putertopia Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Ugh, this thing ran perfect yesterday, started it up today and it had awful hesitation in lower RPM range (up to like 3 grand it ran like poop and forget accelerating on the highway). Right now, if I floor it while parked in neutral it bumps up to 1700 RPM then falls to almost dead then goes back up to 1700 RPM. It'll rev if you're easy on it. It's running rich as hell, there's moisture in the tailpipe but the plugs weren't covered in soot until I tried running it without MAF and/or TPS plugged, which makes sense. She still drives, I drove it 60 miles today because I had no choice, had an exam that I had to get to. Performance is just less than adequate and if ya floor it in the lower RPM range while in gear it wants to stall. I've done a compression test, and it seems like the two passenger side cylinders are producing almost no compression. Drivers side cylinders said 60, but this autozone compression tester has me wondering if it's working properly because I put 130psi of shop air into it and it SLOWLY climbed to 60. I only bought the car like maybe a month ago... local junker wants $300 for an engine with unknown mileage. I also tried unplugging the injectors, the only one that made very little difference (but still made a difference) is the on the passenger side closest to the front. If I pulled the spark plug wire, it would start arcing at the ignition coil to the bolts holding the coil on. I took the oil cap off, and there is air coming out, but no smoke and if I remember correctly all my cars have had a little air coming out of the oil filler tube. It's not enough to blow at my face standing above it but I can feel and see little tiny oil droplets blowing out. It's has 219k miles... I understand if it's out but the reason I got this car is because all my friends were like 'oh yeah! I had onea those! Lasted 3xx,xxx miles!' or 'Still kickin at 280k miles'. As a college student and my Mustang taking up my garage in the middle of a transmission rebuild right now, this is not what I wanted to hear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 I've done a compression test, and it seems like the two passenger side cylinders are producing almost no compression. Drivers side cylinders said 60, but this autozone compression tester has me wondering if it's working properly because I put 130psi of shop air into it and it SLOWLY climbed to 60. I only bought the car like maybe a month ago... local junker wants $300 for an engine with unknown mileage. i assume this is a subaru engine, w/ 219k miles. what year, what size engine, what car?????? this info will help find the solution. with the 2 passenger side cylinders having no ( or at least 60 lbs less than the driver side) compression leads me to believe your timing has jumped. depending on the engine and the year it may be a simple as a timing belt job which you can do in the drive way in an afternoon, probably. but it could be a valve job, depending on your engine and year. so what engine and year?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
putertopia Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 Ah my bad, being stupid and forgot 92 Legacy AWD Sedan 2.2L. Previous owner did a timing belt job, has a NAPA sticker on it saying the timing belt is about 6k miles old, I wonder if they screwed up the tensioner or something hmmm. I'm uploading a video right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatswhatshesaid Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115902 ^^^ I think it's this car. ^^^ So...non-interference EJ22E... I agree with the timing jump. and...yeah. If you take care of this motor, I think it has quite a bit of life left. All the people saying "3xx,xxx and still going strong" are right. It's a great motor. I've seen a couple with 400k+ miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatswhatshesaid Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Ah my bad, being stupid and forgot 92 Legacy AWD Sedan 2.2L. Previous owner did a timing belt job, has a NAPA sticker on it saying the timing belt is about 6k miles old, I wonder if they screwed up the tensioner or something hmmm. I'm uploading a video right now. Beat me to it. Let's see a video. The stumbling thing and RPM jumping around indicates a timing issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
putertopia Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 Here's two vids... yes there's a golfball size hole in the muffler and the airbox has two ~2" holes drilled in the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
putertopia Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 Off to work... I'll be back tonight to check on this thread and maybe have a look at the motor with timing belt cover off. Thanks guys, appreciate it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Ah my bad, being stupid and forgot 92 Legacy AWD Sedan 2.2L. Previous owner did a timing belt job, has a NAPA sticker on it saying the timing belt is about 6k miles old, I wonder if they screwed up the tensioner or something hmmm. I'm uploading a video right now. ok, it is a non- interference engine so no damage done. but if they didn't replace everything, belt idlers, water pump, tensioner (although they rarely fail) ect. any one of them could fail . if you are pretty confident the compression on the passenger side is low, i would pull the timing belt covers and look to see if the cam timing marks are in the correct position. if one is off you will have your answer. you will not be able to check the timing mark on the crank sprocket unless you pull the crank pulley and the center timing cover. t-belt kits can be had on ebay for 125$ including the water pump and all idlers, but no tensioner. (search "subaru timing kit" i buy from "theimportexperts" good parts) if this is a temporary car i guess you could open it up and just buy the parts you need locally that are actually broken, but for the price and the trouble involved i would do it all. another idler may let go next week. it is not unusual for a dealer or shop to only replace the things that are bad when doing a timing belt job. but then you end up with your situation. good luck and be sure to do your home work on the timing belt job so you use the correct timing belt marks. NEVER use the arrows. check the links in my signature below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 timing jumped. re-do the t belt correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
