Paint .. how to

[nipper]

This is not my forte. I have done the POR-15 thing.

 

I am going to sand and prime. The one spot that could use filler no one can see.

 

How do you blend new paint on top of old paint. The paint all matches. IE you fix a rust spot on the side of the car, now what?

[Seantheimpaler]

Krylon, flat black, brother!

[hatchsub]

Are we talking about spot painting with a rattle can? Or more fancy than that? You can get decent results with a rattle can if done correctly and in an area that is not too noticeable (IE the center of your hood lol).

 

What i do once the area is prepped and smooth and ready for paint is shoot it with about 2-3 light, even coats of primer. We are talking pretty light here on each just to get coverage. You dont need perfect coverage the first shot. Thats what the multiple coats are for. You should wait about 10-15 minutes between coats or until it flashes (loses its shin and turns dull).

 

Once that step is all done i start the paint. Are you planning on a base clear or are you going to do all mixed into one (single stage)? For this im going to assume your going to do base clear. The trick to the paint is to blend into the panel. The area that was repaired in other words will take more paint than the surrounding areas. When i fix an area, i am very lightly painting into other areas that i did not fix. So for example...i fixed a rusty rocker panel on subaru. I fixed maybe 4 inches of the rocker..but painted 10-12 inches. Only the first 4 got the brunt of the paint and the rest got a dusting. You keep it slow and steady over the area repaired and then speed up on the areas that dont need paint. Its just a trick of the eye...making the repair less noticeable. It also avoids sharp tape lines.

 

Once that is done shoot it with some clear (1-3 coats with the last one being slightly heavier but still not very heavy). If your really going all out wait for it to set up for a month or so then wet sand and buff. Not sure this is what you were looking for or not.

[nipper]

So you dont need to mask the primer either?

 

I have a spot on the rear fender by the door about as long as a dollar bill. i have other minor spots under the hood (not painging the arear under the battery), spots where the underbelly meet the body (not getting painted),

same on the other side that has gone through the first level of meatl (no one can see it) will get filled with bondo and painted to treated to protect it) and some other little spots.

 

i did the rear liftgate. There was a natural dividing line by the rear trim. The paint almost matched perfectly (need to use a white primer). After the first clear coat it was soso. After a month i did 2 more coast and it is almost perfect.

 

And i should lever be allowed to use a power buffer. i buffed the paint by hand it i felt much more confident.

 

After i get this done i can slowly move up on the list of larger areas (like the roof).

[GeneralDisorder]

Basically - my method (since I'm an amature) is to paint everything to a seam so I won't have to blend it.

 

After my last endevour using single stage - I think I would go with a base/clear solution next time. The issues with single stage aren't apparent at first glance but I can tell you that the reason they use a base/clear at most auto body shops is because the clear coat covers a MULTITUDE of sins . Especially when you get into metallics and semi-metallics like Subaru used on just about everything. . It's near impossible to get a single stage metallic to both lay-out flat AND not flake up like hammerite. It's all about temperature, gun settings, and all sorts of minutia that I couldn't freakin handle - not at $65 a quart anyway. .

 

Base/clear is the way to go - shoot the base on and blend it a little as Hatchsub sugests - then cover up the sin with the clear coat and buff it out so shiny that no one notices how bad the paint under it looks

 

GD

[nipper]

Basically - my method (since I'm an amature) is to paint everything to a seam so I won't have to blend it.

 

After my last endevour using single stage - I think I would go with a base/clear solution next time. The issues with single stage aren't apparent at first glance but I can tell you that the reason they use a base/clear at most auto body shops is because the clear coat covers a MULTITUDE of sins . Especially when you get into metallics and semi-metallics like Subaru used on just about everything. . It's near impossible to get a single stage metallic to both lay-out flat AND not flake up like hammerite. It's all about temperature, gun settings, and all sorts of minutia that I couldn't freakin handle - not at $65 a quart anyway. .

 

Base/clear is the way to go - shoot the base on and blend it a little as Hatchsub sugests - then cover up the sin with the clear coat and buff it out so shiny that no one notices how bad the paint under it looks

 

GD

 

I am doing base/clear.

 

In actuality with the Justy being a small car, the body panels are most likely easier to hide the belmishes on then the roof is. The roof does have natural seems (the drip rails) except A pillars.

 

The hatch top has no natural seems, but it bing broken from the roof may not be as scary as the curve of the hatch may help the optical illusin of the blend.

[hatchsub]

I dont usually mask just because it leaves a hard line. Yea i mask off farther up to keep any overspray from getting where i really dont want it but i dont make a hard line with my primer or paint. I blend both into the surrounding areas. Its also good that your using base, clear. I forgot to mention earlier that it is easier to make it look good at the end with the two stage. GD does make a good point about doing entire panels to avoid blending. Ive used this method as well with good results but in some places on the car its just not feasible to do so and blending is the only real solution. Im an amateur painter as well...but with the advantage that i a professional body man as a good friend .

[sl33py]

Not sure this is really much help... BUT i was looking at some painting videos on Eastwood's site. I think there is 4-5 DVD's w/ tips/tricks etc. It wasn't cheap, but might be worth looking online for a copy or torrent. Paintucation by Kevin Tetz.

 

Found it again - damn! $240 for the 7 DVD set. You might only need the one on painting which are 40ish.

 

HTH - GL!

 

rob

[nipper]

YAY

 

i painted. The first one due to the location i really screwed up. The 2nd spot, with a much larger area to work with (door) came out fairly well. Unless the light is just right you cant really tell where the old paint was and the new is!

 

 

nipper

[PHATBRAT]

Not to hijack the thread but I actually had a painting question. I recently bought a Graco 390 machine just because it was a hell of a deal. This is for painting houses etc but I was considering playing around with it for car/motorcycle parts. Yes, I know it's a different kind of paint and I may need to change the tip on the gun but other than that, it's just a matter of judgement, right?

Anyone that answers this please tell me if you do this professionally or as a hobby or whatever.

[hatchsub]

Not to hijack the thread but I actually had a painting question. I recently bought a Graco 390 machine just because it was a hell of a deal. This is for painting houses etc but I was considering playing around with it for car/motorcycle parts. Yes, I know it's a different kind of paint and I may need to change the tip on the gun but other than that, it's just a matter of judgement, right?

Anyone that answers this please tell me if you do this professionally or as a hobby or whatever.

 

Not the first person i have heard of to use a house painter to paint a car. Dont expect fantastic results out of it but you should be able to get a nice 10 footer from it if done right and wet sanded and buffed at the end. Here is a thread from my camaro/firebird board of someone who did the same thing. He mixed his paint 2:1 with mineral sprits to water it down for the gun.

 

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/auto-detailing-appearance/475199-my-budget-paint-job.html

[jboymechanic]

I have a friend that paints homes and uses the same equipment to paint vehicles, so it can be done. How well it will turn out, that is an entirely different question. I recall most of the cars he did ended up being "20 footers", but not bad for spraying them out in his drive way.

[idosubaru]

YAY

 

i painted. The first one due to the location i really screwed up. The 2nd spot, with a much larger area to work with (door) came out fairly well. Unless the light is just right you cant really tell where the old paint was and the new is!

 

 

nipper

 

nipper i'm getting ready to do some paint work as well. can you describe what you've done. think "8th grade" level here, (like you usually do when talking to me! ), i'm ignorant of paint.

 

i know it's not possible but i want quick and cheap.

 

did you use a gun and compressor or how did you apply it? how many coats?