replacing 06 legacy front pads

[ron2368]

I have been looking for some info on doing this job myself. Its been many years since I have done this and wanted to know if there are any special things to know. I am ok up to the taking the bottom caliper bolt out. Do the pads just drop out or are they clipped in, any cleaner or lube needed. Is there a simple step by step somewhere? thank you

[bstone]

The pads come out one you take the caliper bracket off. You might have to wiggle them a bit. Put the new pads in the same postiion as the old once. Don't forget to reset the piston with a C-Clamp.

[porcupine73]

If they are anything like the previous years, a pad swap is fairly straightfoward. After removing the lock pin, the caliper would slide up out of the way. Then the pads can be pulled out of the clips in the caliper bracket. The old pads usually come out without too much trouble but sometimes they need a little bit of prying. All contact points should have brake lube on them (except of course where the pad friction material contacts the rotor of course haha).

 

The caliper pistons might have to be compressed to make room for the new thicker pads. It may overflow the master cyl if the master is full so watch that. I like to open the bleeder when compressing the pistons so not to flush that nasty old fluid back up through the ABS hydraulic unit.

[ron2368]

Is the lock pin the bottom bolt that I remove to lift up the caliper to expose the pads?

 

If I loosen the bleed to release the piston is there possibility of getting air in the line? I have always avoided that bleed valve, scares me.

 

Does my car have any shims? I see one pad has a metal end piece that looks like a clip, I guess I will see where that goes when I take it out.

[bstone]

To the best of my knowledge, you never open the bleed to reset the piston.

 

Just take the pads off and then reset it with a C-Clamp.

[porcupine73]

Often the genuine pads have a shim with holes in it and then a solid shim over that. Yes you might get air in the system if you open the bleed valve. But the brake fluid should be replaced every couple years anyway to prevent it from corroding from the fluid soaking up moisture.

 

The lock pin is usually the bottom pin, then yes it lets the caliper swivel up on the guide pin. That way you don't necessarily have to remove the caliper bracket if just replacing the pads.

 

This is from a '96; the details are going to be different but if yours uses the lock pin/guide pin concept that should be similar:

[porcupine73]

Yes, you don't have to open the bleed valve when compressing the pistons, but if you don't, you are shoving the old nasty brake fluid back through the system, especially through the ABS hydraulic unit. By opening the bleed you can let that nasty fluid out instead of pushing it back up through. I believe Subaru mentions this somewhere......

[bstone]

If the fellow has no experience bleeding a brake system (especially doing it one-man), then I highly suggest he not try now. I have a one-man bleeder and am happy to do it, but it takes some experience and knowledge.

[porcupine73]

Sure if a person isn't comfortable in a particular step of vehicle service then they probably shouldn't attempt it. However if no one were ever willing to do a part of vehicle service for the first time none of us would be doing any of our own service.

[bstone]

Sure if a person isn't comfortable in a particular step of vehicle service then they probably shouldn't attempt it. However if no one were ever willing to do a part of vehicle service for the first time none of us would be doing any of our own service.

 

True but some folks are only comfortable up to a point. He's nervous about pads, which is a basic skill, so let's not tell him to bleed.

[porcupine73]

That's all cool. Just wanted to add to the thread that brake fluid replacement is listed on the Subaru maintenance schedules, so if it's never been done on the vehicle, it could be something to look into after the pad replacement.

[ron2368]

I am just being careful years ago I took the bolt out of a caliper on my 92 legacy and lifted it, the pads just fell out on the ground, I guess I put them back ok. Actually this car ( the 06) is gonig to the dealer for leaking rear diff, poor shifting trans and recently burning oil smell at engine ( all I can tell is there are occasional drips on the oil pan). Just happy I have ext warranty:banana:

[brus brother]

1. Loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap. Keep an eye on the fluid level and make sure it doesn't overflow while compressing the piston. If you haven't topped off the brake fluid between changing pads, you should have some room to play with.

2. Loosen and remove the lower bolt and swing the caliper up. You can use a bent coat hanger to hook onto the caliper and hook it to the suspension while you are working. Now that you have both hands free take a look at what you have before you.

3. Take off the outer and inner pad noting orientation and where the "squealer" is. The replacement pads may not have a "squealer". You may have to pry the pads a little.

4. Use a C-clamp to push the piston in to make room for the new and thicker pads. You can use an old pad to protect the piston if you want to be extra careful not to damage the piston with the clamp.

5. Place brake grease on the back of the new pad where it will contact the shim.

6. Place the new pads as you had removed the old ones.

6. Release and remove the coat hanger and slide the caliper down over the new pads. You may have to rotate the lower pin a little to align and get the caliper to close.

7. Check fluid level in reservoir and tighten cap.

Oh yeah, almost forgot, from my own book of mistakes, you will likely have used the c-clamp to push the piston in to make room for the new thicker pads now allowing for a little play so don't forget to pump the brakes up before you go tearing out of your driveway!

Edited September 15, 2010 by brus brother

[ron2368]

thank you all, one more thing

 

If I want to rotate tires I would need to have both tires off the ground to make life easy, since I have done it the very hard way already. Where can I place stand, I figure in the rear but where??

[mikec03]

Bump

 

I'm wondering about the stand location too. I see on a diy, that one person put the stand next to the jack on the rocker panel. But this area is not completely flat and makes me concerned that it might slip.

 

I'm doing the rears tomorrow and would appreciate advice.

[porcupine73]

If I had a jack stand and the original pantograph jack, I would use the pantograph jack in the designated location (usually there are two notches in the weld lip under there where it is reinforced to put the jack, then jack it up there, then put the jackstand as close as possible to that point, lower the pantograph jack, then move the pantograph jack to the rear.