sspeed Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 1998 Outback 2.5L When cold, after sitting all night, the automatic transmission will always kickdown initially, but once the car comes up to temp (4-5 blocks) you can slam the pedal all you want and it won't usually kickdown. I say usually because sometimes it works just fine, but usually not. * Downshifting still works flawlessly with the shifter * Performance seems fine * No CELs * AT Temp light just comes on normal at startup, then goes off * Checked continuity on TPS and it was correct * Checked TPS and MAF function on OBDII logger and they look to be reporting correctly * Did 2 drain/fills, fluid looked perfect HELP! This is driving me crazy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sspeed Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 One thing I forgot to add: Once it starts acting up, the trans also always upshifts around 2000-2400 rpm, you can use the throttle to push it up to 2400, but never above that.. The next day, when cool, it works just fine until it heats up again... and some days it will work just fine regardless of temp... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 IIRC there are a few different shift maps in the TCU, would have to maybe read up on those and see if any of them sounds like what you are describing, then see what might be making the TCU go into that particular shift map. The articles are in the archives on endwrench.com somewhere but I haven't erad them in a while. It would be for the 4EAT (not the phase II; they won't specifically say phase I I don't think though that's what we call it now that there has been a later phase). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sspeed Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 IIRC there are a few different shift maps in the TCU, would have to maybe read up on those and see if any of them sounds like what you are describing, then see what might be making the TCU go into that particular shift map. The articles are in the archives on endwrench.com somewhere but I haven't erad them in a while. It would be for the 4EAT (not the phase II; they won't specifically say phase I I don't think though that's what we call it now that there has been a later phase). Thank you! I'll go searching now, if you happen to find it first let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 9, 2010 Share Posted September 9, 2010 Most of the articles are here: http://endwrench.com/archive/sysdrive.html They're all good reads for the Subaru enthusiast. Not sure if there will be anything in there that will explain your issue but it might be on of the maps/modes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sspeed Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 Awesome, just read a good article that helped me understand a few things.. still, I can't wrap my head around what would be causing it though... most failures say they will light a code and that line pressure will go to a maximum, which should let it shift, just harshly... Shift solenoid #3 is said to control downshifts... but if that were bad, could I downshift manually still? Fail Safe Components and Failure Results If a speed sensor fails, the remaining sensor signal will be used. In case of throttle sensor failure, the idle contacts will signal the throttle opening. Line pressure will go to maximum at open throttle and it will go to minimum at closed throttle. Although the inhibitor switch may fail, the manual valve will still be in the correct position for all selected ranges. In P and N however, it may affect start-up, therefore, there is a potential for a no-start condition. In Reverse, the TCU is passive. Therefore, an inhibitor switch failure has no effect. If multiple signals are seen in the forward ranges the inhibitor switch is ignored and there is no fourth gear. If the 1-HOLD switch is defective, the system operates in the same manner as an inhibitor switch failure in the forward ranges. If the MANUAL switch is defective (Legacy only), the transmission will shift normally in D position. It will operate the same as an inhibitor switch failure when the selector position 3 - 2 - 1. If shift solenoids #1 or #2 malfunction, the TCU deactivates the other. This results in either 3rd gear or Reverse (when selected). If duty solenoid A fails, line pressure goes to maximum. If duty solenoid B fails, the torque converter lock-up will not occur. If shift solenoid #3 malfunctions, the overrunning clutch is always ON and there will be engine braking during deceleration. If duty solenoid C should fail, the AWD control will be set to maximum and the rear wheels will always be powered. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sspeed Posted September 12, 2010 Author Share Posted September 12, 2010 FINALLY! I reset the #14 (I think) fuse last night and today I got 16 flashes today! I never thought I'd be so excited about that... However, it only ever did it on one start... I assume that the code is still in memory despite only flashing the 16 flashes once and just getting a normal light every other time? I pulled the diagnostic procedure and I can't seem to get it right, I have some questions... On steps 7 and 10, where it says "Turn Ignition switch to ON" does that mean to start the car? I'd assume it would just mean to turn to the ON position, but not start the car. However, in step 3 it says the same thing, then says to Drive at speeds greater than 12mph, which I assume means starting the car unless they want you to roll downhill... Any clarifications on how to do this? Am I overthinking this? I can't get the code flashes to happen... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 Getting the code flashes on that era can be tricky. I don't think it means you have to start it in that one step. I know somewhere on here someone had a good thread about how to get it to flash out the codes. Almost like there was a mistake in that manual or there was a slightly easier way to get it to flash them out. The 16 flashes means it found some kind of fault; often it is a solenoid it is detecting problems with, and that can certainly cause some bad shifting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sspeed Posted September 12, 2010 Author Share Posted September 12, 2010 Thank you, I've been searching like crazy and either don't know what terms to search for or I can't find it... I'll keep looking, if you find it before me let me know... Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 It seems like it was a post maybe a year ago by GeneralDisorder if I remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 (edited) 2 things: the 16 flashes means there was a fault the LAST TIME the car was driven. if, when it's flashing, you turn off the car and start it again with out driving it you will / might clear the report. meaning, because you did not operate the trans there is no fault to report when you restart the car. and on 95 - 99 cars you can read trans codes by shorting out pin #5 on the black connector, b82, under the dash at or near or to the right of the steering column. the b82 connector is a six pin connector. Edited September 12, 2010 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 Ah ok so maybe you don't need the fancy procedure, that might have been for earlier vehicles. I had these images in the library but I thought these were for the 4eat phase II: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sspeed Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 By "grounding" the connector, you mean plugging in those two leads shown in the picture and not jumpering it right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Those 'diagnosis' terminals are grounded so you can use those to 'ground' the required terminal. I thought the phase I 4eat's were different, since I think I had those diagrams for my '00 obw which is a phase II 4eat. Some other pins on there I think were for reading and resetting ABS codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=668867&postcount=5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sspeed Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=668867&postcount=5 Thank you! So I saw, "Trouble code retrieval is similar to previous models, except for grounding terminal # 5 of connector B82 a 6 pole black, right side of steering column. Trouble codes will be displayed through AT Temp light with the following differences. There are 14 possible trouble codes communicated from the TCU." Does that mean I need to ground the connector AND do the secret TCM handshake of driving, switching gears, and shutting the car off and on in succession? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Does that mean I need to ground the connector AND do the secret TCM handshake of driving, switching gears, and shutting the car off and on in succession? i don't think so, ground the connector and see. the "procedure" requires the manual button be pushed, you don't have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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