tractor pole Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 So here we go, so I have tried 4 to 5 different weights of oil. I always use the Union Sangyo (sp?) filters I was told that they are the same as OEM filters. What weight oil is the best for a non turbo EA82 motor? I talking about conventional oil not synthetic. 5w-20 5w-30 (currently using) 10w-30 10w-40 20w-50 any input on this will be appreciated, I have found that 5w-30 seems to work the best for type of driving and climate I live in. thanks Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 use what you want or pick and choose who ever's opinion seems best to you, it doesn't matter. follow the owners manual oil weight recommendations, if you're within those spec's you're golden. you can google oil questions, tons of information out there to digest for those that want it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 I run 10w-30 in my freshly rebuilt ea82. It's creamy smooth and oil pressure is very predictable. New lifters don't mind the thicker stuff. I'll probably switch to 5w-30 or 10w-30 synthetic when the mornings are consistently below freezing on the next oil change. I'm curious, though I know there has been a ton of discussion on this point, what brand of oil we're talking about here? I like Valvoline for my vehicles because it's cheap(er) and still pretty good stuff. Ams in the ghetto cruiser would be overkill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted October 1, 2010 Author Share Posted October 1, 2010 I like Valvoline for my vehicles because it's cheap(er) and still pretty good stuff. Ams in the ghetto cruiser would be overkill. I use Valvoline too. Ams would definitely be overkill, considering I only paid $200 for the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 EA82s tend to like a little thicker oil (Even during Winter) I run 10w-40, you can also run 15w-40 if you want. It isn't going to hurt anything. I run Castrol GTX. I don't like synthetic oils and to me, really aren't work the extra money. -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 What about an EA81? Would it even matter for different engines to have different oil? What about using Synthetics? *Not trying to take your thread, just curious myself, and maybe others using the search function will see this thread and have both questions answered* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 What about an EA81? Would it even matter for different engines to have different oil? What about using Synthetics? *Not trying to take your thread, just curious myself, and maybe others using the search function will see this thread and have both questions answered* No oil doesn't matter with Engine. I still run 10w-40 in my EJ22. So running any grade of oil you want (Within Reason) in a Subaru engine isn't gonna hurt it. Just don't run 5w-30. In most everyday driving cases - Synthetics don't really live up to their potential. And if your worried about Oil breaking down with RPMs, Don't be. I run Conventional 10w-40 in my EA82 and I run it 3500-4000rpm all day on the interstate. "This is not Neurological Science, we're not building Bugatti Vyrons. This is a Subaru." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted October 1, 2010 Author Share Posted October 1, 2010 No oil doesn't matter with Engine. I still run 10w-40 in my EJ22. So running any grade of oil you want (Within Reason) in a Subaru engine isn't gonna hurt it. Just don't run 5w-30. In most everyday driving cases - Synthetics don't really live up to their potential. And if your worried about Oil breaking down with RPMs, Don't be. I run Conventional 10w-40 in my EA82 and I run it 3500-4000rpm all day on the interstate. "This is not Neurological Science, we're not building Bugatti Vyrons. This is a Subaru." I am not trying to "pick the fly s*!t out of the pepper" I am trying to get a consensus of what others are using, especially on high mileage cars... Why not 5w30? if "any grade of oil (within reason)" is ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 No oil doesn't matter with Engine. I still run 10w-40 in my EJ22. So running any grade of oil you want (Within Reason) in a Subaru engine isn't gonna hurt it. Just don't run 5w-30. In most everyday driving cases - Synthetics don't really live up to their potential. And if your worried about Oil breaking down with RPMs, Don't be. I run Conventional 10w-40 in my EA82 and I run it 3500-4000rpm all day on the interstate. "This is not Neurological Science, we're not building Bugatti Vyrons. This is a Subaru." Agreed. Though, I suppose it depends on how long and far you run your vehicle. I have a huge hill to go up on my commute, so I drive instead of ride my bike to that destination. My car is fully warm about the time I reach the end of my journey. This is coupled with nights around -10 to +10 F in the winter, so synthetic's ability to work well in extremes is beneficial to me. If I had a long commute, I might not reap the benefits of synth, as much. Also, I try to only buy synthetic on sale. Otherwise it's not worth it. But back to weights , I also agree that healthy EA82's like 10w-30 to 15w-40 generally speaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 I am not trying to "pick the fly s*!t out of the pepper" I am trying to get a consensus of what others are using, especially on high mileage cars...Why not 5w30? if "any grade of oil (within reason)" is ok. EA engines run pretty low oil pressure at low rpm. It is sufficient to lube the engine while running the correct viscosity oil at these lower rpms. On a hydraulic lifter engine with sticky/clogged lifters, a lighter oil is going to flow into the lifter passages easier, but it doesn't perform it's other duties as well. Stick with what Subaru specked the engine with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
