Suba9792 Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 So I'm planning on lifting my legacy brighton wagon, I was told by many to use the struts and cross member spacers from an Outback or Forester to gain 2.5" more clearance is this true? because if so, I'm gonna go for it:banana: 2nd ?, I got a quote from a shop near my home for some engine work, I can do minor work and repairs but I dont trust myself to do any big jobs, they quoted me for the following- Timing belt/W new tensioners and sprocket and bearings cam and crank seals(front and rear for the crank) Water pump reseal the oil pump Head gaskets (have not blown but I have 140k so I would rather not risk it happening) new oil pan gasket new diff fluid front and rear total qoute $2,235.63 parts and labor they guy said he will warranty all his work for 100k more miles:banana: what do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 Head gasket on an EJ22? Unless you know something we don't know, it's probably not necessary. Oil pan gasket--are you positive it's leaking? Rear main crank seal, you're better off not touching it unless you know for sure it's bad. The rest of it you can do yourself with less than $200 in parts. Just my .02! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted September 4, 2010 Author Share Posted September 4, 2010 well, I was told that the 2.2 tend to blow around 160k, is this a myth? anyway I want to do the outback lift and such but I was wondering what parts do I need and how do you do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted September 4, 2010 Author Share Posted September 4, 2010 I also noticed on here that some of you recommend replacing the radiator and thermostat while I do the timing belt, should I do all new hoses as well? and what brand of radiator would be best to buy? I tend to get my parts from rockauto.com. I just want this beast to be 100% on top of its game since it is our only vehicle for the time being. I guess I will just do the timing belt and accesories, oil pump seal,cam seals,radiator,water pump,thermostat,hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted September 4, 2010 Author Share Posted September 4, 2010 So I checked RockAuto.com and total parts cost to do my big ole project is $673.00, its not bad since it does include all of the following - shipping Radiator Thermostat Thermostat housing and gasket Timing belt kit water pump water pump gasket oil pump seal cam seals W/ o-rings back up light switch (mine went out and yes its not the bulbs) and O2 sensors ( probably could wait on these) now to just find the stuff I need to lift it up a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 Sorry to sound like a downer, Suba, but it strikes me you're trying to overdo everything. Or you're getting some bum advice. For example, EJ22s have an excellent record with head gaskets. Sure they can fail but it happens very rarely. The EJ25 on the other hand has an extremely poor track record! New radiator--why? Is your old one leaking or are you having overheating problems? New thermostat, probably a good idea. But a thermostat housing--why? Is your old one bad? Seals and gaskets--personally I'd stick with Subaru OEM on all these. Also, get a new front crank seal. Oil pump seal is a process not an item--you'll need a new o-ring, Permatex Grey and maybe a dab of Loctite. Do a search and read up on it. New O2 sensor--you probably just need the front one. Check out the Bosch universal on Amazon, great price. Good luck with your project. And keep asking questions when in doubt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98obster Posted September 5, 2010 Share Posted September 5, 2010 So I'm planning on lifting my legacy brighton wagon, I was told by many to use the struts and cross member spacers from an Outback or Forester to gain 2.5" more clearance is this true? because if so, I'm gonna go for it:banana: 2nd ?, I got a quote from a shop near my home for some engine work, I can do minor work and repairs but I dont trust myself to do any big jobs, they quoted me for the following- Timing belt/W new tensioners and sprocket and bearings cam and crank seals(front and rear for the crank) Water pump reseal the oil pump Head gaskets (have not blown but I have 140k so I would rather not risk it happening) new oil pan gasket new diff fluid front and rear total qoute $2,235.63 parts and labor they guy said he will warranty all his work for 100k more miles:banana: what do you guys think? Well, if this will be the 3rd timing belt then checking seals, replacing WP, pulleys, tensioner, and reseal the oil pump. I wouldn't let anyone touch the diff fluid-DIY. If the valve cover gaskets are leaking you might get a quote on those and adjusting the valves while they're at it. Outback Sport struts/springs would a good stiffer OE replacement. I'm thinking OB or Forester stuff would have a different tophat config in the rear. pull the covers off the rears and measure and report back. Nothing else would be needed with OBS stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted September 5, 2010 Author Share Posted September 5, 2010 thanks for all the advice and info, I'm a bit of an extremist when it comes to my cars, I love them to run as well as they where at 0 miles(most of the time) so I do overkill sometimes, but your right I'll just stick with the basics. I dont think the 97 2.2s lifters can be adjusted, I thought they are hydraulic? I could be way off though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 '97 should have solid lifters. Not sure if the adjustment is the set screw type on that engine or the shim type. '96 was the last year for the hydraulic adjusters. The timing belt, water pump, seals, etc., all seems like reasonable work. If I'm remembering correctly that engine is interference so make sure the idlers get replaced too. I would pass on having the HG's done, that is going to add a lot to the cost and unless the job is done properly it might not even last as long as it would have if they were just left alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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