bbenton8 Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 A year ago I had the left rear bearing replaced, and the 5 or 6 bolts that had to be removed to get the knuckle off were so seized the mechanic had to cut some parts to get them off, which really drove up the cost. Now I need the right bearing replaced and this time I want to take it all apart & take the knuckle with the bearing to my mechanic to R/R the bearing, then put it back together. Any tips on getting the various bolts/arms off without having to destroy some of them? My initial thought is PB Blaster and a lot of patience working the bolts/nuts off, but I'd like to go into this with suggestions on the "easiest" way to do it. That's kind of a joke as I know it won't be "easy". Any tips on cleaning up the bolt threads etc? Also the Haynes guide calls for loosening the wheel (brake drum?) nut while wheel is on the ground, what size nut is that? Want to get the right socket if I don't already have it, before hand. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 i think you mean the axle nut, the really big one - that's a 32 mm. as far as removing rusted bolts it's just plain and simple annoying. repeated application of penetrant like pb blaster over the course of a long period of time, not just right before you do it is a good thing. hard to say without knowing exactly which bolts will be an issue but i assume the lower rear lateral link bolt will be more problem area. soak the entire length that's visible through the notch in the hub housing. you'll see when you look. still a good chance of it being seized in there though and not wanting to come out of the housing. those are notorious. the only way to gaurantee a quick job is to order a complete hub assembly from the west or south that is rust free. find a place that will mail you the entire hub assembly with the lateral link attached to it then you can just remove your old rusted one from the vehicle without messing with that lateral link bolt on the hub assembly. heat will be your friend, sometimes this is a job for a mechanic who has the tools (heat) to get it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbenton8 Posted October 1, 2010 Author Share Posted October 1, 2010 Thanks, yes my mechanic had to heat the left one last year, I do have a full oxy/acet torch setup. Will get a 32mm socket, probably a breaker bar too (my old torque wrench may not do it). will try repeated apps of pb blaster, I know that will take time. so I'll start this weekend & see how far I get. also could use advice on where to get the bearing. I used carpartswholesale.com before when I did my head gaskets earlier this year, they're ok, but other options would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 For the axle nut a 32mm 6pt socket in 3/4" drive with a big 'ol piece of pipe on it works pretty well. 1/2" drive stuff breaks on this job sometimes. 3/4" drive 6pt sockets in chrome are hard to find; most are impact. I just picked up such a chrome socket by Beta (got it off amazon). When you do finally get it off, note that Subaru does not recommend using a hydraulic press to get the wheel bearing out. There were issues mainly with Foresters with the bearing housing getting deformed when using a press and then leading to a series of repeat failures for the rest of the vehicle's life. A hub tamer type device is what's used now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 the 32mm nut can be a BEAST. often they just come off just fine, but a wrestling match isn't rare either. i've broken socket wrenches and breaker bars and finally upgraded to a 1,000 ft-lb or so air gun and sometimes i just have to use a 4 foot pipe over a 3/4" socket wrench handle. yours might come right off, but might not too. if it's a tough one a quick blast of heat only on the nut and immediately trying to remove it sometimes helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 If you can get a can of Yield rust penetrant, that'll work better than PB Blaster. Best of luck with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 The lateral link bolt is the one that often is a PITA. Some have used lots of PB blaster some the blue wrench (torch) and some pullers. Might be a good idea to get a new one on hand to put back in with some anti-seize. There used to be an endwrench article on using the hub shark like system to replace the bearings on the car but I can't seem to find it now. I know the tool is around $500? to buy. Some have been able to rent them from auto parts stores and some have used this set from Harbor Freight on fronts and rears with success: Link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbenton8 Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 So I assume the lateral link bolt is the "long bolt" my mechanic said would be problematic. We shall see. Re the Yield product, where can it be purchased? I did a search and came up with the manufacturer, Chemsearch, but nothing about where to get it. I'm in upstate NY & have the usual nationwide auto stores around... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 A bolt that may surprise you on difficulty to remove is the trailing link bolt. On my SVX, I spent around 3-4 weeks PB soak and heat soak, and I STILL had to cut if off. No room to get decent sockets on one side of it. