jaredb3000 Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 (edited) Greetings all- Having figured out my cooling and battery issues recently, my new can of worms includes trying to pinpoint the source of oil leakage (94 Legacy Wagon Non-turbo/auto). In this pic, you can't exactly see the fresh oil- the arrow points to the source (the green dots are the older noticeable valve cover gasket oil, been like that for some time): http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af80/jaredb3000/Subaru/Car1.jpg In this pic I have circled what is a rubber gasket behind the camshaft pulley (at a bad angle, the best I could get with my bulky old camera) that appears loose/stretched a bit so that the male component of the gasket does not fit the female component. Seems like that may be the culprit: http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af80/jaredb3000/Subaru/Car2.jpg I circled where there is some fresh looking oil in the driver side timing belt cover: http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af80/jaredb3000/Subaru/Car8.jpg The timing belt appears to be in great shape, with no oil splashing up on to it at all. What I was hoping, but does not seem to be the case for all this oil, is the oil pressure switch: http://i995.photobucket.com/albums/af80/jaredb3000/Subaru/Car9.jpg Sooooo- this switch is cheap enough, I'm thinking I should change this, or is it no biggee? As for the camshaft pulley gasket- I feel a bit overwhelmed when studying the shop manual. How tricky is the timing belt for someone who has never done one? Do I need to pick up a camshaft wrench for this car specifically, or is there any tricks to avoid this purchase? And lastly, is there anything to beware of if I replace the rocker cover gaskets? I have never done these before, but it seems simple enough. I figure since I have the room now might be a good time to do those... Any odd tools necessary? Could I get away without having a torque wrench? That is alot of questions, and I thank anyone who takes the time to answer some of them in advance. As soon as I am no longer a broke college student I will certainly donate some loot this forum for the help I have received over the past couple years- cheers. Edited October 16, 2010 by jaredb3000 Left out pertinent info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 In this pic, you can't exactly see the fresh oil- the arrow points to the source (the green dots are the older noticeable valve cover gasket oil, been like that for some time): You need to replace the camshaft seals. Pretty common on these. In this pic I have circled what is a rubber gasket behind the camshaft pulley (at a bad angle, the best I could get with my bulky old camera) that appears loose/stretched a bit so that the male component of the gasket does not fit the female component. Seems like that may be the culprit: The rubber gasket is just the rear belt cover seal. It's not important and usually they are just thrown away when the rear cover is removed (if you even remove it) for the cam seal replacement. I circled where there is some fresh looking oil in the driver side timing belt cover: Yep - cam seals. The timing belt appears to be in great shape, with no oil splashing up on to it at all. What I was hoping, but does not seem to be the case for all this oil, is the oil pressure switch: Pressure switch looks fine - that's not your problem. Sooooo- this switch is cheap enough, I'm thinking I should change this, or is it no biggee? No need - not your problem. As for the camshaft pulley gasket- I feel a bit overwhelmed when studying the shop manual. How tricky is the timing belt for someone who has never done one? Do I need to pick up a camshaft wrench for this car specifically, or is there any tricks to avoid this purchase? No special tools required. Timing belts on these are very simple. You will have to remove the cam pulleys to get at the cam seals. You should do the cam seals, crank seal, all the idler pulleys, and the water pump while you are in there. Not a bad idea to reseal the oil pump too. And lastly, is there anything to beware of if I replace the rocker cover gaskets? I have never done these before, but it seems simple enough. I figure since I have the room now might be a good time to do those... Any odd tools necessary? Could I get away without having a torque wrench? No torque wrench needed - just pull the rocker covers, clean, and install new gaskets and bolt grommets. When you are putting the bolts back in use a 1/4" drive ratchet and don't be too forceful with them - I have seen people break them That is alot of questions, and I thank anyone who takes the time to answer some of them in advance. As soon as I am no longer a broke college student I will certainly donate some loot this forum for the help I have received over the past couple years- cheers. Sure thing - this is a pretty easy job and if you have any other questions feel free to ask or PM me - I do these like once a week or more it seems GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredb3000 Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 Thanks GD! You rock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredb3000 Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 It looks like the timing belt kit is the way to go, they are around 80 bucks or 125 with a water pump. Is there any aftermarket water pump issues-like with the T-stat to be aware of, or are these 50$ range aftermarkets legit? Getting back to the never having done a timing belt issue, if I put a new one on am I correct in assuming that I will not have to mark anything- just make sure to