tedbull Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I am pulling my engine this weekend to replace the clutch. The car is a 1990 loyale with a 5 speed. 1.8 motor. I am going to replace the flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing and needle bearing. Should I replace the main seal? I do not know if the timing belt has ever been replaced in the 140,000 miles the car has on it. Along with the clutch replacement what else should I do while the motor is out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Yeah its out and everything is easy to get to....... So... might as well do timing belts and a main seal! maybe valve cover seals if they are leaking... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Whew, glad I never had to replace the clutch on my 92 subaru loyale, I woulda hated having to pull the engine... Suppose Ill have to anyway, but I wont have timing belts to replace whoohoo EA81s. Now, since the engine is pulled, wouldnt it be helpful to do the headgaskets? or at least check them? I see ALOT of Loyales on Craigslist at 180k miles, or 220k miles that need HGs and they are all so cheap because of it, so would it be good to change it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I would say do it all reseal, timing belts, water pump, oil pump seals. anything you do will just help prolong that engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 +1 That's what I did with both of my XTs and my Brat. Not a leak to be seen anywhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I wouldn't worry about the head gaskets if they aren't currently leaking. Clean out the engine bay as best you can, it will make any work you do later, including putting the engine back in, easier. Check the bearings on the pulleys for the timing belts, I had one fail 3000 miles after I did a timing belt. If you can swing it right now, replace them all, as well as the water pump and the oil pump seals and "O" rings, the oil pumps rarely go bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedbull Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 I just ordered the following. clutch disc pressure plate throw out bearing pilot bearing rear main seal (just in case oem is leaking) valve cover gasket set water pump and gasket intake and exhaust gaskets cam and crank seals oil pan gasket timing belts and tensioner and pullys. Planning on removing intake and maybee injectors and cleaning. could not find a local flywheel. Hope my original one is in good shape. I cant think of anything else. All parts are aftermarket and total cost is just over $500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 ^ Thats not too bad, and youre doing it yourself which is even better... Hell, I took my 84 DL into the shop to have my window looked at and they estimate $675-$800 to get my window going up and down... Yea wind flow isnt that important to me, I have other priorities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 please please PLEASE!!!! if you have the timing belts off RESEAL THE OIL PUMP ITSELF!!! The "mickey mouse" gasket is prone to sucking into the oil pump and getting TOD and much more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedbull Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 Oil pump gasket. I ordered it but forgot to add it on the list above. I may end up buying a OEM one if the aftermarket kit looks ************ty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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