Should it be hard to get a new A/T pan sealed?

[bulwnkl]

I recently pulled just a bit too hard on the wrench tightening the A/T drain bolt on my Baja after a routine service. As is kinda common on the 4EATs, this seems to have distorted the pan/threads just a touch, such that nothing I tried would stop the ATF dripping out of the drain bolt/hole.

 

So, I ordered a new A/T pan from Subaru and installed it per instructions with Permatex RTV Black. Well, the drain bolt/hole leak is of course gone, but I was getting some leakage from the pan/case junction. I figured I just didn't get the Permatex quite right, which is easy on account of ATF continuously dripping down even after a couple hours of pan-off drainage.

 

On account of having a bunch of family and friends coming over this weekend, I just asked the local dealer to re-seal the pan while they were doing the fuel pump bracket recall on Friday.

 

Went to pick up the truck, got looking at the receipt as I went back to work, and saw that not only did they charge me $100(!!) to take the pan off and put it back on, but they said they put 6 quarts of ATF in it! For those not familiar, that is precisely double the quantity this tranny has ever required in about 5 drain-and-fills and the pan replacement.

 

I checked the level once I got home, and it's WAAAAYYY over-full. Called them to talk about it and they said to bring it back and they'll fix it. No problem, but I said it'd be Monday before I could get it back, which was fine with them. Well, guess what I see on the floor under the truck this weekend? A growing puddle of ATF! They and the Subaru sealant apparently aren't any better than Permatex and I are at getting this pan sealed up.

 

Should it really be this tough to re-seal the A/T pan? What am I gonna have to do to get it sealed up?

Edited September 27, 2010 by bulwnkl

[lmdew]

First, don't drive it over filled, its bad for the trans.

 

To get the pan to seal to the trans, both surfaces must be Clean, Clean, Clean. Then a nice even coat of RTV, I like the grey. bolt it up a little at a time in a cross pattern, and only to the proper torque.

 

Then let it set for 24 hours to let the RTV cure.

 

You should be all set.

 

If its way over full, it may be leaking from the dipstick tube, where it goes into the trans.

[nipper]

On a drain and fill flush i went through a case of tranny fluid, so it sounds about right for just draining the pan (I think as I never just drain the pan).

 

One mre thing on the pan, the pan lip must be absolutly flat. Sometimes the lip gets bent by some overly frustrated wrench turners.

 

nipper

[ericem]

Why not just buy the gasket? They do sell a gasket for the transmission oil pan and there is a reason for this.

[bulwnkl]

Thanks for the advice, fellows. The truck is still at Subaru, but they've called to say it's all fixed (excess fluid removed, and they're claiming no leaks/drops). We shall see...

 

The absolute cleanliness issue is probably what bit me. I let the thing sit for hours (literally), but there was still ATF that would drip down onto the mating surface of the A/T case periodically, so I'm guessing that was my issue. Maybe theirs, too? I've had that trouble on a rear diff cover on my pickup before. That thing took forever to drain enough that I could keep the mating surface dry by wiping inside the case quickly, alcohol-ing the surface clean/dry, and trying to slap the cover back on. Sheesh!

 

Ericm: I tried to buy a gasket for the thing, but both the Subaru dealers I talked to (my local one and subarugenuineparts.com) said there's no gasket for the A/T pan, just sealant. If you happen to have a part number, I'd appreciate receiving it, just in case.

[ShawnW]

On the early 4eat like XT6, Gen1 legacy and SVX I remember seeing a gasket. The newer one, no gasket just RTV.

 

Is the silicone they used an Orange/Red color?

 

I use Fuji Bond Red for this and cure overnight which isn't necessary. The dripping is normal, annoying and only stops, kindof after draining for days. When I rebuild these trannys is the only time I feel I get a perfect seal.

[bulwnkl]

Yes, the sealant they used was a reddish orange color. They specified the exact product they used on the invoice, but I don't recall what it said. I guess that if it has stopped leaking now that they've had it a couple days, that'll be ok with me. If it's gonna keep dripping, they're gonna get it back until it doesn't any more. I actually went looking for some rubber or cork gasket material from which I could cut my own gasket for it, but the parts stores around here don't seem to carry that sort of thing any more.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

[lmdew]

Lots of aftermarket filters/screens (which really don't need to be changed) come with a pan gasket.

 

Leave the pan in place and flush the fluid is all that required unless you have other work to do in the trans.

[Fuzpile]

This may be interesting re 4EAT draining. When I got my new old car a year ago I checked the fluids before purchase-Clean. I still drained the AT and the oil was clean. So I figure everything is still clean because the dipstick is clean oil.

I was going to add TransX to it and worked out the ratio.

26 oz from the 32 oz bottle . Then since it may already have been done and draining only removes half of the oil that goes to 13 oz when it's drained.

I'll get cut off. Next post is the meat.

[Fuzpile]

Between my jack, my belly and the tight plug, I didn't want to look like someone stepped on a burrito- when they found me. So I drew fluid out the dipstick hole. Serious Not Good ! The thin hose only went about 5" below the dip range but must've got into torque conv sump or something.

Very Brown. This will be sucked out first and more than 6 quarts will go in before it right for additive.

[Fuzpile]

I could barely get out of there as it was. was supposed to take a minute. Anyway, the folks here aways say to drain, run and drain again for a reason. There is a lot of junk IN the TC -they said it and the area beneath it which doesn't drain out.

[Fuzpile]

Minor update. While looking at it my trans pan was sealed with the same orangeish stuff and doesn't leak. I don't know where excactly the tube went to draw the worst fluid out. The 2nd try didn't find it that dirty nor did draining out the remaining gallon. The drain bolt was a problem. I was the last one to remove it and it wasn't so bad then. I had to use an electric impact because i could fit under there well. Looking at the washer of the plug I see it was like a sparkplug type which collapses and I had reused it. i think that get's us in trouble.

[bulwnkl]

Leave the pan in place and flush the fluid is all that required unless you have other work to do in the trans.

 

I don't like to do home-brew flushes because they are messy (though I did it a couple of times on this Subie when I first got it). Drain and fill is very clean and easy, and doing it periodically is all that's needed to keep the fluid 'healthy.' I just messed up when I over-tightened the drain bolt and didn't replace the washer on the improperly-built pan.

 

Got it back from the dealer and it's no longer dripping. Oddly, though, I have an occasional drop/spot/something of a much more brownish fluid. Haven't messed around to see whether it's engine oil or gear lube yet; been riding the bike to work.