What else should I work on while replacing Clutch (engine out access)

[211]

Just trying to get my ducks in a row here, sorry, I feel like I'm over thinking this job a little bit sometimes.

 

I'm planning on pulling the engine to replace the clutch this weekend. Any other suggestions as to what else to replace/repair/inspect/maintain/etc while I have the engine out?

 

The car has 134k on it, original clutch, timing belt and all related pulleys including the wp were replaced at 103k.

Regular mainenance was performed during the time I've owned it.

 

 

 

I'm planning on replacing the following:

• clutch parts (pressure plate, disc, t/o bearing, clips) including machining the flywheel
  
• baffle plate; plastic to metal (unless it's already a metal one)
  
• spark plugs
  

I will not do the timing belt, head gaskets or rear main seal.

 

What about the valves, I did NOT adjust them when I did the timing belt. Should I do those? They're not noisy at all.

Also what about the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, replace or reuse?

Sorry should've merged my 'replace/reuse' post with this one, now I can't delete it.

Edited September 29, 2010 by 211

[idosubaru]

vehicle/year/engine is helpful. list looks pretty good to me, that's about what i'd be doing, here's some additional thoughts.

 

reseal valve covers and replace spark plugs if it's an EJ25.

 

if it's an EJ22 or EJ18 then i wouldn't care, they're really easy to do in the car so just do whatever you feel like. if they're wet replace.

 

you don't replace any bolts at all, reuse them all.

 

the newer style metal plates have a different style screw but that's to accomodate the different part, not because the screws need replaced.

 

i would add pilot bearing to your clutch part list.

 

oil pans are tricky due to the sump needing clearance through the baffles in the pan, you can't see it so it doesn't make sense until you see it. but if it's wet you might want to consider doing that otherwise you have to unbolt and lift the engine while it's in the car to replace the oil pan. not all big of a deal but not a fun endeavor either.

[211]

Oops, sorry- 2000 OBW ej25 SOHC.

 

Pilot comes with the kit so that'll be replaced as well, and all spark plugs are being replaced.

Valve cover and oil pan gaskets are not leaking but anyone care to comment on whether or not I should adjust the valves? I've never done them before and I don't know if they ever have been done.

[GeneralDisorder]

You should adjust the valves. See my current post on burned exhaust valves. The going theory is that it's a direct result of not adjusting them at the proper 105k interval. The engine has 169k on it and the damage is severe enough that it needs the heads rebuilt - which if you aren't familar with EJ's that means a head gasket job in addition to ~$200 in machine work. Not to mention hours and hours of labor. I just did a SOHC engine with the same burned exhaust valve problem. It did take a little longer to get there - 199k on that one. But the result was the same.

 

GD

Edited September 30, 2010 by GeneralDisorder

[211]

Thank you. I will definitely check the valves while I have the engine out.

 

For a SOHC EJ25 are these screw-type adjustable or shim?

[GeneralDisorder]

For a SOHC EJ25 are these screw-type adjustable or shim?

 

Screw type - very simple. Just need a feeler gauge and a wrench. With the engine out it takes maybe 10 minutes per head.

 

GD