95 legacy front parking lights

[OB99W]

heh this guy swears I was not probing the F40 connector. [...]

F40 is a 10 pin("pole") connector, with red wire at pin #1. The other two wires that can be seen of the connector you're at in your photo would be pins #6 & #7 if it's a 10-pin. The FSM indicates F40 pin #6 has a yellow wire, and pin #7 has a white one. "Amazingly" those colors match the pic. It would be quite a coincidence (and very stupid on Subaru's part) for there to be two connectors in close proximity that had identical wire colors.

 

In addition, you've already reported that the pin where your meter probe is shown has 12 volts that's switched by the light switches. Is that also coincidence?

 

Being human, I'm not infallible. However, I spend a lot of time before giving specific information about things like this. I don't blame anyone for trying to be as careful as possible with their car, or for being cautious about trusting someone on the Internet that they don't personally know. But you're going to have to decide whether you think what I've told you has value, or if you're going to keep "shopping around" for more opinions.

 

Good luck.

[1-3-2-4]

F40 is a 10 pin("pole") connector, with red wire at pin #1. The other two wires that can be seen of the connector you're at in your photo would be pins #6 & #7 if it's a 10-pin. The FSM indicates F40 pin #6 has a yellow wire, and pin #7 has a white one. "Amazingly" those colors match the pic. It would be quite a coincidence (and very stupid on Subaru's part) for there to be two connectors in close proximity that had identical wire colors.

 

In addition, you've already reported that the pin where your meter probe is shown has 12 volts that's switched by the light switches. Is that also coincidence?

 

Being human, I'm not infallible. However, I spend a lot of time before giving specific information about things like this. I don't blame anyone for trying to be as careful as possible with their car, or for being cautious about trusting someone on the Internet that they don't personally know. But you're going to have to decide whether you think what I've told you has value, or if you're going to keep "shopping around" for more opinions.

 

Good luck.

 

 

no point of trying another connector since the wire is powered by the switch as I said to you before.

 

besides the picture that shows the connectors that go to the fusebox is less then the amount plugged in.

 

Should be no rain tomorrow so I will be checking for the break.

 

funny thing is I checked the ohm of the wire (forgot to take the bulb out) and it appears to be getting the reading of the bulb in the socket.

 

this is what the reading was

 

[OB99W]

[...]funny thing is I checked the ohm of the wire (forgot to take the bulb out) and it appears to be getting the reading of the bulb in the socket. [...]

Under what conditions did you make that measurement? If you were back-probing F40 pin #1 while it was still connected to the fuse panel, relative to ground, then you'd be reading the resistance of everything common to that pin. That would include all the rear lamps.

 

What's the resistance to ground of F40 pin #1(red) if F40 is unplugged from the fuse panel (leaving the front lamps in place)?

[1-3-2-4]

Under what conditions did you make that measurement? If you were back-probing F40 pin #1 while it was still connected to the fuse panel, relative to ground, then you'd be reading the resistance of everything common to that pin. That would include all the rear lamps.

 

What's the resistance to ground of F40 pin #1(red) if F40 is unplugged from the fuse panel (leaving the front lamps in place)?

 

yeah i was back-probing while it was still connected to the FP So I guess I gotta take out all the bulbs then?

 

Why would Subaru put both the front and rear tail lamps on the same circuit? and let alone the same fuse?

[OB99W]

You didn't answer my last question, "What's the resistance to ground of F40 pin #1(red) if F40 is unplugged from the fuse panel (leaving the front lamps in place)?". If you do that, the rear lamps will be disconnected from the circuit, and with the front lamps in place, the resistance should be low if the wiring to the front lamps were good.

 

Since you've reported that 12 volts isn't getting to the lamps, but it's at F40 pin #1 (when it's connected), then doing what I asked should result in a high/infinite resistance. That would then verify a break. You could also unplug F40, and measure the resistance from pin #1(red) to a red wire at one of the front lamp sockets. Obviously, that resistance should be very low if the wire is okay, and high/infinite if there's a break.

 

Of course, I have the disadvantage of not being able to see/do things on you car directly, and have to rely on info you provide. Assuming what you've reported is accurate, what I've said should be as well.

[1-3-2-4]

You didn't answer my last question, "What's the resistance to ground of F40 pin #1(red) if F40 is unplugged from the fuse panel (leaving the front lamps in place)?". If you do that, the rear lamps will be disconnected from the circuit, and with the front lamps in place, the resistance should be low if the wiring to the front lamps were good.

 

Since you've reported that 12 volts isn't getting to the lamps, but it's at F40 pin #1 (when it's connected), then doing what I asked should result in a high/infinite resistance. That would then verify a break. You could also unplug F40, and measure the resistance from pin #1(red) to a red wire at one of the front lamp sockets. Obviously, that resistance should be very low if the wire is okay, and high/infinite if there's a break.

 

Of course, I have the disadvantage of not being able to see/do things on you car directly, and have to rely on info you provide. Assuming what you've reported is accurate, what I've said should be as well.

 

 

hmm when i step out tonight I will get the resistance to ground with F40 unplugged

[1-3-2-4]

I think I did what you asked and I can confirm it's F40.

 

I unplugged the connector and probed it and touched ground and I get an open circuit.

 

 

 

I forgot my meter has a continuity mode

Edited September 29, 2010 by 1-3-2-4

[OB99W]

I think I did what you asked and I can confirm it's F40.

