987687 Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 (edited) My drive shaft has arthritis and will either need new joints or just completely replaced. It's been making this noise for a while now. I thought it was a front axle that had a blown boot and no grease... Didn't sound like an axle, but hoped it was. Now I know what it is, so... What I'm wondering is, how long do I have left before something comes loose? And when something comes loose is it catastrophic, or do I just pull over and disconnect the rear half of the drive shaft and go on my way? Obviously I'm gonna replace it asap, I just want to know if it's a good idea to drive it in the meanwhile.... Well, it sorta has to be because my leagcy is down for some work.... Edited October 7, 2010 by 987687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Its a ticking time bomb. I had to replace the back part of a 4EAT trans that had a u-joint go out (from PO). Any more questions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 So basically if it comes apart it's a really bad thing... I'm pretty sure it's just the rear section that's going bad (not saying that I'm not going to replace the whole thing), but it won't upset the transmission to just disconnect that section, will it? I don't see why the rear of the transmission needs to be spinning when it's in 2wd. Also, am I correct in thinking the drive shaft acts as a "plug" in the back of the transmission and I can't run with NO drive shaft at all. Thanks for the help. This is annoying ... hopefully I can find a replacement soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 You are correct on all points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 Thanks for the quick help Turbone. I'll pull the back section of the driveshaft for now. I'll just have to remember that if I see a cool looking dirt road off the beaten path I shouldn't take it I can see myself having a hard time finding a replacement in Maine, I may just take it to a shop to have the joints replaced, I'll see. Or... I tried searching but couldn't find anything conclusive. Are any EJ drive shafts the same length? I have an outback shaft (also kinda broken...) sitting in my garage, but for kicks and giggles tried to bolt it up. It's about 1/4" to long. If there's an EJ shaft that works it would probably be much easier to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 im sure i could find one. shipping is a B$%&H on big parts though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 im sure i could find one. shipping is a B$%&H on big parts though If you could find a low mileage one in good condition that would be awesome! It Texas you don't get all the road crap killing stuff under the car like we do in Maine. I can't imagine shipping would be to much. The drive shaft comes apart in the middle, each section is under three feet and doesn't weigh to much. If I can't find anywhere to get mine rebuild or another suitable alternative before winter time I'd gladly pay shipping to get a good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Just don't put it in 4WD with the driveshaft out (obviously that wouldn't do anything anyway) since the rear output isn't spinning and there is no syncro system for the 4WD engagement - it won't slip into 4WD unless you are at a full stop. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I could also get one but I'm farther. We almost never se failures like that here. Occasionaly. Also there's plenty of places around here that are familiar with installing the replacement u-joints for these. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 I could also get one but I'm farther. We almost never se failures like that here. Occasionaly. Also there's plenty of places around here that are familiar with installing the replacement u-joints for these. GD How much would it cost you to get both front and back section? It would be silly to just replace one section ... I can't imagine it would be more than $20 or $30 to ship, it really isn't that heavy. I'd have it rebuilt but I've called all the axle shops I could find on the internet within a few hours drive of me and none of them will do a subaru drive shaft :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 order the rockford ujoints yourself and have a machine shop install them. i wasn't able to find anywhere either and that's what i've done before. this is chump change for machine shops. call around and you should be able to find one willing to do it as many machine shops are automotive focused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 It would probably be around $50 to $100 for me to get you one from a yard depending on what they charge me, etc. I have to pull it to inspect the joints and I won't buy a questionable one so I might have to pull more than one..... Then just shipping which shouldn't be too bad as you say. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 (edited) GD: Cool, thanks. If I can't find anywhere to do the replace it your self ones, or just do that myself ... I'll contact you about getting me a good drive shaft and paying you for your time. grossgary: I searched around and found the links on here talking about the DIY ones. I've done the reading. Rockford driveline has a webpage that shows how to remove the factory joints and put in their replacements, I guess I just don't completely grasp what's going on in those pictures. I should take one apart and see how it works. What I don't get is how the + shaped piece in the middle (the actual joint with the bearings) comes out. I think I get how their replacement works though, it doesn't look like it's staked in, rather has clips that hold it in place. I have an old manual, but very powerful press. So pressing for me isn't an issue. This is the guide which I speak of. If anyone has pics that would be awesome, I just have a hard time getting my head around something that I haven't seen apart yet. http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Staked_Instructions.htm Edited October 7, 2010 by 987687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 (edited) Some wonderful person on the mazda forum made a nice post about this. I see very clearly how it all works now. I'm going to order the DIY joints as it looks really easy. It's going to be well over $100 just buying the new joints... humph Edited October 6, 2010 by 987687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 I ordered the joints, I should have them by the end of the week. I'll keep everyone updated as to how this goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Some wonderful person on the mazda forum made a nice post about this. please post a link to that? that would be great to see. getting the old ones out is easy, choose your favorite cutting tool and cut right through the old ujoint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 It's not the best, but it does show pretty well what goes on. It's missing putting it back together again... But from a different forum I figured out that you leave one cap off to get it in, then just press the other cap on after the joint is in place. Here's the mazda link. http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=517657 Here's a link with more on getting it back together from a truck. I know the truck one is different in a lot of ways, but actually putting the joint back into the yoke should be the same. And some good pics at the end show that nicely. http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/U_joint/repair.htm When I do this I'll take pics and post them up in a new thread so hopefully others wanting to do this will have some guidance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 not going to touch those links on super slow dial up but i'll check them out tomorrow, thanks! i have one already done in my garage that i haven't looked at in years, but i was never sure how it finally was secured in place. install the joint without one end cap - then press that end cap in place - but what prevents the pressed in cap from coming back out? does it have a clip of some sort - that goes inside of the ujoint then once it's pressed in place? i recall it having clips with it and assume that's how it worked. those joints are steep - like $30 each right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 not going to touch those links on super slow dial up but i'll check them out tomorrow, thanks! i have one already done in my garage that i haven't looked at in years, but i was never sure how it finally was secured in place. install the joint without one end cap - then press that end cap in place - but what prevents the pressed in cap from coming back out? does it have a clip of some sort - that goes inside of the ujoint then once it's pressed in place? i recall it having clips with it and assume that's how it worked. those joints are steep - like $30 each right? Yes, it has clips that go on the inside of the joint. You actually have to grind a little bit off the yoke to get the clips in (according to the mazda site). There's another link from the rockford website that isn't all to informational, but worth posting because it shows how the clips go. I don't know why they have such a bad writeup on their site... but here it is. http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Staked_Instructions.htm And yes, they aren't cheap. With shipping it was around $100 for the joints, which sucks, but it was going to be about that for a used drive shaft anyway. If I do it right this should last a very long time with the added benefit that these joints have zerk valves so I can give them some grease every other oil change to help keep water and crap out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 So I canceled the order on these. Bratman18 on here (who lives 10 miles from me) has a good one... And his computer just died so I'm trading a motherboard for a driveshaft. Interesting trade, but it works out. I'll keep the broken driveshaft in case some day down the line I need a new one again I can rebuild it. But right now where money is tight this works much better for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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