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fixing oil leak


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ok, i called up Brian's Subaru, a local shop here in Burien, and talked with the owner, Brian, who i have known for a while.

 

since i got that oil leak on my wagon i wanted to see how much it would run ,me to replace everything.

 

he quoted me at $110 for valve covers, and $425 for a new timing belt, cam seals, o-ring, oil pump, main seals, basically everything that a subaru takes a leak from will be replaced.

 

so does $535 sound good, i dont have the time to do it myself, nor help from the weather.

 

Thanks,

Shean

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well heres what i just bought from importedcarparts.com

 

camshaft seal kit (2)

front and rear crankshaft seals

intake manifold gaskets (2)

oil drain plug gasket

oil pump gasket

oil pump seals (3)

t-belt tentioner springs (2)

both timing belts (Goodyear)

valve cover gasket set

water manifold gaskets (2)

water pump gasket

exhaust flange gasket

turbo outlet gasket

turbo inlet gasket(2)

pcv valve

upper and lower radiator hoses

thermostat gasket

water pipe o-ring

 

free shipping and was only $137.74

 

figure this is everything i need (minus the HG's) to reseal my entire ea82T plus some... it won't be leakin when i get it in me car..

 

i had a shop in oregon do the timing belts, oil pump, cam seals, crank seal, etc. everything on teh front of the engine for $300.. and this was on an XT6...

 

so me think the $425 is a bit high.. valve cover replacement doesn't sound too bad though..

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that sounds reasonable. but if you dont have time do do regular maintenance on your car how are you going to do the turbo swap?

 

how bad is your leak? have you tried to clean the motor and isolate the problem? might be good to do before spending a grip on somthing that might fix your leak.

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Originally posted by The Scooby

he quoted me at $110 for valve covers, and $425 for a new timing belt, cam seals, o-ring, oil pump, main seals, basically everything that a subaru takes a leak from will be replaced.

 

I'm assuming only the front crank seal, not the rear main seal.

 

I don't know turbo, but the timing cover gaskets sounds too high. I'd think that flat rate would be about an hour to do both sides (hey, put it on the rack, four nuts each side, bingo, then clean it all in the tank, etc.). OK, depending upon their markup on the gaskets, $110 is OK I suppose. It's not all that far off.

 

I see a lot of EA82s, ahem, through our place, and with a new NAPA water pump and reseal as you've described, $500 is not out of line. However, your guy isn't quoting a water pump, nor is he quoting timing belt tensioners or idler bearings for the idler.

 

Having done my own a couple of times now, I have to say it's not too bad to do the second or third time, esp if you have a rack to raise the car. But mine was cleaned pretty damned well before I started, so I wasn't fighting the oily parts issues that most are. For a one-shot deal, I can see where paying to have it done is desireable.

 

In the end, trusting the shop that does the work makes the difference between being willing to pay top dollar and bargain hunting.

 

Also be aware that one very common leak point not mentioned above is the o-rings for the camcase to head, shown on Cameron's page. This is a very common leakpoint, and there's some work involved in replacing those o-rings, esp. on the driver's side. Make sure to discuss this issue with your guy, so that you're not disappointed in the "leaks repair" if you still have one or two after $535 + tax.

 

The oil pump can also leak, both at the shaft seal and the "Mickey Mouse gasket". I haven't seen a lot of oil leaking from these, but other folks have. Just be aware of the issues when you start chasing oil leaks on the EA82.

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that was the other thing, they where gonna do work to the tentioner also, and a few otehr things, i cant remember it all right off hand.

 

i would do it, but when i do have time the weather is crap and when i dont, its sunny.

 

so it sucks for me.

 

Shean

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save the mechanic some work, pull the fan, if its not far to drive

 

maybe take off the outer covers, and have him re quote you

 

the cam covers you can fix yourself, you might as well start with that getting your hands dirty, and learning the SOOB.

 

buy the belts, as shops tend to charge rate on parts, a 10 dollar part would cost 15 dollars

 

i would say get all your seals separate, and offer 300 cash for the work, if you take it somewhare

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Originally posted by MilesFox

save the mechanic some work, pull the fan, if its not far to drive

 

maybe take off the outer covers, and have him re quote you

 

the cam covers you can fix yourself, you might as well start with that getting your hands dirty, and learning the SOOB.

 

buy the belts, as shops tend to charge rate on parts, a 10 dollar part would cost 15 dollars

 

i would say get all your seals separate, and offer 300 cash for the work, if you take it somewhare

 

well if i wait till i get my lisence then i can take it into my school auto schop, where my 3rd period is and do the work myself there with all the tools and such. also i get my student discount through Napa, so i can use that to my advantage on some of the parts.

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i think the price is okay, especially if it is "everything" on the front like you said. I did notice a new oil pump in your list too. you might talk to the mech about the cam case thing too. see if he'd go $575 to do both of those in there as well.

 

you would save money in the long run if you did all this stuff in class though. and if you did it in class, you could maybe swap in an SPFI short block and a weber, too :D

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you could save the mechanic work/price by keeping the existing tensioners, if the car runs right and doesnt have noises

 

a subaru is a good car to learn how to work on cars, they are different than what most mechanics are used to, but thay are simple in their own design, a straight forward functional car.

 

my first hands on job in auto class was a subaru alternator, a 3,door 5spd, maybe an RX. and back then i had no preoccupation with subaru, didnt know about them, funny how fate turns out!

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