Inner Tie-Rod removal?

[TheLoyale]

How do I remove the inner tie-rod from the Steering box on a '95 Legacy? I slid the boot back enough to see where it joins, but how does it come off?

 

My chilton doesn't show it in detail.

[porcupine73]

Just get the inner tie rod tool from Harbor Freight, it's not too expensive and it makes it sooooo much easier. (As in you don't have to remove the rack from the vehicle to get the inner tie rod off). You need a new lock washer for the new inner tie rod end, and it isn't included with the tie rod end (at least not the genuine part).

 

http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/tie-rod-ends/

[porcupine73]

Oh, forgot to mention, I always loctite red the new inner tie rod ends. They're supposed to be good if tightened right but I have heard sometimes they will loosen. The lock washer will keep it from loosening very much but it can still loosen itself up. You're supposed to turn down this clearance adjusting screw on the rack before undoing the old tie rod end but I don't know, I never bother with that step.

[TheLoyale]

Alright, I will check out HF.

 

I think the MOOG one comes with everything, yeah?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=202535

[TheLoyale]

Here is what came up in HF, Its just a puller set? Thats no big deal we have that stuff.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-front-end-service-tool-set-66686.html

 

Or is it this?

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/inner-tie-rod-removal-set-96558.html

[porcupine73]

Yes it looks like the Moog one in that pic has a new lock washer and also a jam nut. The jam nut isn't absolutely necessary if the old one is in good shape but it is nice to have. The genuine Subaru part includes neither of those.

 

A 17mm or was it 19mm flare nut wrench is very nice when working with the jam nut since a regular wrench can tend to want to round it off. I apply a torch and kroil before working with it. If the cotter pin on the castle nut is rusty I just pound it with an impact wrench and shear the old cotter pin right off since it isn't going to come out if it's rusty anyway.

[porcupine73]

Yes it's that second link, the long tube looking thing with the bunch of clips. After separating the outer tie rod end then you put the right size clip over the inner tie rod end where it meets the rack, then slip the tube over the inner tie rod end until it clicks into the clip. Then a breaker bar will loosen up the old tie rod end.

 

Count the turns when removing the outer tie rod end. Then as long as the new inner tie rod end is identical you can thread the outer tie rod end back on the exact same number of turns and the toe should still be correct. In my experience the toe still needs adjusting one or two turns after the new inner tie rod end is installed, for some reason they don't seem to be quite identical.

[TheLoyale]

Ok, yeah the outer rod end and Castle nut comes out just fine (Had it off the hub in the past)

 

Looks like I'm gonna have to drop the UEL header on this EJ22 to get enough room to get to it. Its the driver side tie-rod.

 

Yes it looks like the Moog one in that pic has a new lock washer and also a jam nut. The jam nut isn't absolutely necessary if the old one is in good shape but it is nice to have. The genuine Subaru part includes neither of those.

 

A 17mm or was it 19mm flare nut wrench is very nice when working with the jam nut since a regular wrench can tend to want to round it off. I apply a torch and kroil before working with it. If the cotter pin on the castle nut is rusty I just pound it with an impact wrench and shear the old cotter pin right off since it isn't going to come out if it's rusty anyway.

[porcupine73]

Some silicone spray on the steering gear boot will help it pop right back onto the rack like buttah. I was struggling like crazy even though I had greased the lip thoroughly. Then nipper told me to try silicone spray. I couldn't believe the difference that might. What I spent 15 minutes horsing around with and couldn't get on all the way went on in 5 seconds with the silicone spray.

[TheLoyale]

Yep, I know about keeping track of the turns. but as you said it might still need to be adjusted with a laser anyhow to get it dead on.

 

Oh, so the inner rod screws into the steering box? Ok I see how that tool would work.

 

Yes it's that second link, the long tube looking thing with the bunch of clips. After separating the outer tie rod end then you put the right size clip over the inner tie rod end where it meets the rack, then slip the tube over the inner tie rod end until it clicks into the clip. Then a breaker bar will loosen up the old tie rod end.

 

Count the turns when removing the outer tie rod end. Then as long as the new inner tie rod end is identical you can thread the outer tie rod end back on the exact same number of turns and the toe should still be correct. In my experience the toe still needs adjusting one or two turns after the new inner tie rod end is installed, for some reason they don't seem to be quite identical.

[porcupine73]

Hm, possibly, I don't know. I've done the driver side on '96 Legacy and '00obw and didn't have to drop any parts of the exhaust. The HF tool fits right up in there no problem.

[porcupine73]

Yep, I know about keeping track of the turns. but as you said it might still need to be adjusted with a laser anyhow to get it dead on.

 

Oh, so the inner rod screws into the steering box? Ok I see how that tool would work.

 

Yes, the inner tie rod end screws into the rack. Then you hit the new lock washer with a chisel or similar tool so that it 'ears' into the slots on the end of the inner tie rod end so that it can't unthread itself (which would be bad of course). I just use the strings method to check the toe afterward. But if you have access to a rack that is probably easier.

[TheLoyale]

+1 to Silicon spray! It helps big time with rubber bits. I've spent many a time dicking around with stuff when all it needed was some spray to slide right on.

 

Just to get this right, that tool slides over the entire inner end (With outer end removed) then you just break the torque and remove. Well if so, then I wouldn't need to drop the header. Only reason I was saying is due to I run an Unequal Length Header on mine, and its all in the way of the steering box if you had to access it from underneath.

[TheLoyale]

Alright! Thanks for all the answers! I have never done anything with inner rod ends before so I wasn't sure how they came out.

 

I have heard of the string thing, doesn't that involve chalk string or something.

 

Thanks again!

 

-Tom

 

Yes, the inner tie rod end screws into the rack. Then you hit the new lock washer with a chisel or similar tool so that it 'ears' into the slots on the end of the inner tie rod end so that it can't unthread itself (which would be bad of course). I just use the strings method to check the toe afterward. But if you have access to a rack that is probably easier.

[porcupine73]

Right the tool slides over the inner tie rod end after you thread off the outer tie rod end. No access from underneath is needed, except what might be needed to fiddle with the steering rack boot. Oh edit: and possibly to bend over the ears on the new lock washer.

 

For the strings I use some sets of jackstands with thread, set exactly the same distance on each side measured from the ends of the axles. It's pretty close. I think I have some pics here http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/alignment/ Many people use that method at race tracks to check and adjust their toe so it can't be too bad a method. I have a white out mark on my steering columns for dead center on the steering wheel.

[TheLoyale]

OH I've heard/seen of that then, I will give that a try when I do this.

 

Thanks and cheers!

[TheLoyale]

Oh edit: and possibly to bend over the ears on the new lock washer.

 

Yeah, I at least have enough room to do that.

 

This is why I have to change my inner rod:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=949857&postcount=271

[bosango]

I recently replaced both inner tie rods on my '93 - man, they were floppy! The local O'Reilly auto parts rents the removal tool for free (well, you buy it and then they refund the full purchase price when you return it). I think other chains have similar programs with a pretty good assortment of tools that you might not be able to justify buying for a one-time use.