CHG light on gauge cluster?

[wisdomwrx]

Ok, so first of all what is the CHG light? Is it a Check Gauges light? Cause all the time I have to sit there and restart my brat because that light is the only light that will turn on and none of my gauges will work. So i keep restarting the car, by starting i mean only to the on position on the ignition switch, until the gauges work again. Any ideas on what could be causing it? I checked all the wiring and everything looked fine nothing loose and nothing frayed or broken.

[Gloyale]

That is the "Charging System" light.

 

IF it is lighting while the engine is running, you have a problem with the charging system. Usually it means the Alternator is going out......but sometimes can be a bad battery, bad connection, or both.

 

Definately get is checked out. Have the Alt and the Battery tested.

[GeneralDisorder]

The charge indicator lamp should be on anytime the engine is not running as the voltage difference between the battery and the alternator is 12v - that causes the charge indicator to be on.

 

It should be off while running.

 

Intermittant gauges could be the ignition switch - I have seen that. Usually none of the lighting systems will work either when that happens. Jiggleing the switch or turning on/off will often keep it at bay for a while but eventually you will need a new switch.

 

GD

[wisdomwrx]

The charge indicator lamp should be on anytime the engine is not running as the voltage difference between the battery and the alternator is 12v - that causes the charge indicator to be on.

 

It should be off while running.

 

Intermittant gauges could be the ignition switch - I have seen that. Usually none of the lighting systems will work either when that happens. Jiggleing the switch or turning on/off will often keep it at bay for a while but eventually you will need a new switch.

 

GD

 

Well I think you may be right. A couple questions though. If I hit the top of the dash sometimes it makes it come back on. And secondly will the ignition switch start the engine even if it has become bad?

 

Thanks

Ryan

[wisdomwrx]

Well since the battery and alternator are good I'm gunna go with either ignition switch or bad wiring to the dash.

 

 

Anyone know how to change/check the ignition switch? It looks like all the wiring to the switch is soldered into the switch.

[GeneralDisorder]

The switch is not serviceable - you replace it with a new one.

 

GD

[wisdomwrx]

I know it's not serviceable, but is there anyway to check it. Like find out if it's broken. And then lastly do you have to resolder the switch when you get a new one, or does it come with the wiring to the connector?

[GeneralDisorder]

You can check for continuity but if it's in intermittant problem..... and continuity doesn't indicate amp carrying capacity.

 

Yes they come with the wireing. No soldering is involved.

 

GD

[Cougar]

The ignition switch just makes simple connections to certain wires depending on the switch position. Check the voltage of the wires for all the positions.

 

I doubt you have a problem with the ignition switch since there would be numerious other problems if it was not working correctly. Your best bet for a bad connection is on the back side of the alternator.

[GeneralDisorder]

I doubt you have a problem with the ignition switch since there would be numerious other problems if it was not working correctly.

 

I was going off him saying that turning it off and back on numerous times will cure it..... I had a similar issue with my hatch where the ignition switch would hit a certain posistion that would allow the engine to run but not power the accesories - didn't have guages, wipers, radio, etc..... messing with the switch or turning it off and back on a couple times would usually help. I replaced the switch and haven't seen that behavior since.

 

I've noticed with older EA's that have a ton of miles (240k+ in my case), the ignition switch usually wants replaced as well as new code-cut keys made and the lock serviced. Really helps with a lot of strange issues and I've seen too many burnt ignition switch harnesses where wires shorted out, etc. I don't mess around with them anymore for the $32 price of a new one.

 

But as you say - it might be something else. Definitely check it with a MM before you replace it. I've also seen corrosion on the cluster PCB cause issues like this - since the individual gauges are bolted to the board and that mechanical connection can become a problem.

 

GD