putertopia Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 Uhhh... took the left side cam tbelt cover off... there's shredded belt everywhere and it looks like the outer edge of the belt is missing a sizeable amoumt of material, no cracks though lol. I guess at least this was done recently, shouldn't be hard when I have to pull that crank pulley off to do another entire tbelt job lol. I can't see any marks on the belt they're all rubbed off, gonna check the right against the left in a bit. Will let you know when she's back on the road again, after seeing that t-belt I actually feel slightly relieved lol, although I haven't officially confirmed timing is off yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I kinda wonder if the shop that did the timing belt might have damaged the tensioner while compressing it. Shredded belt? Probably timing issue. Pull the cover on the other side and compare the positions of the hash marks on the cam sprockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
putertopia Posted October 26, 2010 Author Share Posted October 26, 2010 Got it all apart within about an hour. Half of the belt is gone. I couldn't even see the tensioner because everything was covered in belt dust, then I used the air hose to blow everything off and found it lol. The idler pulley to the left of the crank was loose. Tried to tighten it, kept spinning. Pulled it out, it looks like someone ripped the threads out of the hole and tried to use red loctite to stop it from coming back out. Obviously that didn't work, and would explain why the belt kept scooting to the outer edge of the pulley and grinding itself up. Could I use a helicoil on this type of situation? P.S. Yes, timing is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 yes you can use a helicoil to repair that, but If I were you, I would NOT put THAT idler back in. I would get the kit and install new ones into the repaired hole and others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 X2 Buy a whole timing kit. Belt with all idlers. If they didn't change the water pump, do that as well. Cheap insurance if that one locks up. There are lots of threads around here about timing belt replacement. Johns siggy has links to a few of them. Be prepared to helicoil other bolt holes. If they stripped one, they may have been borderline with any number of others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
putertopia Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 Well everything is running - finally. I ordered several different taps to get the hole to an m12 x 1.25. Well turns out the material inside those bearings are the hardest material I've ever worked with, with the ability to completely destroy two good drill bits, yet the pulley looks nearly unscathed. Ended up throwing in a heli coil that my fiance's grandfather just happened to have laying in my view while I was over there the today, works perfectly. Just went ahead and used loctite on everything (very smalllll dab at the end of the bolts) just to make sure I don't have to do anything like this again any time soon. I let it run for about fifteen minutes to burn the oil off the exhaust mani while around a fire extinguisher and to burp the coolant system. Even replaced a bulb on the interior so the light turns on with the door. I couldn't get the dumb grin off my face for the first drive. BTW, turns out a drill still doesn't fit between the front of the motor and the a/c condenser with the rad removed. Ended up using a drill bit around 10.7mm with a channel locks over about 45 minutes time to very carefully manually drill the hole by hand. Worked surprisingly well, I was prepared for the worst, just kept the airgun on it to keep the shavings out of the hole. Thank god that hole just happened to be the exact correct size for a helicoil. Thanks guys, excited to start driving this thing again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 Ended up using a drill bit around 10.7mm with a channel locks over about 45 minutes time to very carefully manually drill the hole by hand. OH MY WORD you're insane, i LOVE it! you'll fit in great here!!!! :lol::lol: that's amazing, glad it all came together. for future reference they make right angle drills you can rent that will fit in tight places. they also make right angle drill attachments that fit onto your drill allowing you to drill at a right angle in tight places. harbor freight has them for like a couple bucks. confused as to why you had to drill out the "bearings", but who cares you got it all fixed and running, good job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
putertopia Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 Yeah I called around on the right angle fitting for the drill, it was like all the big stores like Lowes and Home Depot were out of them, and harbor freight is bout 60 miles away unfortunately . But yeah you can tell I was getting tired of dealing with this thing lol. Originally, I had to drill the hole out in the center of the bearing to accomodate the m12x1.25 bolt I had to fit through it. When I couldn't drill that hole out, I decided to go back to the m10x1.25 and a heli coil, and when I was done I felt confident I wouldn't have to mess with it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 ah ha, i gotcha. yeah i've never had a need to go to a larger bolt on timing belt pulley bolts, i've repaired quite a few. i'm sure it'll hold fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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