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1991 Loyale still won't start (electrical issues continued...)


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I had posted this recently in another members post and to bring it upfront I thought I would give it its very own posting.

 

I am having a similar issue with my 1991 Loyale-recently we installed a new starter and the car still wouldn't start, so then we noticed that the black fusible link was broken and luckily we had access to a replacement and switched that out. In March of this year I installed a new ignition switch believing this was the problem.

 

After switching out the black link--The car then started perfectly, I ran it for about a week or so perhaps maybe 100 miles, and yesterday I went to start it and it won't turn over. I have all of the dash lights come on, and hear the clicking of the fuel pump relay, however the car fails to start. We have gone around and around with these issues for almost a year now, the car has low miles about 80,000, yet the age seems to be its downfall. So far the car has a new battery, a new alternator, a replaced starter (however not new), a replaced fusible link (black), a new ignition switch, new battery cables, you name it-the part is probably relatively new.

 

Occasionally the car can be started by inserting a long screwdriver down into the gears of the flywheel and rotate the gear clockwise a notch or two and it seems the car tends to start right up. (however this isn't consistent nor is it practical for me to have to rig in order to drive and feel secure the car will start every time I shut the car down)

 

Where should we proceed next? I rely on the car for winter driving and would like to know this issue has been corrected by the first snowfall. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

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if you have experience using a dvom (volt meter) this is what to do. lets just start by me assuming here the engine is not turning over when you say wont start. step one set your dvom to d/c volts, step two black lead to neg battery terminal red lead to the large cable on the starter. if there is battery voltage continue on, if not there is a faulty connection or the pos battery cable is no good, battery voltage is 12.6 volts full battery charge. step three black lead to neg bat terminal, red lead to small wire on starter, turn ign to start pos, if there is batt voltage the starter is no good if there is no voltage there is a fault somwhere in the neutral safety switch the ignition switch fuses etc let me know how you make out if you get this far and find nothing post again ill think of some more things to check in the circuit good luck, if it is the starter get a new one and dont try this with a test light you have to use a dvom

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Add a fused power wire to the battery.

 

run that wire to a relay, and out of the relay to the starter.

 

Use the original starter wire to trigger the coil of the relay. You'll need to ground the other pole of the relay.

 

This will work.

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............ step three black lead to neg bat terminal, red lead to small wire on starter, turn ign to start pos, if there is batt voltage the starter is no good ...........

 

 

Don't listen to this. The starter is not bad, there just isn't enough amps.

 

It happens alot that there will be voltage when measured on that wire. But in practical application there isn't enough Amp capacity to actually run the starter.

 

See my above post about adding a relay.

 

Add the relay, and you'll never have this starting issue again.

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If by turning flywheel or flexplate the car then starts it's possible you have teeth on flexplate that are bad and binding the starter. If when it happens and you turn the flywheel it then starts as normal remove starter and inspect the teeth on the flexplate. my 2 cents

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