jkd49336 Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 i bought a 96 legacy gt wagon with timing belt issues the toothed gear had a bad bearing i put another one on and retimed everything using old belt to see if it runs or needs valve work and it sounds like it is backwards in time is there a wrong way to line up all the marks with crank pully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 I believe if you get it wrong on a DOHC, your valve train is toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 (edited) is there a wrong way to line up all the marks with crank pully yes. what timing marks did you use? never use the arrows. check out the pics and articles below. > FOR TIMING BELT ARTICLES - CLICK HERE > great timing belt pictures - click here Edited September 3, 2010 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 > FOR TIMING BELT ARTICLES - CLICK HERE John, many EndWrench articles seem to no longer be accessible. One for the DOHC 2.5L that still can: http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 I believe if you get it wrong on a DOHC, your valve train is toast. Not really. As long as you get the valve timing within a tooth you are ok. One way to make toast.. get the timing belt more then a little off, but 180 is fine. Another is to get the cam synchro off and they hit each other. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkd49336 Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 i am pretty sure i used the right marks a single notch line at 12:00 on all cams and a double at 6:00 on bottom of upper cams,same mark on lowercams at 3 and 9,but what is making me wonder is when i turn over by hand my crank mark can be up and cams can be down untill another half revolution and then they are all right on again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 i am pretty sure i used the right marks a single notch line at 12:00 on all cams and a double at 6:00 on bottom of upper cams,same mark on lowercams at 3 and 9,but what is making me wonder is when i turn over by hand my crank mark can be up and cams can be down untill another half revolution and then they are all right on again This catches A LOT of people, even experts sometimes. Your belts off, check it again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 (edited) i am pretty sure i used the right marks a single notch line at 12:00 on all cams and a double at 6:00 on bottom of upper cams,same mark on lowercams at 3 and 9,but what is making me wonder is when i turn over by hand my crank mark can be up and cams can be down untill another half revolution and then they are all right on again i better go read some of my links. Edited September 3, 2010 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 Intake cams (top) have a notch that points up(12:00) and a double notch that points down. (6:00) Exhaust cams (bottom) have a notch that points at 3 o clock and a double notch that points at 12:00 Arrows on all cams will match and point at 1:30 or so. Crankshaft has a key way that points at 6:00 and a notch that points at 12:00. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkd49336 Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 are you 100 percent that all arrows should be at about 1 30 that would explain it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 (edited) It sounds like you used the correct marks, but read over the Endwrench article (OB99W's link in post #4 above) just to confirm. As far as the cam pulleys appearing to be "out of phase" every other turn, that's normal. Cams run at half the speed of the crank (that's why cam pulleys are twice as big as the crank sprocket.) If you lined everything up correctly to start with you should be okay. Hope that helps. Good luck. Edited September 3, 2010 by Olnick edit typo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 ugh, makes me not wanna do my belt myself, free beer for anyone who helps:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 Suba, don't get discouraged. Your EJ22 is a much simpler job than the EJ25! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 5, 2010 Share Posted September 5, 2010 i am pretty sure i used the right marks a single notch line at 12:00 on all cams and a double at 6:00 on bottom of upper cams,same mark on lowercams at 3 and 9,but what is making me wonder is when i turn over by hand my crank mark can be up and cams can be down untill another half revolution and then they are all right on again That sounds correct. Engine revolves twice as fast as cams......if it was one to one it would be a 2 stroke engine. I will bet you're motor bent valves when the belt pulley siezed. That is why you are hearing funny, out of time noises. Not out of time.....but no compression so it spins fast and sounds funny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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