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ea81 jumping tach...please help!!


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yesterday when i went to warm up my car before work(i work at 4 in the morning and have a 30 minute drive to get to work, so its cold!) the tach just wasnt working. and it had done that once before a long time ago so i tried the same thing that worked then, i shut it off and started it again, didnt work. so i was just like whatever, not a huge deal right now. then after it warmed up and i was driving to work, the tack needle was just being really erratic, jumping around everywhere.

 

 

heres a link to a video i took on the way back from work.

 

what could it be? bad coil? bad connection? bad tach? please help!!

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I just pulled my cap off and i found a bb in the disty. There's not any play in the shaft or anything, but i pulled that bb out and now it doesn't seem to be doing it anymore. But i haven't really driven it yet so i guess ill find out in the next few days if that was the problem.

Thanks,

Ryan

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  • 1 month later...

k, it started jumpin around again, but not as bad as it was in the video. its only jumping like 500 rpms now, but now when it jumps the car kinda studders a little bit. and on my way home from work today it started bogging and i got it turned into a parking lot before it died. i messed around with the fuel filter and lines cause it looked dirty and it started back up, so my next stop was schmucks to get a new one.(they didnt have the in-line one so i just got the under hood one). still kinda studders.

you guys still think it sounds like a disty bushing? im pretty sure its either that or the coil.

what coils are acceptable to use in ea81s?

and how do i check the disty bushing?

thanks!!

Ryan

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What disty should i get? How do i check which disty ive got?

 

Looks like your rig is 4wd so it will be a Hitachi.

Any Hitachi will be OK ,but,best to match the part #s stamped on side if you can.

ID a hitachi by observing the ignition module w/the distributor shaft passing directly thru.

All non-turbo 4wds used 42987 8110 pre 84.Some others after that which are different according to trans,Calif.etc

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There is a tiny bit of side to side movement. Prolly less than 1/16". Is that my problem or is that not enough to affect it?

 

If you can feel ANY side to side movement, it's bad :-\

 

There's a place in Portland that (used to?) rebuild them. Can't think of their name at the moment though.

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Yeah - Philbin Group - http://www.philbingroup.com/

 

You can also get the bushings and install them yourself. Though there might be some machine work that has to be done - not sure if the bushings are honed to the correct size after install or purchased that way. A small brake-cylinder hone could be used to finish hone some off-the-shelf oilite bushings. Probably be a couple bucks each from mcmasters and a 10 or 20 spot for a cheap brake hone.

 

GD

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There is a tiny bit of side to side movement. Prolly less than 1/16". Is that my problem or is that not enough to affect it?

 

I think the main problem is that at least 1 of the 3 bearings has fallen out of the pickup coil plate assembly due to wear and the magnet/stator is flopping around.

Edited by naru
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I think the main problem is that at least 1 of the 3 bearings has fallen out of the pickup coil plate assembly due to wear and the magnet/stator is flopping around.

 

Yeah - that ball bearing just hanging around inside the cap is a bad sign. That part can be had from a used distributor though - those are a much less common failure than the bushings.

 

GD

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There is a tiny bit of side to side movement. Prolly less than 1/16". Is that my problem or is that not enough to affect it?

 

The air gap between the reluctor on the shaft and the stator is only .012-.020".1/16 is .062",so that would be way too much wear.

 

The reluctor would be making contact w/the stator before then.

Perhaps that is why the bearing was dislodged.

I wouldn`t be surprised if the magnet is cracked.

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