ECS Light

[kfitz]

So we brought the 83 GL home a few days ago & it seems to be running really well. One thing we've noticed 2x is the ECS light comes on while driving. It has only happened twice, and it goes off after a few minutes, or after you turn the car off & then back on again. Does anyone know what this light means and if it's something we need to have looked at? Not sure what it means. Thanks a ton!

[doobieryan]

I think its the emissions control sensor light. So a new o2 sensor. My ecs light is always on when my dash lights are on. Other than that it never comes on. Lol

[GeneralDisorder]

ECS light indicates a fault with the feedback carburetor system. It could be any of a number of sensors - O2 sensor is only one of them.

 

It's a very hard system to work on - it is very primitive and if you need a part like a duty solenoid, etc they are hard to find and can be expensive.

 

The best approach is to replace the entire carburetor with a Weber 32/36 DGEV and forget about the feedback system. At this point they aren't worth dealing with unless you have to.

 

GD

[kfitz]

So, GD, you were right on about the when, not if, on the carb! Here is my other question, then..If the car is running fine right now, and the ECS light only comes on occasionally, is the carb replacement something we need to do immediately, or can it wait? Don't want to cause any damage to the car, but REALLY don't want to have to replace the carbs today if it's not necessary. Can't really afford the car to be out of commission right now, and it would have to wait until hubby has time to do it. Also, how hard it the conversion to the Weber? Thanks again!

Kim

[GeneralDisorder]

It sounds as though it's running alright now other than the ECS light. As such I wouldn't worry about it till you have the time and money. Just leave it alone and it should be ok. Most of the systems that fail on the feedback's won't keep them from running - just takes a big hit on the mileage generally. *If* it should stop running suddenly (such as at a stop light, etc) - unplug the O2 sensor. I once had one that failed and the feedback system gave the wrong signal to the slow speed metering solenoid and it died at idle on me. I unplugged the O2 and was able to drive it home. I probably have more experience with these than any other member on the board and I gave up on them years ago.

 

The Weber is straightforward. How much experience does your husband have with such things? The carbs can be bought new and Redline (the US distributor for Weber's) makes an adaptor plate that fits the EA81's manifold (assuming you have a Hitachi - if you have the carter-weber single-barrel you will have to source a Hitachi manifold for it). It all pretty much bolts on and with a little adjustment will run like a new car. There are lots of threads here on the board detailing this swap. The two biggest hurdles for most people are the PCV hose routing (which a lot of folks have done wrong - not understanding how the system functions), and just getting over the initial shock of how much junk gets removed durring the swap. It changes the whole look of the engine bay.

 

If you husband is a technical guy and enjoys a little project now and then - the engine can be swapped over to fuel injection from a newer model. Here's my guide on that:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html

 

The FI conversion is the ultimate solution to fuel/ignition on the EA81 engine. The SPFI system was totally bullet-proof and generally would last the life of the car with no troubles at all. I have a complete FI system on one of mine that came from a '94 Loyale with 240k on it. Everything still works perfect. I won't kid you though - it's not the type of swap that's for people who aren't familair with cars or wiring, etc. Mechanically it's very simple but the electrical and high pressure fuel systems are too much for those without some experienced wrenching skills.

 

GD

Edited October 4, 2010 by GeneralDisorder