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My 00 impreza, has a ATF OIL FLASHING NON-STOP. I had a bad ATF Sensor changed that and it came back on after 4 mths. My pervious transmission was doing the same thing and stopped shifting. at 40 mph I was at 5000-5500 RPM. So i bought a new transmission that was running fine in my friends impreza and Still have the ATF OIL FLASHING. Didn't do that on my friends impreza. I am totally stuck and clue less now. I am begin to think could it be a bad TCM.

 

Who ever had this problem please share what was replace or tweak, ect Wire shorts and where most common

 

BEFORE I HAD SWAPPED THE NEW TRANSMISSION I MICROSCOPED EVERY SINGLE WIRE AND CONNECTOR FOR BAD CORROSION, LOOSE WIRE, NOTHING IS FINE.

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NOTHING IS FINE.
once everything is fine, get back to us. :lol:

 

wow, that stinks. so you swapped transmissions and the problem came back? so i'd guess, as i think you are, it's external to the trans.

 

The TCU, TPS, and ECU are external but needed for the transmission control.

 

TCU seems likely, but i hate to tell you to throw parts at it like i tend to do! :lol: luckily they rarel fail so used is fine and they're cheap because there's no demand.

 

some early 2000 models had TPS issues that affected shifting - but i'm almost positive it was only the H6 models.

 

the ATF light is only supposed to flash 16 times at start up, but i believe when it flashes constantly that means something else. probably like don't drive it or something.

 

the transmission will default to 3rd gear mechanically (if the TCU is disconnected), so it very well may be that your old trans went to operating in purely mechanical mode?

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i found the the handshake procedure. No don't have a #14 fuse to unplug to clear the memory on the TCM. I have 2000 impreza.

 

read the linked thread below. do not clear the code until you have read it. drive the car till it flashes, ground out pin 5 on black connector, B82, under the dash (see link below) and watch for the flashing code.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81497&highlight=transcodes

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well i pulled a 8 long pulse 7 fast on the handshake. And went to autozone and read the code came back with 7 faults.

 

Theses are the same exact code before I bought my friends 89,000 miles trans. Traced back for the other two ground wire that was pic #12 There is none.

 

My question is how do I proceed if it is electrical input. I bought the Connector cleaner and sprayed down every single connection in the engine bay. No loose or bad connection.

 

Need big help

 

P1133- Front oxygen Sensor (AF) Heater circuit high input

P1116- torque control cut signal circuit low input

P0748- pressure Duty A

P1722- Trans Diagnosis input signal high input

P1510-Idle Air control Solenoid Signal 1 circuit Low

P1516- Idle air Solenoid Signal 4 circuit low

P1705-2-4 brake pressure solenoid Valve (Solenoid D) Circuit

Edited by 2000impreza
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That's a pretty good list. I don't have Subaru's list of DTCs for the 2000 Impreza. I have the FSM for a Legacy but some that you have don't turn up there.

 

The only one I can find significantly different is P1133 O2 Sensor heater circuit low.

 

Your best bet is to find a factory service manual for your car and start digging. There may be a lack of power to those circuits due to a bad ground or low voltage through a bad relay or connection somewhere. Without an FSM to tell you what and where to check, it's gonna be really hard to figure out.

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To me that list all happening together indicates likely a corrosion or wiring/harness issue. Especially the torque control cut signal circuit low input, that is just a wire from the TCU to the ECU so the TCU can tell the ECU it is about to shift, then the ECU retards timing momentarily to reduce torque during the shift. That's probably the one I would track down the wiring first. And if that wire and connections are good, the problem may in the TCU or possibly ECU itself.

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So far Resistance for this line is OL. torque control cut signal circuit low input.

 

1.) Switch on unplug Connector B135, Terminal 4

2.) B135, Terminal 4, Checking Volt = -.01

3.) B135, Terminal 4 resistance, Unplug TCM Connector. Measuring Resistance B135 #4 Terminal Chasiss Ground = "O.L"

 

Am I to run a whole new line if it is " OL " ????

 

Result on Manual: states, Check connection and ground, and connector.

 

1.) TCM and ECU Connector: Clean, and no damage or loose connector

 

I am LOST ON WHAT TO CHECK WHEN I FIDDLE WITH CONNECTION, WIRE, CONNECTOR. AND IT IS NORMAL.

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  • 3 weeks later...
It came back... What is going on. I'm confuse now.

 

i'm confused.

 

can you confirm that you replaced the trans computer or was it the ECU engine computer?

 

and i was surprised to read in your post #9 in this thread that autozone could read trans codes through the OBD connection. (see below) this must be new for the 00 model year or i misunderstood. i know some problems will through both a CEL and a flashing AT Temp light, like an unpluged MAF sensor, but i didn't know autozone could read trans codes. i thought you had to do the connector thing.

 

but i agree with what someone else said with all those trans issues it has to be a computer or wiring problem, not the trans. duh, you have already swapped the trans.

 

well i pulled a 8 long pulse 7 fast on the handshake. And went to autozone and read the code came back with 7 faults.

 

Need big help

 

P1133- Front oxygen Sensor (AF) Heater circuit high input

P1116- torque control cut signal circuit low input

P0748- pressure Duty A

P1722- Trans Diagnosis input signal high input

P1510-Idle Air control Solenoid Signal 1 circuit Low

P1516- Idle air Solenoid Signal 4 circuit low

P1705-2-4 brake pressure solenoid Valve (Solenoid D) Circuit

 

did you ever identify what a code 87 is for the trans (8 long and 7 short)?

 

how did the store read the other codes?

 

the above listed codes all look like CEL codes, do / did you have a Check Engine Light?

 

i don't mean to discount all you have done to figure this out, you have been working on it a long time and have done a lot. it must be frustrating. but i'm just a little confused.

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Sorry I re-did the handshake and it was a 76. All the other code was done by the obd2 scanner at autozone. And i have replace the ecm. It worked fine for a few days and back to the same drama

 

the ecm, twice as big, maybe more, as a paper back book, mounted under the carpet passenger side??

 

or the same size as a book, or a little smaller, under the dash driver's side?

 

i don't know much about the ecm, but it is possible that by installing a different ecm, one that had not been powered up, you started with a clean slate and it took several drive cycles to set the codes again. in other words you migth have gotten the same results with leaving the neg. battery cable off over night.

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