ejswap auto to manual ?s

[Yo'J]

So, I've had to put the brat project down for a little while while dealing with life and all its glory. Now I think its time to pick it up again. It runs but not well. Still idles high, I'm betting the iac still. Tps code is there. injector codes and a few more(? not remembering right now). 90' leg auto into 87 brat.

 

I went to the jy and found a manual 90 car and took all the 4wd specific parts off it (I hope i'm not missing anything!). Injectors, maf, Iac, I couldn't get the ecu as it was gone when I got there. (I'm hoping I dont need the cam and cranks like posted in the other thread) I don't have any extras if any are bad. And I know there is a reason a car is in the jy.

 

For the auto, I also have 3 iacs to be sure, extra maf and a few extra injectors, two tps' and a dual throw petal switch. I got a non messed with throttlebody too. (along with a new, unscratched ea81 windshield for 21.50!)

 

Kind of thinking I should do the manual swap to the motor in my brat instead of trying to just fool the computer into thinking the auto is there.

 

My initial concerns are the high idle, the messed with throttlebody and the Iac valve, along with the injectors I'm getting codes for. The original Tb came with screwdriver marks!?

 

I have all the parts for both fixes but I don't know which way I really should go. I'll bet I'm not in those parts for $30 bucks yet but I do want to flow test the injectors before installing them and when I do that I'll be way over that. I know each fix uses different injectors and I don't want to pay for them twice.

 

My GF is going to maine for a week and I get some time to work on it.

 

So, the sooner I can wrap up the injectors and get them to a shop the sooner I can fix the rest if the problems.

 

What are the pros and cons to each of these plans that I cant think of?

Am I just missing something in either of these plans?

Will my ecu work?

How does the trans need to be wired to fool the computer? I feel I'm missing something because everything I have tried so far has had a hangup or glitch. I am walking back with a fresh head though.

 

Here is a like to my old thread before I found the bad hg. Thats out of the way.

Edited October 4, 2010 by Yo'J
link to old thread

[Gloyale]

This is why I'll never use a 90,91 harness and ECU for an EJ swap EVER again.

 

Stupid differences in MAF, IAC, and injectors (injector difference is irrelavant, they all work if you have the correct fuel rail) And if the IAC throws a code, it cuts the #1 injector to control idle......stupid.

 

So here's the deal.

 

 

 

Leave it as an auto, as in leave the "auto" pin grounded (b48 pin 20)

 

Then trick it into thinking it's always in park. Ground the Park pin (b58 pin 9, Blue w/Orange stripe)

 

Make sure the neutral pin is NOT grounded (b58 pin 10, Light Green w/Yellow stripe)

 

This is what all the VW and sandrail guys do when they use early auto ECUs. Set up this way it should not have any codes or high idle issues. Had to do this for a fix on an EJ22 swapped Vanagon.

 

 

Alternately, you could try to "reconfigure" it as a manual ECU, but you will need to swap MAF and IAC, cut the ground wire to "AT/MT wire (b48 pin 20)

 

Now the issue is you need a neutral switch which the brat trans doesn't have......some have used a cruise control switch on the clutch......never personally went that route but may work.

 

 

I did the tricked into "park" all the time on the auto ECU in mine.....works great.

[Yo'J]

Very interesting...I'll keep it an auto. I'll send out my injectors today. Is it a good idea to add a switch to the e-brake for park? Or will the fuel mapping be fine in the park mode?

 

I got to hand it to you it makes sense! I couldn't read the pin number on one sheet I got and another sheet called the park switch an 'at inhibitor switch'.

 

I tried to use a 92 ecu but it won't give codes and all the problems remained the same. It just blinks constantly. I take it, it would not work with the harness due to differences.

 

Thanks for the reply!

[Yo'J]

Injectors dropped off at witchhunter.com for $20 a peice! (dropped $8 each)........

[Yo'J]

Hey Gloyale! That did the trick! It idles sortof like normal.

 

So, stupid me....Instead of doing one thing at a time, I pull in for the long haul and change out my Iac, throttlebody, injectors, ground the park wire. Charge the battery and start the car.

