hanyou Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 Picked up a brand new DGEV for the brat to fix up my old Hitachi getting 10mpg.. I have a few things left that I am unsure what to do with, as well as a new issue. When I turn the ignition the car starts revving to 5-6k rpms (maybe higher, I turn it off at that point). The throttle cable isnt holding the carb open and I am a bit unsure as what may be causing this. Any ideas? In the last picture, does that black hose on the bottom middle get capped, and does the silver hose in the bottom right get capped as well? I also noticed many people replacing the stock fuel intake on the Weber with the old one that has the fuel return, is that necessary as well? Once this gets fixed to where it is driveable again I will need to figure out my lighting issue. Drove it home from work and the dash lights and headlights flickered and went out, no bad fuse. Assuming it is shorting/grounding somewhere along the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 As to your lighting issues, you don't have a shorting/grounding problem. You have just the opposite, an open circuit or bad ground problem. A shorting/grounding issue will blow a fuse or smoke some wires and you don't seem to have that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanyou Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 Solved the lighting issue... one of my jumpers broke and stopped making the connection, even melted some of the plastic cover around it. Throttle cable was apparently also holding the throttle open slightly but did not feel like much play so it is somewhat adjusted now. Doing 65 makes for 4k rpm though and shifting gears makes the car "slam" into gear. The trunnion for the throttle cable snapped so there is a nub the nut goes on. Had to hold it together with some jb weld but I think I will try to use the one from the Hitachi to replace it. Silver hose ended up going to the Y pipes but did not connect to them, just ended facing them. Still have a few connections left to figure out, but it is somewhat driveable at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2manetoys Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Here's a link with Pics from the old USRM. INVALUABLE as the one in the new USRM only has broken image links (at least for me using Chrome as my Browser). Great write up! Weber Carb installation old USRM Good Luck! Solved the lighting issue... one of my jumpers broke and stopped making the connection, even melted some of the plastic cover around it. Throttle cable was apparently also holding the throttle open slightly but did not feel like much play so it is somewhat adjusted now. Doing 65 makes for 4k rpm though and shifting gears makes the car "slam" into gear. The trunnion for the throttle cable snapped so there is a nub the nut goes on. Had to hold it together with some jb weld but I think I will try to use the one from the Hitachi to replace it. Silver hose ended up going to the Y pipes but did not connect to them, just ended facing them. Still have a few connections left to figure out, but it is somewhat driveable at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanyou Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 That set of pictures and a handful of others on the forum are pretty much the only way I got things together, the manual was obscenely unhelpful.. I did notice a few things between them.. The one that you link to shows the old PCV stuff hooked up and many of the ones posted on the board do not... would this cause many issues? I ended up capping most of the stuff and removing the PCV mess from mine as you can see but there are still 3 things uncapped and open to the air.. One is in the 4th pic that looks like a rattle with an L shaped handle, one is the 5/8 hose in the bottom middle of same pic, and one is a smaller hose coming off of what looks like a relay just to the side of the washer fluid (I think it is a sensor part of the vacuum system). I would assume the slamming is the vehicle revving too high to easily switch into a different gear setting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen115 Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 My brat does the same thing when turned on but only to about 3,000 rmps but that means there is to must gas in the lines and you can stop it by just hitting the gas again. SJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ettev Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Throttle cable binding causing carb to remain open. Install a throttle return spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Not one of your questions but your PCV routing is wrong. You need a 1/4" hose between the passenger side head and the PCV valve/drivers side head in order to get the correct flow. Otherwise you will be pulling oil from the valve covers into the intake. Here is how it should be hooked up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanyou Posted October 13, 2010 Author Share Posted October 13, 2010 Not a permanent hookup, just wanted to make sure it would run decently before getting more parts.. Most of that is hooked up with old hoses that came from the motor cut to suitable lengths, the one T connector is the old F connector with the small end cut off Any suggestions on if these two things are hooked up to anything? I dont have schematics available at the moment. Looking for a new throttleshaft at the moment, used a gatorgrip socket to remove the stuck nut to put the Hitachi plate onto it, twisted the threaded part into breaking without warning. The nub isnt big enough to hold the nut on so the plate falls off. Looking upwards of $40-50 from what I am seeing With any luck that will cure it, if not I will have to figure out a way to mount a return spring as ettev suggested. Running out of things around the house that look like good candidates, may have to break down and actually buy more things As a side note, I found a Subaru Forester in my travels for parts.. Looks like a 2000s model and is abandoned at a house for sale.. owner says make an offer (broken back window, front wheel missing/rotor rusted.. been there awhile, methinks its cheap?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 (edited) Hose in the upper left of the pic, is for the ASV, you can remove it. There's a few more components down there, if you follow the hose. I removed the silencers from mine a capped the ASV itself. Other part in the pic is the Idle-up for AC. It can be removed and the vacuum line plugged, if you don't have AC anymore. There is a way to make it work with the Weber, but you'd have to search for that info. I don't know it right off the top of my head. You could weld the cable attachment to the throttleshaft if you run out of other options. Last ditch idea for that though. Edited October 13, 2010 by TomRhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanyou Posted October 14, 2010 Author Share Posted October 14, 2010 Thanks for the info, I will definitely seal it up. I cant find the info about the AC but that is low priority at the moment. Does anyone here happen to have a DGEV they would be willing to sell the throttleshaft rod thing off of? I talked to Redline and they wont sell one, but will do a discount on a whole lower assembly.. This seems excessive and unnecessary in addition to expensive. Throw me a pm if you have one please, shes sad sitting in one place so long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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