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what're you running for engine oil?


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i was running Mobil 1 oil and filters on my Toyota and have a bit still left unused since that truck left unexpectedly. i assume i'll have to get different filters but am i good with the 5W-30 Mobil 1 stock i have? any particular brand filters recommended? thanks!

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Mixed opinions on synthetic oil in Subarus. If it has ANY oil leaks, it will spew synthetic like a broken dam.

Some people also think it makes these throw rods through the block. I tend to think oil pressure is more to blame for that. There are known issues with the oil pumps on these, and synthetic oil will clean out any grime that might be in the pump preventing problems. Once that grime/buildup is gone the oil leaks past and pressure goes \/ . :dead:

 

I plan to switch to synthetic once I get the leaks on mine sealed up, which might be the next oil change.

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yep sounds good, i just used that exact oil in my last oil change.

 

my motto on your question is intervals are more important than brand. personally i have preferences (WIX) but avoid FRAM, but even then it's not like any particular brand is making engines fail.

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The bottom line is that most good, and all name brand, oils have to meet a minimum specification for production and sale so all will work well. Synthetics are very good oils and I've heard the same thing about exacerbating leaks, though I haven't experienced it as I use it exclusively on my F-150 as it tows a 5,500 lb. trailer. One big advantage of synthetics is the ability to extend oil change intervals. Maybe if the stuff wasn't so damn expensive, more would use it.

 

I'm a big advocate of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I do believe it one of the very few additives that actually does something good. I got sold on it when I had an '88 Corolla work beater and it was burning oil. The Lucas not only slowed consumption in a big way, it improved performance and upped the gas mileage a tick. I can feel a difference in my '99 OBW.

 

Everybody seems to have a preference in filters. Some seem to be real down on Fram. I've used them for many years and no problems.

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Royal Purple in my Brat.

 

I resealed it 2 years ago and has been fine.

 

Concur that it is thinner than regular oil and its cleaning properties will clean out any gunk that may be helping keep a currently leaking engine sealed.

 

I switched to RP on another high milleage vehicle and it brought in a HG leak. Not saying it was the cause but it sped up the process...

 

Steve

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Agreed on the Fram filter. I know they get bad-mouthed a lot, but I've never had a problem with them over many many years, even their cheapest model. I wonder how much of the negativity is based on what people have heard and not actual use. I've read the posts where they've been cut open and compared to the fancy brands. But still, they've always worked well for me on a variety of old, new, and rebuilt engines.

 

As for oil, it's always been Castrol, Castrol, Castrol. But lately I've been thinking that as long as you change it at decent intervals and the viscosity is right for the conditions, it really doesn't matter.

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I run Castrol High Mileage on both of our '95 Legacys. I also use Purolator filters - usually PureOne. My wife's has 250,000 miles, and mine has 340,000. No engine issues so far, except a stuck valve at around 330,000 miles that a Seafoam treatment cured.

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Agreed on the Fram filter. I know they get bad-mouthed a lot, but I've never had a problem with them over many many years, even their cheapest model. I wonder how much of the negativity is based on what people have heard and not actual use. I've read the posts where they've been cut open and compared to the fancy brands. But still, they've always worked well for me on a variety of old, new, and rebuilt engines.

 

I have never had any issues with Fram oil filters, but have read a lot of negative comments about them. I finally decided to cut open a Fram filter with a hack saw after changing oil/filter. I was not impressed with the guts inside the Fram. There just didn't seem to be much filter media. Since then, I avoid Fram.

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Everyone seems to run xW30 oils in their subarus... I always run xW40 or xW50 in them, and it keeps the oil burning down -- a quart every 2,000 to 3,000 instead of a quart every two tanks. Usually 5W40 synthetic, or 5W50 synthetic. Then again, I've never had a subaru with under 200k miles on it,

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5 quarts of Castrol Syntec Blend (formerly known as GTX Synthetic Blend) 5W-30

with the Subaru OEM filter (blue, made by Honeywell).

 

If I were to use an alternative oil filter...

FRAM: DO NOT use anything lower than the Tough Guard

Purolator: only heard good things about them, I would run their PureOne filter

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i use wix filters for my '95, and parts plus 5w-30 (late fall/winter) and 20w-50 (spring/summer). not sure that brand matters, however, i stick to the same brand of oil every time to avoid additive package differences (minor or not).

 

it seems to have worked so far (250K+ miles). same for the wife's corolla, with 200K+ miles.

