1-3-2-4 Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 anyone have experience with these people?http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/index.html Just type in MWE axles in google from what I understand the guy rebuilds OEM Subaru Axles (you send yours in as a core) Most everyone holds the MWE CV's in high regard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 17, 2010 Author Share Posted September 17, 2010 I guess this guy is shy I sent him the link twice so he was telling today at work how auto zone did not have the boots but advance did and he checked NAPA and they said why not just replace the whole axle. I'm still in favor of the boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 I guess this guy is shy I sent him the link twice so he was telling today at work how auto zone did not have the boots but advance did and he checked NAPA and they said why not just replace the whole axle. I'm still in favor of the boot. some times you just have to let go. at least you tried, hard. it's his car and he can spend his money anyway he wants. even if it is a mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 17, 2010 Author Share Posted September 17, 2010 some times you just have to let go. at least you tried, hard. it's his car and he can spend his money anyway he wants. even if it is a mistake. He did get the boots (I have to go pick them up) I'm looking in my haynes manual right now is it at all possible to remove the inner CV without having to take out the lower balljoint? I just have a pickle fork and that will kill it instant. Also the other question is the boot spreader they don't talk about this in the book and I guess I would need a snap ring remover to take the ring off that holds the cage in? The rest seems pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 (edited) Remove the pinch bolt for the ball joint and pull it free from the knuckle. Or if that's too rusty you can undo the bolts for the strut - mark them first though as they are the camber adjustment. As you surmised - pickle fork is a last resort and will destroy the ball joint boot. It is actually possible to replace the boots without even removing the axle from the hub side. Though on the EJ's this is usually so trivial that it's not an issue. No boot spreader needed, but you will need a pair of snap-ring pliers - the $3 one's from harbor frieght will work, etc. Here's a write-up I did on EA81 axles - the joint dissasembly is the same though so you can get an idea of how they come apart: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html GD Edited September 17, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 here at his house now does it matter which way I drive the pin out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 here at his house now does it matter which way I drive the pin out? most say it does, the opposite of the way it went in. but i have done it both ways, out of ignorance, with no ill effects. one side is dimpled, it should come out that way. 3/16 inch punch, no larger. you will regret using 1/4". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 yeah the punch I knew about and the pin I found out on my own by cleaning out the grime. is the tri pot going to be hard to get off? and is it needed to mark alignment marks on them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 yeah the punch I knew about and the pin I found out on my own by cleaning out the grime. is the tri pot going to be hard to get off? and is it needed to mark alignment marks on them? shouldn't be an issue on either count. if the inner boot is torn installing it in a different orientation might help and on the other side of the car will definitely help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 wow this is almost too easy..... I will swap the tri pot to the other side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 wow this is almost too easy..... I will swap the tri pot to the other side i was thinking the whole axle, but what ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 Drive the pin out from the non-fluted side of the axle, and drive it in the fluted side. I see why I messed up the /32 thing last time; my pin punch is 7/32" for this job. (Just replacing two axles on my '94 this weekend actually). The axle should slide right off the diff axle stub and out of the hub. If either doesn't it could be a bit of rust in there, then sometimes penetrating oil such as Kroil will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 the passenger side is a little harder because of the exhaust in the way I did get the cup off but figuring out how to get the spring clip off is going to be tricky my spring clip tool is a little big Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 What I did was put the spring punch tool inside a 3/8" deep socket, then used a 3/8" socket extensions to make the tool longer. Then you can drive it out from above or below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 well that was easy Home now took me a little longer because it was my first time.. I started at around 12 pm and was done around 5:35 I had a hard time putting the spring clips back on.. not so hard to take off I think I spent like almost 25 min each and the passenger side I had to be creative. went for a little drive and it was good. He took back those autozone axles any other work on the forester he's going to call me and glad I lugged my Air compressor with me plus I wanted to see if it would fit in the back seat anyways for when I do that 350 mile drive. the sucky part was I did not get to go to harbor Freight to get the spring clip tool so I had to go to Home Depot and they wanted $21 for the channel lock brand one which I thought was a big rip... pictures when I get back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 well that was easy Home now took me a little longer because it was my first time.. I started at around 12 pm and was done around 5:35 I had a hard time putting the spring clips back on.. not so hard to take off I think I spent like almost 25 min each and the passenger side I had to be creative. went for a little drive and it was good. He took back those autozone axles any other work on the forester he's going to call me and glad I lugged my Air compressor with me plus I wanted to see if it would fit in the back seat anyways for when I do that 350 mile drive. the sucky part was I did not get to go to harbor Freight to get the spring clip tool so I had to go to Home Depot and they wanted $21 for the channel lock brand one which I thought was a big rip... pictures when I get back. That's OK, just return it to HD with a big smile and a thank you very much:banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 That's OK, just return it to HD with a big smile and a thank you very much:banana: lol he paid me for the tool so I'm going to keep it.. just wish it was a tad smaller.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 That's great - sounds like he's all set. You can file on the pins of the tool and make it fit into the snap ring hole's better. Just make sure you give it a profile that's slightly wider at the end than at the base of the pin so the tendacy is for the clip to slide farther up the pin rather than off the end. It's possible to get the snap-ring's off with a couple screwdriver's and some patience - which is probably what I would have done to avoid buying an ill-fitting tool. But it's not easy. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 Pictures Before I took out anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainman19154 Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 good job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 (edited) I forgot to check to see how many miles were on the car but the wear was very little.. I still find it amazing that both outer boots are ok. I did tell him about that passenger side balljoint that started to ooze out.. i wished my car looked as clean as his did, hardly in rust This makes me want to do my own axles now but get them from MWE lol they want me to check out that black Nissan in the background that thing must have howling wheel bearings no way can the car me that loud driving at 20 MPH.. it's like a wurrling sound but not high in pitch but goes faster as you go faster.. I'm not too sure about FWD transaxles and Nissans all that much but I don't think it could be the transmission? It's got like 158K on it. Edited September 19, 2010 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now