have the sprockets aligned to the top position when I put the new belt on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Getting back to the never having done a timing belt issue, if I put a new one on am I correct in assuming that I will not have to mark anything- just make sure to have the sprockets aligned to the top position when I put the new belt on? IF you use the correct timing marks, the hash marks, NEVER the arrows or dots or whatever, you will be good. turn the crank by hand until the hash marks are up and then remove the belt. you'll be good. link to pics in my signature below. replace everything, idlers, water pump, seals, cam cap o-rings everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 I buy all my kits from theimportexperts or mizumoauto on ebay. Great prices and both have always sent me quality parts - I haven't had a single part that I balked at from a quality perspective. My veiw on the aftermarket bearings, water pumps, etc is this: 1. The quality is probably not a good as OEM. 2. The quality should be FINE if you replace ALL the parts at EVERY belt interval for 105k belts or EVERY OTHER belt interval for 60k belts. 3. The cost to replace them all with aftermarket every single time the belt is changed is still cheaper than a failure or replacing them every belt change (on 105k belts) or every other belt change (on 60k belts) with OEM parts. This is the conventional wisdom around here. The price for dealer parts on all this stuff can easily run into the $600 to $800 range - thus we have developed these "rules" to forgo the high prices of OEM parts. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredb3000 Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 Cool, thanks yall. Yeah, I'm seeing 125$ kit w/water pump on ebay, vs. $600+ quote from dealer, and 230$ w/o pump for aftermarket kit from local parts store. Internet wins on this one! I suppose I'll pick up the seals from the little guy. Your input is much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Reposted to display pics QUOTE=jaredb3000;962646]Greetings all- Having figured out my cooling and battery issues recently, my new can of worms includes trying to pinpoint the source of oil leakage (94 Legacy Wagon Non-turbo/auto). In this pic, you can't exactly see the fresh oil- the arrow points to the source (the green dots are the older noticeable valve cover gasket oil, been like that for some time): In this pic I have circled what is a rubber gasket behind the camshaft pulley (at a bad angle, the best I could get with my bulky old camera) that appears loose/stretched a bit so that the male component of the gasket does not fit the female component. Seems like that may be the culprit: I circled where there is some fresh looking oil in the driver side timing belt cover: The timing belt appears to be in great shape, with no oil splashing up on to it at all. What I was hoping, but does not seem to be the case for all this oil, is the oil pressure switch: Sooooo- this switch is cheap enough, I'm thinking I should change this, or is it no biggee? As for the camshaft pulley gasket- I feel a bit overwhelmed when studying the shop manual. How tricky is the timing belt for someone who has never done one? Do I need to pick up a camshaft wrench for this car specifically, or is there any tricks to avoid this purchase? And lastly, is there anything to beware of if I replace the rocker cover gaskets? I have never done these before, but it seems simple enough. I figure since I have the room now might be a good time to do those... Any odd tools necessary? Could I get away without having a torque wrench? That is alot of questions, and I thank anyone who takes the time to answer some of them in advance. As soon as I am no longer a broke college student I will certainly donate some loot this forum for the help I have received over the past couple years- cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Valve cover gaskets are easy. Easier if you have a 10mm gearwrench/ratcheting wrench. Timing belts are a bit tougher, not too hard though. You'll need a breaker bar, 22mm socket, and a C-Clamp or a vise (to slowly compress the tensioner for reinstall) But no other "special" tools. Cam Sprocket wrench could be handy, but ussually can get away just using the old belt and some vicegrips. Better yet, unbolt the pulley before removing the belt. blue Locktite on reinstall BTW, the seal you see at the back side of the cover is just part of the dust shield. The actual "seal" around the camshaft is set into the case around the cam. Drivers side is especially easy to change, because you can remove the extension/sensor holder piece from the head, slide it off the cam and easily press the new seal in flat. Just make sure to get a new o-ring for the extension with the new seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredb3000 Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 Thanks Gloyale- I tried to put the pics in my post with HTML code, but no luck... Unfortunately, I had already removed belts before reading your comment. Being in the salt/rust-belt, the crank bolt is going to give me a time, methinks... I found this quote: I learned this next method here on the board, and it works good for when you have to tighten it again, too. Feed a length of rope - maybe 6-10 feet or so - down into one of the cylinders. After that piston comes up, it will lock the engine. Make sure to leave a couple more feet sticking out so you don't lose it! If I go this route, would I remove one of the spark plugs to feed the rope into? How thick, the thicker the better I'm thinking? That would be bad news if it broke... I have as burly a C clamp as they come, and using cardboard to protect the pulley got some decent grip/leverage and still no luck, clamp would slip before the bolt would move... Thinking I might try the rope idea- I looked around and could not find specifics though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 The rope method works well. Remove a plug and stuff it in. Clean new rope preferred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 I use a 1/2" ratchet and a 4lb drilling hammer to get them loose. Works every time. The rope method is good, but takes longer than the "hand-impact" method. