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4EAT intermittent kickdown problems


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1998 Outback 2.5L

 

When cold, after sitting all night, the automatic transmission will always kickdown initially, but once the car comes up to temp (4-5 blocks) you can slam the pedal all you want and it won't usually kickdown.

 

I say usually because sometimes it works just fine, but usually not.

 

* Downshifting still works flawlessly with the shifter

* Performance seems fine

* No CELs

* AT Temp light just comes on normal at startup, then goes off

* Checked continuity on TPS and it was correct

* Checked TPS and MAF function on OBDII logger and they look to be reporting correctly

* Did 2 drain/fills, fluid looked perfect

 

HELP! This is driving me crazy!

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One thing I forgot to add:

 

Once it starts acting up, the trans also always upshifts around 2000-2400 rpm, you can use the throttle to push it up to 2400, but never above that..

 

The next day, when cool, it works just fine until it heats up again... and some days it will work just fine regardless of temp...

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IIRC there are a few different shift maps in the TCU, would have to maybe read up on those and see if any of them sounds like what you are describing, then see what might be making the TCU go into that particular shift map. The articles are in the archives on endwrench.com somewhere but I haven't erad them in a while. It would be for the 4EAT (not the phase II; they won't specifically say phase I I don't think though that's what we call it now that there has been a later phase).

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IIRC there are a few different shift maps in the TCU, would have to maybe read up on those and see if any of them sounds like what you are describing, then see what might be making the TCU go into that particular shift map. The articles are in the archives on endwrench.com somewhere but I haven't erad them in a while. It would be for the 4EAT (not the phase II; they won't specifically say phase I I don't think though that's what we call it now that there has been a later phase).

 

Thank you! I'll go searching now, if you happen to find it first let me know.

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Awesome, just read a good article that helped me understand a few things.. still, I can't wrap my head around what would be causing it though... most failures say they will light a code and that line pressure will go to a maximum, which should let it shift, just harshly... Shift solenoid #3 is said to control downshifts... but if that were bad, could I downshift manually still?

 

Fail Safe Components and Failure Results

If a speed sensor fails, the remaining sensor signal will

be used.

 

In case of throttle sensor failure, the idle contacts will

signal the throttle opening. Line pressure will go to

maximum at open throttle and it will go to minimum at

closed throttle.

 

Although the inhibitor switch may fail, the manual valve

will still be in the correct position for all selected ranges. In

P and N however, it may affect start-up, therefore, there is a

potential for a no-start condition. In Reverse, the TCU is

passive. Therefore, an inhibitor switch failure has no effect.

If multiple signals are seen in the forward ranges the

inhibitor switch is ignored and there is no fourth gear.

If the 1-HOLD switch is defective, the system operates

in the same manner as an inhibitor switch failure in the forward

ranges.

 

If the MANUAL switch is defective (Legacy only), the

transmission will shift normally in D position. It will operate

the same as an inhibitor switch failure when the selector

position 3 - 2 - 1.

 

If shift solenoids #1 or #2 malfunction, the TCU

deactivates the other. This results in either 3rd gear or

Reverse (when selected).

 

If duty solenoid A fails, line pressure goes to maximum.

 

If duty solenoid B fails, the torque converter lock-up

will not occur.

 

If shift solenoid #3 malfunctions, the overrunning

clutch is always ON and there will be engine braking

during deceleration.

 

If duty solenoid C should fail, the AWD control will

be set to maximum and the rear wheels will always

be powered.

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FINALLY! I reset the #14 (I think) fuse last night and today I got 16 flashes today! I never thought I'd be so excited about that... However, it only ever did it on one start... I assume that the code is still in memory despite only flashing the 16 flashes once and just getting a normal light every other time?

 

I pulled the diagnostic procedure and I can't seem to get it right, I have some questions...

 

daig.jpg

 

On steps 7 and 10, where it says "Turn Ignition switch to ON" does that mean to start the car? I'd assume it would just mean to turn to the ON position, but not start the car. However, in step 3 it says the same thing, then says to Drive at speeds greater than 12mph, which I assume means starting the car unless they want you to roll downhill... :) Any clarifications on how to do this?

 

Am I overthinking this? I can't get the code flashes to happen...

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Getting the code flashes on that era can be tricky. I don't think it means you have to start it in that one step. I know somewhere on here someone had a good thread about how to get it to flash out the codes. Almost like there was a mistake in that manual or there was a slightly easier way to get it to flash them out. The 16 flashes means it found some kind of fault; often it is a solenoid it is detecting problems with, and that can certainly cause some bad shifting.

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2 things:

 

the 16 flashes means there was a fault the LAST TIME the car was driven. if, when it's flashing, you turn off the car and start it again with out driving it you will / might clear the report. meaning, because you did not operate the trans there is no fault to report when you restart the car.

 

and on 95 - 99 cars you can read trans codes by shorting out pin #5 on the black connector, b82, under the dash at or near or to the right of the steering column. the b82 connector is a six pin connector.

Edited by johnceggleston
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Thank you! So I saw, "Trouble code retrieval is similar to previous models, except for grounding terminal # 5 of connector B82 a 6 pole black, right side of steering column. Trouble codes will be displayed through AT Temp light with the following differences. There are 14 possible trouble codes communicated from the TCU."

 

Does that mean I need to ground the connector AND do the secret TCM handshake of driving, switching gears, and shutting the car off and on in succession?

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