition to the stock camber bolt. Those 19mm headed nuts on the strut to bearing housing bolts are one area where a good impact wrench comes in very handy. Remember to spin the nut and not the bolt.

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The struts bolt in.

 

I suggest you get the rear trailing arm brackets from an outback, they center the rear wheels in the wheelwell.

 

The bumper bolts on.

 

I suggest you get the outback grille as well, the legacy one is shorter and will leave a gap between grille and bumper.

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Yep....they'll bolt right in.

 

It's the trailing arm mounting bracket that is different, and can be swapped for the outback one if you so desire. (works fine without, but if you swap then the wheel can drop a bit further a and it will be a little more centered in the wheel well)

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I did this swap on my '96 Legacy and ran Outback size tires on it. The gearing difference is definitely noticeable to me. It is slower to take off and I find myself going into 3 and 2 manually many times to counteract. I was not able to get the rears to the camber I wanted without fastcam bolts. In the front I also needed a fastcam in the other bolt hole in addition to the stock camber bolt. Those 19mm headed nuts on the strut to bearing housing bolts are one area where a good impact wrench comes in very handy. Remember to spin the nut and not the bolt.

 

- - -on the rear strut, did you use the Fastcam on the top or the bottom? I want everything in place when I take it in for the four wheel alignment.

 

Thx for all the feedback. I will post results once I've torn into this.

 

 

I ordered up four of the Fastcam bolts. It was an interesting search. Tire Rack wanted $20 each, plus a high shipping charge. Summit Racing had them in pairs for $24 and fairly cheap shipping. Summit ftw... and they accept Paypal; another plus.

And fwiw, they do match them to make and model. 14 mm is what they listed for the Lego... the same as someone else mentioned here at USMB.

Edited by rainman19154
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Yes I got the bolts from Summit as well. I buy a lot of stuff from them because they have great service and are 1 ups day away from me. I forget now whether I put the bolt in the top or the bottom on the rear. Somewhere I have a great link about how to use those bolts on a Subaru...if I can find it. Read the directions that come with them and play around with them a little to understand how they work. It's pretty simple but the tab on the washer has to be in the right position to get adjustment.

 

Here is my '96 rear after the swap (using Outback struts and king springs outback lift springs). Also has Outback size studless snow tires on it. I did not change the trailing arm. You can see the tire is very close the leading edge of the fender. These tires to do rub a lot in tight front turns.

 

rh1-md.jpg

ingalls-fastcam1.jpg

 

I do camber myself by getting the vehicle on the level garage floor, using a level, measuring, and calculating the arctan to get the angle. It's close enough for gov't work. I check the toe with the strings method.

 

This is a comparison with a stock height '94 Legacy:

comparison-rear-1-md.jpg

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I've known of Tire Rack for some time but never had reason to do business with them. Summit I've dealt with only once before but I know they are universally known and generally well respected.

 

Based on this one instance, Tire Rack really needs to look at their pricing. This order was less than $60 from Summit, and from Tire Rack it would have been well over $90.

 

 

 

Edit: Aug 28, 2010 good pricing and fed ex delivery two days later! Summit gets a thumbs up from me.

Edited by rainman19154
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I think Tirerack really sells many accessories just as a convenience for people who are already ordering tires and wheels. I don't think they're trying to be the lowest price out there on accessories. However they do have great prices on Valeo wipers, they're cheaper than many parts store wipers and for me they last around 3 years.

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