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 you should still be able to use the starter bump method for removal even if the belt is off. if the valves are all closed, just bump the starter. but my favorite is thehole on the side of the engine bell housing. slip in a stout screwdriver and rotate the crank until the driver catches on a flex plate bolt. it works great, you just have to look for the hole. knowing it is there helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredb3000 Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Awesomeness- I'll go the rope method. I'm thinking nylon, a little less thick than a climbing rope... I'm guessing that I can leave it in until I go to tighten it up, at which point the rope would have to work itself out and then wrap around the other way to tighten. This leaves me a bit confused as to getting it out once its tight- would I crank it counter clockwise again once the bolt is fastened, at which point the pulley/timing belt would all rotate just as it is now as the rope comes undone? Anyhow, you guys have been super helpful. I imagine the answer will be evident once I get cranking:brow: in the morning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredb3000 Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Just saw the hole in the side of the engine bell housing post- had heard of this elsewhere, just not on USMB. Just might give that a shot first. Thanks yall, nice to know I've got a few options, especially given the ugliness of the rust near that bolt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 You don't want to leave the rope in-place while you are doing the timeing belt. The valves may need to be moved to line stuff up..... Seriously - there's very likely almost no rust on the crank bolt threads - it's just the edges under the head of the bolt that might be a little stuck. Just put a 1/2" ratchet on it and smack the end of the ratchet handle with a heavy hammer (3 to 4 lbs) - half a dozen hits and it's loose. No problem. I don't like using the bell-housing hole, etc - you could break something doing that. *probably* not - but it's possible. Best method is to use an impact or the "hand impact" as I outlined. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredb3000 Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Success! After an overnight in wd40, I first smacked it around with the 1/2in to help loosen things up, and with a sturdy hand socket shaft in the bell housing, managed to get it off. The kicker (and potentially useful for anyone in a pinch)- without a breaker bar around, I made due with an old cast iron outdoor table umbrella stand, weighs about 15-20lbs. It was like having a breaker bar with a steering wheel! On to more rusty bolts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredb3000 Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Sooo, With a few days wait on the T-Belt kit, I wanted to cover a few last bases as some more questions have surfaced... First question is whether or not I need a key for the crank sprocket (found a thread dealing with a 95 legacy, which might be an ej25? that mentioned the need for a key), or otherwise if I can carefully pry it off, not damaging oil pump, and if wd40 is OK for this application. Also, just to double check, when you say reseal the oil pump, I am assuming this would be the very thin gasket and o ring that comes with the crank seal I bought? Perhaps removal of the oil pump would provide some leverage in removing the sprocket, or is this a no-no? I've got the new driver side cam seal/o-ring on just fine, and I have the passenger side cam seal removed. From the looks of the manual, there is not an Oring for this side (I have access to a 92 and 95 service manual)- is this correct, or is there something I am overlooking? I am scratching my head on this one, as the cam seals came with 2 seals and 2 o-rings... Having already done the valve cover gaskets, I just came across this in the shop manual: "After ensuring that the marks on timing belt and camshaft sprockets are aligned, remove stopper pin from belt tension adjuster. CAUTION: After properly installing timing belt, remove rocker cover and ensure that the valve lash adjuster contains no air." Should I definitely do this, or is it a step that might be overlooked when the time comes? Havent come across this in any threads... Lastly- on the passenger side cam pulley, the back side T-Belt cover piece has some of the foam gasket missing- should I worry about replacing this, or can I just remove all the old foam similar to the removal of the rubber gasket on the driver side cover as mentioned in GD's post? Anyhow, thanks to everyone who has offered their wisdom. It's rewarding to save a large chunk of change and do this myself, many thanks to USMB for some handholding along the way! Now that I've gotten into the project, I am not at all overwhelmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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