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Man as soon as I said all that on my phone the battery died.. I had the car towed home (AAA + came in handy)

 

the cable snapped and the hardware that I think that hold it on the fork came off I don't know if the new cable comes with that or not..

 

It happened at a bad time.. Cell phone was just about dead and I was in Ridgewood, NJ.. tow truck guy was like what the hell brings you out here??

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I don't know it's always felt heavy to me since I got it and it will be 2 years in march.

 

I took some pictures also the hill holder cable it has always been disconnected since I got the car (I can start on hills) but it has like this 3 inch long threaded bolt that's just hanging and that's one more then that could cause ratting later on.

 

IMAG0464.jpg

IMAG0465.jpg

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If you buy a new cable from the dealer (I don't reccomend aftermarket for these) then you will get all that hardware you lost for the cable end with your purchase.

 

The HH cable.... do you have the "cylinder" and the adjuster nut etc or is it just a bare threaded end (looks that way)? You will have to find all that hardware at the junk yard in order to use it if you don't have it. The HH is also the return spring for the clutch fork so if you *dont'* use it you really should install a return spring in it's place.

 

GD

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for future reference it's possible to drive without using the clutch. it's a bit nutty but it'll get you home. i had mine break 700 miles away and some kind folks on here told me how to do it, it was awesome. you have to start the car in gear since it won't go in first when started. after that you rev match each gear and it'll shift.

 

had some awesome atlanta traffic to navigate like that, but it bought me the time i needed and i didn't have to sit or wait around.

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for future reference it's possible to drive without using the clutch. it's a bit nutty but it'll get you home. i had mine break 700 miles away and some kind folks on here told me how to do it, it was awesome. you have to start the car in gear since it won't go in first when started. after that you rev match each gear and it'll shift.

 

had some awesome atlanta traffic to navigate like that, but it bought me the time i needed and i didn't have to sit or wait around.

 

 

impossible.. I don't know where you live but the time I would of droved home it would be rush hour traffic over the George Washington bridge.. At the time I was stuck i was a little over 30 miles from home and with traffic it would of been like 2 1/2 hours of stop and go :(

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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rush hour traffic over the George Washington bridge..
:lol::lol::lol::eek:

no joke forget that!

 

 

this was on an XT6 so this might be different but pay close attention to how it attaches to the pedal assembly before you remove the old one. i removed it all and reattachment wasn't nearly as obvious as i thought it would be. it was years ago so i can't recall what was confusing but there seemed like multiple ways to position/route a bracket, bolt, etc.

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:lol::lol::lol::eek:

no joke forget that!

 

 

this was on an XT6 so this might be different but pay close attention to how it attaches to the pedal assembly before you remove the old one. i removed it all and reattachment wasn't nearly as obvious as i thought it would be. it was years ago so i can't recall what was confusing but there seemed like multiple ways to position/route a bracket, bolt, etc.

Are you talking about the clutch cable or the HH cable?

 

I think the FSM goes over this? The way the old cable was routed seems like it's factory.. I don't know is the new cable going to be as stiff as this old one? One part I forgot to check before everything broke is the hardware that attaches to the shift fork in which order does that go?

 

And that hill holder cable I think the bolt should go in the middle part of that pin, no?

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someone posted some pages/pic's in my broken clutch cable thread from the HTKYSA manual. got some good diagrams that might show the clutch cable fitment for you. older subaru's have hill holders to so it might mention that?

 

i can't recall off the top of my head the exact details and other than the XT6 all my stuff is auto's at the moment.

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Been there, done that. I just drove mine home and rev matched gear shifts, I wasn't to far from home.

I got a new cable from the dealer, I didn't want it breaking again so I didn't buy crap... It was worth that extra money. I still don't know why mine failed at 102k miles. Maybe it was routed wrong? That's a good way to kill the cable.

As others have said, make sure you route the cable properly. Since mine failed at so low mileage I looked around for a good while at pics online to see how the cable is supposed to be routed, and after I found enough that were the same I did mine like that.

 

It's a pretty easy repair, if you want a pic of how I have mine routed I can do that pretty easy.

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It's gonna feel lighter after a new cable because the cable will move easier. Mine was surprising.

You should have 1/4" or something play in the pedal, and some spec at the clutch fork. I can't remember the exact number off the top of my head, but it's in the FSM, or haynes, etc.

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Set the pedal height where you feel most comfortable with it. Some people like it on the floor. Some like it at the top. Right in the middle works best for me. It only takes a small adjustment at the lever to make a big difference at the pedal so make only small changes and check the feel. Chances are it will change over the course of a month or so as the cable "settles". It will stretch a bit and begin to wear a slight groove in the nylon shielding which will change the pedal feel. You probably won't even notice it until it's done though.

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