Removing plug wire boots 1998 outback

[olivia123]

I need to replace the plus on my 1998 outback wagon 2.5. I’ve never done a 2.5 before and have read the posts with advice on how to get at the plugs. I started the other day and could not get the rubber boots off the plugs. I tried pliers etc but no luck. I plan to replace the wires as well but am wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to how to get the boots off the plugs? I’m willing to destroy the wires/boots if need be.

[GeneralDisorder]

Constant pressure vs. yanking seems to work best. Pry back the edges of the plug hole covers and spray a liberal amount of WD40 in there. Long needle nose pleirs can help give the leverage needed.

 

When you get to the point of needing to remove the plug you will have some fun with sockets and extensions. I slip the peices of my combo in one at a time and assemble them in the hole. Then once the plug is fully threaded out I reverse the procedure. It's a nightmare but it's just barely possible

 

GD

[Rooster2]

Constant pressure vs. yanking seems to work best. Pry back the edges of the plug hole covers and spray a liberal amount of WD40 in there. Long needle nose pleirs can help give the leverage needed.

 

When you get to the point of needing to remove the plug you will have some fun with sockets and extensions. I slip the peices of my combo in one at a time and assemble them in the hole. Then once the plug is fully threaded out I reverse the procedure. It's a nightmare but it's just barely possible

 

GD

 

+1 on the above. I had the same problem a few years back on my 99 OBW. I yanked, twisted, and pulled until the boots either pulled off, or ripped off in pieces with long handled needle nose pliers. Years of under hood heat seem to weld and shrink the boots onto the plugs. When adding new wires, smear on some of that Vasoline type stuff that is made specifically for plug wire. It will make the next wire change a lot easier.

 

Changing the plugs will be just as nasty. Read old threads on how best to do that job.

[Legback]

I used the handles of a pair of channel locks to grip the t handle on the plug boot and made a fulcrum with a screw driver handle to pry against. Wasn't pretty but it worked. Removed the battery and washer reservoir for right side and air filter box for passenger side ease of access.

A foot of 3/8 rubber hose is a must for starting in your new plugs within the week. Impossible without it.

[davebugs]

Hose pliers. I have Sunnax(sp?) and I've seen them at Harbor Freight. A set of 3. I think the HF ones are best for this - less angle at the end where they are rounded.

 

The LAST thing you wanna go is leave part of the boot over the plug in the hole.

 

Dielectric grease for the plug top and new boot.

 

Definately anti-seize on the threads of the plug.

 

Usually swearing is involved.

 

Removing the washed bottle sometimes helps.

 

Another trick is to get a long (like 3') extension and keep the ratchet out of the engine bay - especially on the drivers side. The long extension and a universal work well. I also have a SK or KD plug socket with a swivel built in. But you'll need an assortment of extensions and stuff. I find my like 1" snap-on extension works good in one of the needed combinations.

 

Good luck.

 

Don't hurry.

[Rooster2]

Subaru could have made the spark plug change a lot easier had they left access holes in the inner fender wells large enough to insert a spark plug socket. They could have even added rubber plugs to cover the holes to keep dirt and water spray out of the engine bay. Maybe a design engineer working on future design will read this, and incorporate this idea into new Subies!

 

It seems a little strange to pull the road wheels to change spark plugs with my idea, but a whole lot easier, then the mechanic unfriendly way that the plugs have to be changed now.

[GeneralDisorder]

It seems a little strange to pull the road wheels to change spark plugs with my idea, but a whole lot easier, then the mechanic unfriendly way that the plugs have to be changed now.

 

On the contrary - that's a common thing to see on american stuff - especially vans and trucks.

 

And Subaru has done similar things before - on the EA81's there are access holes to remove the rocker assembly bolts. It's a solid and workable feature that I agree should have been included.

 

GD

[phil527]

I would second the spraying of wd-40 or PB blaster in there and the liberal use of spark plug boot grease when installing the new set.

 

When I removed the original wires on my 98/2.5 I had the same problem. I pulled them off with pliers, but apparently the end of the boot is 2 pieces. I am not sure if all OEM wires are like this or not, but when the end part is left behind, you can not get a plug socket past it.

 

I had to spend several hours with a small screwdriver and pick set to work off the remaining part of the boot that was left behind. If I had to do it again I would make sure I gave each plug a thorough soak and try to rotate them a bit first before just yanking.

[olivia123]

Thanks for all the advice. I got it done today, not too bad about 2 hours total. What I did to get the boots off was to disconnect a wire from the coil, is that what it is?, and thread it out. Then I wrapped the coil end around my hand and yanked on it while at the same time pulling and twisting the winged end on the plug. Came right off. I followed a lot of the methods mentioned in posts for getting the plugs out and in and of course there was a lot of trial and error involved. Not as bad as expected next time should be easier

[eppoh]

Subaru could have made the spark plug change a lot easier had they left access holes in the inner fender wells large enough to insert a spark plug socket. They could have even added rubber plugs to cover the holes to keep dirt and water spray out of the engine bay. Maybe a design engineer working on future design will read this, and incorporate this idea into new Subies!

 

It seems a little strange to pull the road wheels to change spark plugs with my idea, but a whole lot easier, then the mechanic unfriendly way that the plugs have to be changed now.

 

Make your own holes and use a set of old plug wire boot caps as plugs.

 

I did something like this on a Chevy Diesel truck, for access to the turbo downpipe clamp