 

It doesn't shoot to 2000rpm, it runs up to 1800 and smooths its way back down to 800:banana:! But then the smoke show.......and it doesn't go away. Well, its been sitting I say, so I drive it. Not far, a couple of blocks. Its blue, sweet and smells of gas. So the idle jumps like I got an air leak.........silly rabbit....

 

I made my own gasket for the iac as I didn't have one on hand, might be an issue. Injector seating? Ring stuck from sitting? I just did a headgasket job on it without doing 50 miles.

 

There is alot I don't know yet. I just got so far. For some reason the ecm just blinks, constantly, no codes? I'm just venting really. It will be a week till I can look at it for any length of time.

[Gloyale]

For some reason the ecm just blinks' date=' constantly, no codes? [/quote']

 

Do you have the "read" and "d-check" connectors hooked to ground? If so, unhook them for drivng.

 

If you want to read stored codes, plug int he "read' connector(black) The code will blink on the CEL light, not on the LED in the ECU......after 92 the ECUs didn't even have the LED. Steady blink may be normal?

 

If you want to clear the codes, hook up both to ground, start car and run it over 2000k for about 30 seconds, drive 1mph, (just need to trip the VSS switch a few times) then the codes should clear.

[Crazyeights]

@Gloyale sorry for the Hijack

 

Is the '92 and up pre-OBD II EJ22 harness/ECU better in these regards than the '90 and '91 you mentioned for swaps?

[Yo'J]

I got the connectors and the blinking is on the dash. I was wondering if it might be normal. I wired everything with no battery. I think I still have a bad iac so I'm gonna put in a different one and bench it at 3v. That might be some of the prob. I'm gonna get oem injector o-rings and see if that helps too. Just to make sure they seal right.

 

I think I'll do the o-rings first, test, then put a new oem gasket on the iac and check for leaks then:banghead:! Its gotta be some stupid thing like operator error...

 

It sounds like the 92 and up is the best harness or at least the easiest to troubleshoot.

[Gloyale]

@Gloyale sorry for the Hijack

 

Is the '92 and up pre-OBD II EJ22 harness/ECU better in these regards than the '90 and '91 you mentioned for swaps?

 

It sounds like the 92 and up is the best harness or at least the easiest to troubleshoot.

 

The 92-94 harness/ECU is pretty much identical to the 90,91......however I think the 92-94 are a tad less picky about controling the idle. My swap done with a 93 harness had no issues. the swap I did with a 90 harness was touchy, and liked to trip the IAC code and consequently cut fuel to #1 injector. This was partly because the swap was into an 80 without a VSS or Nuetral switch. Installed a VSS and clutch switch, still had issues. Eventually we just plugged the IAC ports and it runs great like that (another option for those struggling with "the surge")

 

I personally now preffer the OBD-II harness from 96-98. If you keep the OBD-II connector, then you can use a scan tool w/live data. That is the absolute best troubleshooting.

 

Additionally, the harness doesn't have the SMJ, and all needed wiring runs to the firewall, so it's all pretty much the same length and fitting to the EA car is easier.

[Yo'J]

I'm ready to post again.

 

I've read all I could on others probs with the ej22 running rich and I think I'v nailled it all down New injectors some new seals and one didnt sit right and put out that fancy "rid my neighborhood of mosquitoes" smoke show. So I found it shoved it in there with a stick and it idles much smoother. I feel though something is still wrong. I start the car and it still shoots smoke, like raw gas. My neighbor said to me it might be the TPS. I'm getting code 22 and I have a brand new knock sensor recently installed. I test the TPS and some things dont seem right. Its testing between b an d at 9ohms and my childrens says 3.5 to 6.5 and both the spares I pulled from the jy say the same. Now my chiltons covers a lot of models. Junk yards have junk, but Napa wants like $270...... (think squeezing blood from a rock emocon here, might be useful)

 

So I guess I'll start asking questions now.

 

How much should I run the car to get out residual gas in the exhaust before I;

blow up myself or the car? Die from asphyxiation on a windless day.

realize its a different problem?

 

I'm getting code 22 and I checked continuity in the circuit, could it be a failed sensor or is my code cheat sheet wrong as it covers many makes too, like my chiltons?

Edited November 4, 2010 by Yo'J