True2Blue Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 (edited) heres my two cents conventional oil is good its cheap. i like Valvoline as well but its on you to decide. i asked this question years ago on this board and i was told 10w or 15w-40 would be good for worn/ticking engines. i ran it and it was okay. hyperlube works best for ticks btw. ive been wrenching for 6 years now and 4 of them as a "professional" in the army (guard and reserve but title 10 (active) mostly) ive done my homework. i am POL and hazmat certified... im not a engine expert or super tech there are lots of guys on here that are more knowledgeable than myself on engines but im no dummy.. i always help when i can... full synthetic is spendy but best in my opinion because: 1) we wont run out of it (its created in a lab) 2) its thin and thick (comes in all weighs, duh i know) but has awesome viscosity without passage clotting in extreme temps 3)it has a higher boiling point (500 degrees) AND a greater resistance to evaporation ive seen what conventional's do to the internals when they get hot. looks like an oven drip pan, which in time clogs the oil passages and gunks up the the oil pump, eventually killing your engine because good maintenance like chemical flushes won't get all of the cooked oil (gunk) out lets be honest how many guys on here chemically clean their engines?..................................... with all that said my recommendation is (good for turbo engines as well) : 5w40 full synthetic WHY 5w40? quick and simple 5w = the oils viscosity at 32°F 5w is good for cold starting 40 = the oils viscosity at 212°F 40 "w" is thick enough to keep everything thats "old 'n' worn" smooth and operational so if you think about it you have a BIG change in the oils molecular structure that seriously protects your internals at the extremes that you will be putting your vehicle through AND if you advance your timing for that "peppyness" which makes the engine run a bit hotter the oil WONT BURN thats my 2 cents - Kody Edited October 1, 2010 by True2Blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 10w-40. anything less craps (more) out of my valve cover gaskets. makes my 2" puddle into a 3-4" puddle also, I use castrol GTX. and I ALWAYS use WIX filters, unless the purolator Pureone's are on sale with GTX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 You asked for opinions.... I use 5W50 or 5W40 synthetic in mine. Synthetic because it starts better in the winter -- you can hear how gooey the regular stuff is at 0F. It seems to rev better with the synthetic too. And with 5W50 it only burns/leaks a quart every 4 tanks, instead of every tank like with 10W30 dino (240k or so on it). Switching to 5W50 in the winter and 10W40 in the summer might work too, except it's hard to tell when winter and summer switch here in colorado (combined with my propensity to travel between the mountains at 10,000feet elevation and the flatlands down at 5,000 all the time too.... it'll go between -10F and 65F in the "winter", and 30F and 100F in the "summer" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted October 1, 2010 Author Share Posted October 1, 2010 You asked for opinions.... I use 5W50 or 5W40 synthetic in mine. Synthetic because it starts better in the winter -- you can hear how gooey the regular stuff is at 0F. It seems to rev better with the synthetic too. And with 5W50 it only burns/leaks a quart every 4 tanks, instead of every tank like with 10W30 dino (240k or so on it). Switching to 5W50 in the winter and 10W40 in the summer might work too, except it's hard to tell when winter and summer switch here in colorado (combined with my propensity to travel between the mountains at 10,000feet elevation and the flatlands down at 5,000 all the time too.... it'll go between -10F and 65F in the "winter", and 30F and 100F in the "summer" thank you, this is exactly the kind of information that I was looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverback Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I use DELO 400 LE 15w-40. A conventional oil, it is designed to keep particulates in suspension. Your lifters like that feature. Works well in western Washington. More info is available at the Chevron website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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