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbenton8 Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 Oh terrific... maybe paying my mechanic isn't sounding so bad after all... but I figure I'll give it a go & see how far I get. Still hoping someone can clue me in on where to get Yield penetrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 I like to get the bolts hot and then hit them with Kroil penetrating oil. That seems to help it soak in. I haven't tried a lot of penetrating oils but the kroil has been working good for me. Sometimes a bolt still ends up getting cut or a nut splitter used on it, etc., because sometimes the rust is just too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbenton8 Posted October 8, 2010 Author Share Posted October 8, 2010 are the axle nuts all standard right-hand threads? Specifically the right rear. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggroller Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Will get a 32mm socket, probably a breaker bar too (my old torque wrench may not do it).I never use a torque wrench to break free a tight nut/bolt for the fear of damaging the tool. Cheap breaker bars like those found at Harbor Freight seem to take a LOT of abuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Yeah, don't trust any torque wrench to be accurate after you use it as a breaker bar to loosen something. Buy a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a 3/4" to 1/2" impact adapter. I've never had my set break, and I've broken plenty of Mac, Matco, and SnapOn 1/2" drive breaker bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 are the axle nuts all standard right-hand threads? Specifically the right rear. Thanksyeah, all standard stuff. they can be REALLY tight. i had one my 900 foot pound air gun wouldn't get off even with a torch last year. first time i'd ever seen one that tight. came off with a really long steel pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbenton8 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 the axle nut actually loosened up just fine. I bought a 24" breaker bar & 32mm axle nut socket at Advance Auto. Now here's a couple questions- how to remove the parking brake cable from the backer plate? the "shroud" seems to somehow be bonded with the backer plate. And, suggestions for getting the brake line connection out of the cylinder? I tried a regular 10mm wrench, but just started to round the connector, so bought flare nut wrenches today & it's still not budging. I also tried the connection at the other end of the short line, but that's good & tight too. Can heat be used on brake line components? I don't think brake fluid is flammable but not 100% sure, & I don't want to damage anything I don't have to. I've got the shoes, adjuster etc all out, just need to get the cylinder & park brake line out. Then the real fun begins with the linkages bolts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbenton8 Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 I finally got the knuckle off last night & took it to my mechanic today to replace the bearing. Regarding the wheel speed sensor- is the "rod" that extends through the backing plate actually a part of the sensor or is it separate, with only a contact connection to the part that bolts to the outside of the backing plate? It was easy removing the bolt but it was a bear getting that part separated from the plate and I thought I snapped the rod off. However, both surfaces are perfectly smooth leading me to think I didn't snap anything. Can anyone help me out on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Oh terrific... maybe paying my mechanic isn't sounding so bad after all... but I figure I'll give it a go & see how far I get. Still hoping someone can clue me in on where to get Yield penetrant My lateral link came out nice and easy... but my location helps. GeneralDisorder set up a group-buy of Yield last year. He might be a good source of information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbenton8 Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 please see the post I made before yours today. My current question is about the wheel speed sensor. Knuckle is now off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Sorry, I apparently didn't get to the end of the thread before posting my previous comment. I finally got the knuckle off last night & took it to my mechanic today to replace the bearing. Regarding the wheel speed sensor- is the "rod" that extends through the backing plate actually a part of the sensor or is it separate, with only a contact connection to the part that bolts to the outside of the backing plate? It was easy removing the bolt but it was a bear getting that part separated from the plate and I thought I snapped the rod off. However, both surfaces are perfectly smooth leading me to think I didn't snap anything. Can anyone help me out on this? My experience was with and SVX which should have similar design. On mine, the tone-ring sensor just bolted to the back of the backing plate and its tip poked through the plate. Mine did not have any separate rod. It was a tight fit through the backing plate, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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