tracedog67 Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Fellers, Well saturday I finally replaced all 4 of my plugwires and 3 of my sparkplugs. That last plug in the rear on the driver's side was just about impossible down next to the frame so i left that one in for now. the instructions found here saying to remove the airbox, the washer reservoir and the battery box really made it much easier. When i pulled out the front plug on the driver's side the gap on the plug was practically nil so hopefully that is why i have been getting crappy mileage lately. Or possibly i hit the top of the plug when i pulled it out. I bought the cheapest wires ($38, i think) from BMA and they seem just fine so far. Went with the $4 per plug Autolite platinums because i couldn't find the NGKs anywhere here in northern Cincinnati. thanks all Tdog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myles Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Originally posted by tracedog67 Fellers, Well saturday I finally replaced all 4 of my plugwires and 3 of my sparkplugs. That last plug in the rear on the driver's side was just about impossible down next to the frame so i left that one in for now. the instructions found here saying to remove the airbox, the washer reservoir and the battery box really made it much easier. When i pulled out the front plug on the driver's side the gap on the plug was practically nil so hopefully that is why i have been getting crappy mileage lately. Or possibly i hit the top of the plug when i pulled it out. I bought the cheapest wires ($38, i think) from BMA and they seem just fine so far. Went with the $4 per plug Autolite platinums because i couldn't find the NGKs anywhere here in northern Cincinnati. thanks all Tdog Is this a DOHC 2.5? If so, I've read that it might be easier working from underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhrps Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 The back plug on the driver's side is a *itch to get out for sure, but I found a way that worked well indeed. I have a set of needle nosed pliers that are bent at a 45 degree angle. I closed the pliers, with the tips pointed away from the engine, around the plug rubber gaiter (not the wire!) and using 2 hands on the pliers was able to get it off quite easily. It worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hklaine Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 I just did the plugs and wires on my car tonight. HUGE difference. $2 NGK V-Groove plugs and good NGK wires. -Heikki Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuwan Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 I had a rally on the weekend and my car was suffering from horrible hesitation the night prior to the event. Anywhere between 3000 and 5500 rpm at beyond 50% throttle the car would buck and alternate between zero and full power. I re-gapped the plugs to a smaller gap and it did the trick, i think the car was running better than ever after. I made the gap 0.004" smaller, and i think the hesitation was due to the boost blowing out the spark. Currently using 0.040" gap, what does everyone else use? BTW: this is on a 92 legacy turbo running 15psi:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hklaine Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 I run .040 gap as well. Though I have an N/A 2.2. -Heikki Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now