1990 Turbo Information

[JLDT]

Hey all

 

I am looking at getting back to an older subaru. I have had a few, but got away from them for a while. I have finally cut back my fleet to one vehicle and would like to get something that I can fix when there is a problem to start rebuilding the fleet.

 

I have found one that seems like a good deal. It is a 1990 Turbo 5sp w/ hi/lo. Needs a battery and coolant hoses, I thought that before I go look at it I would ask what I should look for. I have never had a turbo before so I don't know what to look for on them. Also, I know that the newer turbo models have to be run on premium, is the same true of the old ones?

 

Thanks for any tips you might have.

 

Jordan

[Turbone]

All turbo cars should be run on premium.

As for the one you are looking at, I would base my decision on mileage and proof of maintenance. If it was well maintained, then I would consider buying it (if thats what you want). If the engine looks like it was neglected or not maintained on a regular basis, stay away.

[JLDT]

Thanks for the info. I have done a lot of work on these engine's (assuming that a 90 will still have an EA-82 in it) but never on a turbo version. Are they a whole lot more difficult to work on? Or more things that tend to go wrong? I have to drive about 30 min to look at this car if I think that it is worth it so I want as much information as I can get before I go. I don't want to go twice.. . .

 

Thanks again for the info - FYI he says it has 180k on it . . and not much else about it.

[Turbone]

Theres a lot more to go wrong with it. At the high a mileage, I would look at all the belts and hoses, mainly the hoses. With a turbo all the rubber gets baked under the hood. The cooling lines to the turbo are the most concern. You might get lucky and its had the heads redone, which could mean they are Gen 3 heads (less likely to have cracking issues). This will be stamped right next to the exhaust header underneath.

Again, make sure theres some kind of maintenance history. If you are unsure, back away (some will say run, lol)

[rpholz]

why does it need coolant hoses would be my question.

 

or is it like the radiator has a leak and coolant hoses sound better?

or are they just crunchy? if so what does the rad look like? and how much coolant is still effectivly flowing through it?

 

anything coolant related makes me question probly more than i should

[idosubaru]

read what turbone wrote again!

 

EA82 turbo's are much more of a gamble. more parts, more heat, headgaskets will blow quick with overheats. how often do you think cheap, worthless 80's turbo subaru's get great maintenance? rarely. and for all that downgrade in reliability and maintenance you get a pretty measily power increase, but of course you could play with that if you want and they are kind of fun to play with...but beware.

 

they're very similar to the EA82 in a lot of ways - nearly everything is the same with a few different parts to make an EA82 a turbo (pistons & cam profile). reseal sets are essentially all the same, timing belts, etc are all the same. same basic maintenances, the turbo bolts are really annoying to get to but hey it's just a few bolts.

 

they are far less reliable than the EA82, not even comparable actually, particularly at this age and mileage.

 

EA82 can make a great reliable daily driver if you can put up with it's other nuances...being 80's, etc. Get a cheap ebay timing kit for $60 and you're on your way to 50,000 reliable miles.

 

consider any early legacy's or impreza's? they're available cheap around here if you keep your eyes out, particularly if you can fix some minor things on them.

 

be sure to keep your eye out for GD's response, he has great ways of wording answers to questions like this!!!! POPCORN!

[GeneralDisorder]

Hehehe - funny man Gary above me already knows what my response will be..... RUN!

 

The EA82 Turbo is just a mess - if you want to buy it, here's what you need to do:

 

1. Have it taken to a shop with a sniffer and the oil and coolant checked for exhaust gasses. These engines blow head gaskets frequently if you even look at them cross-eyed without burbing the cooling system and offering some kind of animal sacrifice.

 

2. Assuming that checks out (maybe - but equal chance that it won't), you are still going to need to replace the head gaskets eventually as all the EA82's "chafe" on the head side of the gasket and end up with big gouges into the heads - usually in a semi-circle at the bottom of the fire rings. This eventually leads to failure. Usually somewhere around 200k to 250k in my experience.

 

3. The first thing you have to do if you decide to buy it is replace EVERY SINGLE coolant hose in the car and replace the radiator with a dual-core. There's quite a few hoses and some are hard to get to - this is a MUST with this engine as blowing a hose (which is likely with the age and mileage) is likely going to cost you the engine. Figure on spending about $200 at the dealer for the hoses and another $150 or so on a dual-core radiator for it.

 

4. New or rebuilt injectors and new fuel filter. The biggest source of pre-det on a turbo is a lean injector. This will kill it and quick - drives the EGT's up through the ceiling, burns valves, and will blow holes in pistons. I consider this a must on anything turbo-charged. Injectors should be swapped out at least every 100k to 150k just to be totally safe. I have seen injector problems burn valves on non-turbo engines - on a turbo it's the end of the line if that happens.

 

At the point at which you have replaced the head gaskets (heads resurfaced), all the hoses, the radiator, and of course the timing belt, tensioners and idler, front seals, pan gasket and valve cover gaskets, injectors, filters, etc.... you could be pretty safe to drive it daily (IMO). If all that sounds good to you then by all means - personally I think this engine is a total waste of time given that all that work nets you an extra ~20 HP. You could easily get all that with some cams and a Weber on the non-turbo engines.

 

It's my opinion that EA82T's are a good purchase only if the body is something really nice and exactly what you want AND you plan on doing an EJ22 swap either before the thing blows or when it does. They are time bombs and unless you do a LOT of work to insure everything is top-notch - they will get you in the end.

 

GD

[JLDT]

Thanks for all the thoughts.

 

I think that I will let this one on by - not that great of a price from what I could be getting into. I am looking for a more daily driver type for a few years and then later a toy - if the truck doesn't die on me.

 

I will just have to keep an eye out - usually see one a week out here on CL. Going to stick to the 80's though because if I do keep it a toy once I am done with it as a secondary vehicle, I want the 5-sp D/R. These EA-82's and chevy small blocks are about all I am confident to get all that deep into repair wise (probably because that is all I have ever really owned), and with my budget constraints as of late, I don't want to be needing a mechanic. Got rid of the late model honda before something happened because I didn't want to try to fix that myself.

 

Any how, no matter - thanks for all the information and advice and perhaps when I am looking for something to play around with turbo's on I'll pick one up. . . maybe.

[WoodsWagon]

90-94 legacy 2.2l turbos are much better built, and much more forgiving. Yes, you still have extra hoses and extra heat in the engine compartment that are inherent to turbo cars, but the ej22 is way sturdier, so if a hose does pop and the coolant starts spraying out, it won't blow gaskets or crack heads. I find the EJ's easier to work on than the EA82's. Heck, you don't even need to pull the valvecover off to take a head off.