1-3-2-4 Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 Im stuck in nj right now.. Waiting for the tow how hard is it to replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 Man as soon as I said all that on my phone the battery died.. I had the car towed home (AAA + came in handy) the cable snapped and the hardware that I think that hold it on the fork came off I don't know if the new cable comes with that or not.. It happened at a bad time.. Cell phone was just about dead and I was in Ridgewood, NJ.. tow truck guy was like what the hell brings you out here?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Hit the junk yard and grab a cable. It hooks over the clutch pedal and has s cone washer and rubber bumper on the clutch end. I've never seen one break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 I'm just going to get a new cable only $23 anyways.. i hope it's not a pain to adjust it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Buy a new one. I've seen plenty of them break. Not worth saving $10. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 I was reading that before a cable break the clutch gets heavy to press? I don't know if this is the original cable? Would that be likely at 230,100 miles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Hard to tell - depends on the conditions where you drive. If it was improperly routed over the steering column or heater core hoses it can fail prematurely. etc....yes they do get heavy before breaking - that's a sign that the cable is binding in it's sheath due to lack of lubrication. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 I don't know it's always felt heavy to me since I got it and it will be 2 years in march. I took some pictures also the hill holder cable it has always been disconnected since I got the car (I can start on hills) but it has like this 3 inch long threaded bolt that's just hanging and that's one more then that could cause ratting later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 If you buy a new cable from the dealer (I don't reccomend aftermarket for these) then you will get all that hardware you lost for the cable end with your purchase. The HH cable.... do you have the "cylinder" and the adjuster nut etc or is it just a bare threaded end (looks that way)? You will have to find all that hardware at the junk yard in order to use it if you don't have it. The HH is also the return spring for the clutch fork so if you *dont'* use it you really should install a return spring in it's place. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 I think the hardware for the hill holder is missing the cable I got is after market Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 for future reference it's possible to drive without using the clutch. it's a bit nutty but it'll get you home. i had mine break 700 miles away and some kind folks on here told me how to do it, it was awesome. you have to start the car in gear since it won't go in first when started. after that you rev match each gear and it'll shift. had some awesome atlanta traffic to navigate like that, but it bought me the time i needed and i didn't have to sit or wait around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Some more snaps I took Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 (edited) for future reference it's possible to drive without using the clutch. it's a bit nutty but it'll get you home. i had mine break 700 miles away and some kind folks on here told me how to do it, it was awesome. you have to start the car in gear since it won't go in first when started. after that you rev match each gear and it'll shift. had some awesome atlanta traffic to navigate like that, but it bought me the time i needed and i didn't have to sit or wait around. impossible.. I don't know where you live but the time I would of droved home it would be rush hour traffic over the George Washington bridge.. At the time I was stuck i was a little over 30 miles from home and with traffic it would of been like 2 1/2 hours of stop and go Edited October 10, 2010 by 1-3-2-4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 rush hour traffic over the George Washington bridge.. :lol:no joke forget that! this was on an XT6 so this might be different but pay close attention to how it attaches to the pedal assembly before you remove the old one. i removed it all and reattachment wasn't nearly as obvious as i thought it would be. it was years ago so i can't recall what was confusing but there seemed like multiple ways to position/route a bracket, bolt, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 :lol:no joke forget that! this was on an XT6 so this might be different but pay close attention to how it attaches to the pedal assembly before you remove the old one. i removed it all and reattachment wasn't nearly as obvious as i thought it would be. it was years ago so i can't recall what was confusing but there seemed like multiple ways to position/route a bracket, bolt, etc. Are you talking about the clutch cable or the HH cable? I think the FSM goes over this? The way the old cable was routed seems like it's factory.. I don't know is the new cable going to be as stiff as this old one? One part I forgot to check before everything broke is the hardware that attaches to the shift fork in which order does that go? And that hill holder cable I think the bolt should go in the middle part of that pin, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 someone posted some pages/pic's in my broken clutch cable thread from the HTKYSA manual. got some good diagrams that might show the clutch cable fitment for you. older subaru's have hill holders to so it might mention that? i can't recall off the top of my head the exact details and other than the XT6 all my stuff is auto's at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Been there, done that. I just drove mine home and rev matched gear shifts, I wasn't to far from home. I got a new cable from the dealer, I didn't want it breaking again so I didn't buy crap... It was worth that extra money. I still don't know why mine failed at 102k miles. Maybe it was routed wrong? That's a good way to kill the cable. As others have said, make sure you route the cable properly. Since mine failed at so low mileage I looked around for a good while at pics online to see how the cable is supposed to be routed, and after I found enough that were the same I did mine like that. It's a pretty easy repair, if you want a pic of how I have mine routed I can do that pretty easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 Mine broke at 230,136 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 Back on the road but question how close to the floor should the clutch engage? Right now it's about an inch from the floor.. And it feels super light right now pressing to the floor I went by the fsm for adjustment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 It's gonna feel lighter after a new cable because the cable will move easier. Mine was surprising. You should have 1/4" or something play in the pedal, and some spec at the clutch fork. I can't remember the exact number off the top of my head, but it's in the FSM, or haynes, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 Set the pedal height where you feel most comfortable with it. Some people like it on the floor. Some like it at the top. Right in the middle works best for me. It only takes a small adjustment at the lever to make a big difference at the pedal so make only small changes and check the feel. Chances are it will change over the course of a month or so as the cable "settles". It will stretch a bit and begin to wear a slight groove in the nylon shielding which will change the pedal feel. You probably won't even notice it until it's done though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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