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the rattle..is still there!


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So after GD helped me with my timing belt and couldnt here the mystery rattle, I thought it was gone but nope, we confirmed its not a rod or engine bearing, it only makes the sound when your in gear, but if its in neutral and you give it some RPMs its not there, well my guess...time for a new clutch,TOB,fork, and possibly pilot bearing, I can almost guarantee thats the problem, whats funny is the shop that did the clutch said they replaced the TOB:rolleyes: I dont think they did, and the whole job only cost me $475 parts and labor, sooo thinking they did a ************ty job. Time to save up some more $$ just sounds a little low for a "so called good shop".

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Thats what I was thinking as well. I know I have at least 1 possibly 2 rattling heat shields, I get the bee hive effect at about 2-3k(stupid brighton has no tach), so I will jack it up at check them out, milesfox has a good idea about hose clamps, so I'll give it a go and see what happens, self tapping sheet metal screws should help too:lol: I HOPE its not the input shaft bearing, that would blow.

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$37 for a T/O and we pull the engine and replace it. I don't see a reason to replace the whole clutch kit for just a bad T/O as long as there hasn't been any slipping, etc. It's about 4 hours to pull and replace the engine with inspection and cleaning, etc. While the engine is out we can check the tranny input shaft for play. Typically if they are bad they will make noises all the time and the gear oil will be full of metal.

 

GD

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Maybe the clips on the TOB fell off?

 

If you put your foot on the clutch pedal and push it just a bit, will the sound go away?

Not enough to start disengaging, but just enough to feel some resistance when the TOB sets up against the pressure plate.

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So i still ahve the rattle noise, well I decided to "slightly" adjust the clutch cable tension, only one full turn on the nut(s), not enough to really be a big diff, well I was driving and the thing started slipping, going about 40mph and it felt like it was trying to throw itself out of gear but couldnt, great well I think something down there is shot, gonna have to park it until I can get some money to have it looked at:mad:

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They may not have surfaced the flywheel when the clutch was done before - leading to premature slippage, etc. I wonder it they also reused the clutch plate and only replaced the disc :rolleyes:. Hhhmmmm

 

It's sounding like the clutch job was hokey considering the price and the issues you are having. When *I* do them it rarely comes in under $500 for a full clutch job with new parts, resurfaced flywheel, and oil seperator plate (and occasionally rear main) replacement..... got to figure $250 in parts and then you know my labor rate. I'm cheap compared to most any shop so I can't see how they could have done a quality job for what you paid.

 

Discount Import Parts - see how much a clutch is there. I'll make you a good deal on pulling the engine and installing a new setup. I have an EJ flywheel we can have resurfaced and ready to go in so there will only be an afternoon of downtime.

 

GD

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Does your car have the hill hold brake?

 

If the noise goes away when the pedal is depressed slightly, it could be that the TOB is rattling around against the release lever. Putting slight pressure on the pedal pulls the TOB up against the fingers on the pressure plate which makes it stop rattling.

There are some small clips that hold the TOB to the release lever and they frequently fall off after clutch jobs. Usually because they are old and the installer didn't bother to replace them, or they were installed incorrectly.

 

Here's another idea that may help determine the source of the noise. Try slowly reving the engine in neutral, up to about 2500 rpm and back down, to see if the noise becomes apparent while sitting still. If the noise is produced at a certain RPM try to hold it there and push the clutch pedal in for a few seconds and see if it goes away. Release the pedal, see if it returns. Repeat the process a few more times to confirm.

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Yeah I think they went pretty cheap, wish I new the brand, was so off one I cant remember, I'm 75% sure its clutch related, if it was the engine I think it would not depend on the speed, and it idles fine, revs perfect etc, just does some odd stuff, I new the prob was getting worse. at first tonight when it did it, I thought the timing jumped, but I think I would notice that and GD knows his stuff. Let me see if I can get the cash, and I will swing by, will bring bearings and hopefully compressor motor.

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My wife told me that a few months ago she though she was smelling burnt news paper when she going up hill!...disc perhaps:lol:, let me scrounge up the cash, I swear this car is pissing me off. But gotta deal with it.

 

It's a car. It was designed to piss you off. :lol:

 

Bruning anything going up a hill is either tires or clutch. < Gonna bet on clutch since it's kinda hard to burn tires in a Subaru. :rolleyes:

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So i still ahve the rattle noise, well I decided to "slightly" adjust the clutch cable tension, only one full turn on the nut(s), not enough to really be a big diff, well I was driving and the thing started slipping, going about 40mph and it felt like it was trying to throw itself out of gear but couldnt, great well I think something down there is shot, gonna have to park it until I can get some money to have it looked at:mad:

 

If its slipping, did you tighten the cable too much to where it is trying to disengage the clutch when driving???

 

Steve

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