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Valvoline "max life" 5w 30 full synthetic, I have a 1990 spfi loyale wagon with 218,000 miles and the full synthetic has improved the motor by far, does leak tiny bit of oil but not to much to worry about, I also added the lucas oil full synthetic additive (which is PRICEY!!!) but it also help a bunch, I think I due up for a change before snow fall and hink I'm going to use the same product.

 

 

on another note,

I heard if you use royal purple, you can't ever use any other oil in your ride, is this true of myth?

 

 

-Nomad

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I don't think it makes much difference....as long as it's changed regularly. I've owned over a dozen different vehicles and I've never had any problems due to the oil not doing it's job. The car will normally fall apart before the engine wears out because of lack of lubrication.

Buy the cheap stuff.....If it's -40° where you live...then buy synthetic.

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AMSOIL. best oil i have ever used. I have an 03 baja and it had 80K on it when i bought it. i drained the engine, tranny, and diff, and swapped all fluids over to AMSOIL. the truck now has just under 110K on and i get better fuel economy with amsoil than the EPA estimates, even with a few small mods on the enigne. the first thing i noticed was how much easier it "felt" to shift, it's a 5spd.

 

from the reveiws i've seen on the economy is: 320 city, and 400 highway.

my actual results are around 300 city and 440 highway.

small engine mods are chopped air box out, and 2.5 in exhaust w/cherry bomb

 

you can get information off the amsoil website, the recommended oil change intervals are 100K for tranny and diffs, and for the engine, 15K if it's all city driving, and 25K if it's all highway driving. I changed my engine oil a bit late at 23K and without exaggeration, it was still carmel colored, and didn't smell burnt at all. I will never go back, and i actually run amsoil in everything i own, I.E. lawnmower, 4 wheeler, diesel air compressor, etc. etc.

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I usually use bio-synthetic fluids from Renewable Lube (.com). However, I've also run Rotella T6 5W40 for a short while. Not enough info to compare to the RLI at this point, but it seems to work fine.

 

Grossgary's point about change interval perhaps being even more important than brand is very important to remember, IME. Along that line, watch out for Amsoil's marketing gimmick of 25k mile drains. For turbo Subarus, Amsoil recommends the factory drain interval of 3,750 miles.

 

You'll find that the thing about synthetic oils cleaning out engines is only partly true. It can sort of clean things up, but that's just as brand-variable in synthetics as it is in conventionals.

 

For filters, I run Purolators. PureONE if they're available for my application. I've tried others, even very expensive ones, but the Purolators work best, based on analysis.

Edited by bulwnkl
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hey bulwnkl have you ever had any issues with amsoil? just wondering, i've been using it for about a year and a half and haven't had any issues.

 

I was actually turned onto it from a mechanic my brother takes his soob to, they race the 2 stroke sprint cars, and say they have to rebuild engines every 8 races, but with amsoil they go 12 races before a rebuild, and i figure i am not racing, being a daily driver the oil wouldn't be put under the same type of conditions they describe.

 

just don't wanna get myself into something that could've been avoided, but as stated earlier my personal results with it have sold me on it.

 

let me know

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hey bulwnkl have you ever had any issues with amsoil? just wondering, i've been using it for about a year and a half and haven't had any issues.

 

I was actually turned onto it from a mechanic my brother takes his soob to, they race the 2 stroke sprint cars, and say they have to rebuild engines every 8 races, but with amsoil they go 12 races before a rebuild, and i figure i am not racing, being a daily driver the oil wouldn't be put under the same type of conditions they describe.

 

just don't wanna get myself into something that could've been avoided, but as stated earlier my personal results with it have sold me on it.

 

let me know

 

Hey, SubaruAlliance. Actually I did have a less-than-positive experience with Amsoil in an A/T a very long time ago. Since then, I've used little or none of their oil, but I was using their EaO oil filters until recently. I have, however, seen a number of UOAs that show the fluid to be shot _well_ before the 15 - 25k miles that you see or hear recommended.

 

In general, I think that Amsoil makes good fluids. I find it expensive for the results one gets, but they're generally good fluids.. It's just monumentally foolish, IMO, to run _any_ engine oil for 15 - 25k miles without checking on it during the run.

 

The 2-stroke results you mention are very impressive. Please remember, though, that a good 2-stroke fluid result does not imply the same result from a 4-stroke fluid. They're very different oils.

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