I was already convinced that connector is F40, but I'm glad you're more comfortable with it now. (And yes, the photo shows that all the wire colors agree with what the FSM has for F40.)

 

 

I unplugged the connector and probed it and touched ground and I get an open circuit.

If measuring continuity from pin #1(red) of F40 to ground (with F40 unplugged and front lamps in their sockets) resulted in an open circuit, then it confirms a break in the red wire. (That assumes good lamps, and sockets making contact with them.) The lamp ground has to be good, since the turn signals work.

 

Next step is to find the break. As I've already suggested, start with a visual inspection.

[1-3-2-4]

I was already convinced that connector is F40, but I'm glad you're more comfortable with it now. (And yes, the photo shows that all the wire colors agree with what the FSM has for F40.)

 

 

 

If measuring continuity from pin #1(red) of F40 to ground (with F40 unplugged and front lamps in their sockets) resulted in an open circuit, then it confirms a break in the red wire. (That assumes good lamps, and sockets making contact with them.) The lamp ground has to be good, since the turn signals work.

 

Next step is to find the break. As I've already suggested, start with a visual inspection.

 

Yeah I will check it in the morning after work.. I was convinced it was F40 as well but some others never see it that way.

 

I think the junction is taped with electrical tape?

[1-3-2-4]

Outside now and I think I have it narrowed down to the drivers side wire harness for the wire passenger side tests fine.

[1-3-2-4]

I think I'm going to have to take off the driver side fender.. I think it's held in by 4 bolts? 3 at the top under the hood and looks to be one where the bumper meet?

 

to recap with F40 unplugged I decided to probe the bulb connector the 12V lead to ground and I had continuity.. However when I did the same for the driver's side I had an open circuit..

 

Now this confuses me because I know the left and right meet at a junction but how in what way? Now this could also still mean that the break is between the driver's side and the F40 connection.

[OB99W]

I think I'm going to have to take off the driver side fender.. I think it's held in by 4 bolts? 3 at the top under the hood and looks to be one where the bumper meet?

Do NOT take off the fender. Have you removed the inner fender lining yet? It's a large plastic part, at the underside of the fender, more accessible if you take off the front left wheel. The harness runs between that and the fender.

 

See http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/AC/395-04016010.html.

 

 

 

to recap with F40 unplugged I decided to probe the bulb connector the 12V lead to ground and I had continuity.. However when I did the same for the driver's side I had an open circuit..

 

Now this confuses me because I know the left and right meet at a junction but how in what way? Now this could also still mean that the break is between the driver's side and the F40 connection.

Based on what you've reported, the break is between F40 and the junction (splice) in the harness, very possibly at that junction. Once you remove the inner fender lining and can see the harness, you can inspect it. You may have to untape and pull back some corrogated wire loom to access the problem area.

 

You're making this much harder than it has to be, both on yourself and on me. I'm getting ready to bail, since you aren't following half of my suggestions. If that's because you don't trust me, then let's call it quits right now.

[1-3-2-4]

I'm not sure why you are getting so jumpy I went out last night at 11pm to get the reading with the connection unplugged.

 

I thought I would have enough room to check the wire.. my stock jack is no good so I went for the other option.. but I did not get far since I have to go take a family member to the doctor but they have a jack so I can use the jack to take off the wheel.

[OB99W]

I'm not sure why you are getting so jumpy [...]

(Normally I wouldn't post this sort of thing publically, but my answer might help expedite other's efforts to help forum members. My apologies to anyone who might find this "off topic".)

 

Let's just say that after many years of troubleshooting problems such as yours, I've developed diagnostic procedures that typically minimize time and effort needed to find the fault and reliably repair it. When I suggest a particular approach, it's because doing it and obtaining the result usually leads to a logical next step. If the person I'm trying to help keeps going off on "side trips", it just prolongs and confuses the process. You have a perfect right to do that, but I reserve the right to stop participating.

 

I first mentioned the need to pull the inner fender liner back in post #16, and this will be #39. Perhaps that's why I'm "jumpy".

 

There are times when my best efforts over the Internet don't lead to a fix. That's usually due to the complexity of the problem. However, the problem you're having is trivial, although finding the fault will take a bit of effort. I'm willing to stick with you if you'll stay focused.

[1-3-2-4]

I can stay focused id like to get to the root cause of this as well

[OB99W]

I can stay focused id like to get to the root cause of this as well

Okay, sounds good. Let us know what you find once you get the fender liner off.

[1-3-2-4]

Will do lots of running around today

[1-3-2-4]

Good news I found the wire no clue how it got like it looks, looks like it got pulled and broke pics when I'm done

[1-3-2-4]

[1-3-2-4]

[OB99W]

Good news I found the wire no clue how it got like it looks, looks like it got pulled and broke pics when I'm done

Congrats. The closeup photo is great for seeing the broken wire, but doesn't make it easy to tell where on the harness it happened. How about informing us?

[1-3-2-4]

Near the upper part in the middle as I was opening it up I ran right into it I'm on my phone now and the battery is going to die but I have another shot of the wires as I connected them again.

[OB99W]

Near the upper part in the middle as I was opening it up I ran right into it I'm on my phone now and the battery is going to die but I have another shot of the wires as I connected them again.

Got that additional shot? Although it's probably not a common problem, you never know -- it just might help someone else.

[1-3-2-4]

this is the only other picture I took

 

 

before I connected back it seemed like the wire was stretched.

[johnceggleston]

 

 

congrats on the fix. i'm not sure i would have stuck it out.

 

and kudos to ob99 for his help.