90 Legacy-Ticking noise after warmup

[matt4irish]

Have a 1990 Legacy L Wagon w/ 224k+ mi. A friend had the car for 4 years and we just got it back and have been working through some issues due to the fact that it sat idle for a period of time (run intermittently the last two years). An example would be a failed #1 fuel injector that we replaced.

 

Anyhow, the car starts right up and runs strong (i.e. lots of power). The strange thing is that after it warms for a few minutes, it develops a rythmic ticking-like sound. It seems to come more from the passenger side and disappears upon acceleration. It returns at idle, and then goes away completely if the car is stopped and cooled.

 

It almost seems like the opposite of piston slap.

 

Any ideas?

[TheLoyale]

Lifter ticking. Clogging oil passages on the Lifter bodies. Seems strange it goes away under acceleration, and doesn't happen while the engine is cold.

 

Might be a sloppy lifter body, starts after the engine is hot cause the oil is thiner, and doesn't happen under acceleration cause the Oil pressure is higher (40psi) so its putting more pressure on the lifters keeping them from slapping.

 

-Tom

[GeneralDisorder]

Sounds like a ticking hydraulic lifter. An easy upgrade would be to install the '97/'98 solid lifter rocker arrangement and just eliminate them.

 

Acceleration and a cold engine both increase oil pressure - thus the lifter doesn't tick when fully inflated.

 

GD

[TheLoyale]

YEAH!

 

I beat GD to the answer tonight

 

Sounds like a ticking hydraulic lifter. An easy upgrade would be to install the '97/'98 solid lifter rocker arrangement and just eliminate them.

 

Acceleration and a cold engine both increase oil pressure - thus the lifter doesn't tick when fully inflated.

 

GD

[matt4irish]

I was thinking lifters too.

 

So, the reality is that I will be selling the car as my Subie is a '96 Outback.

 

Since I'm selling, my concerns are two-fold:

 

1) Is there risk of any true engine damage with this condition?

2) Can I do some things that might "clean" the somewhat blocked passages and restore normal operation on a permanent basis?

 

I've seen lots of talk about using Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil in conjunction with a good oil change, but would value your expert opinions.

 

In all honesty, I have not even changed the oil yet. Due to the 1 cylinder down issue from the formerly non-functioning fuel injector, I wanted to eliminate that issue first. Now that the power's back, I will likely due a 5w30 oil change. Should I add the MMO or Seafoam? And if so, can they provide a long-term fix as opposed to a cover?

 

Thanks!

[TheLoyale]

Before you change the oil, pour about 1/4 can of Seafoam right into the oil (Do not drain any oil out as the seafoam will waterdown the oil. Drive it around a little 20 miles or so, then drain the oil while warm and put fresh in, I run 10w-40.

 

You can also use ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) in the oil which will also clean things. But you never want to leave MMO, Seafoam, or ATF in the oil. you will want to change it no longer then 200 miles (I would change it within 50 at most) but thats me.

 

And no, Lifter ticking won't cause any damage. The lifter(s) might be worn and will always make noise as a lot of the EA82 owners know.

 

Cheers.

[Fairtax4me]

Lifter ticking. Clogging oil passages on the Lifter bodies. Seems strange it goes away under acceleration, and doesn't happen while the engine is cold.

X2.

Not strange. Cold engine idles high to warm up, cold oil is thick, combine the two = oil pressure high.

Idle engine = low oil pressure + Warm engine (= warm oil) = low pressure. Low oil pressure = lifter bleed down.

Accelerating engine = oil pressure normal = bled out lifters pump up again.

 

Change the oil with a high mileage blend such as Valvoline or Castrol to help clean out partially clogged oil passages, and use a quality oil filter.

If that doesn't fix it in one or two changes, you might want to remove the rocker shafts and clean out the oil passages in them.

Beyond that, the backing plate on the pump may be a bit loose which is allowing pressure to bleed out at the pump.

 

Or the rotor in the pump may just be worn beyond spec and isn't making the right pressure anymore. Doubtful though. I don't think I've read about a single one of those ever needing to actually be replaced. Usually the screws on the backing plate just need to be tightened up.

[TheLoyale]

I haven't ever seen an EJ motor with a lifter tick that did not go away, I think the lifters in the EJs are a little more robust rather then the EA82s (GL/Loyale)

 

Also, Subaru motors tend to like the thicker oil (Even in -0 weather)

[matt4irish]

Part of the issue may be just how much it sat I'm guessing. Running anything through it for sustained driving will likely also work to help break down some deposits.

 

Based on what I'm reading from your replies, would I better served by using a 5w30 or 10w40 oil when I replace if I'm dealing with what may be a series of symptoms that are only occurring in low pressure scenarios?

 

Thanks again . . . I continue to learn from your collective expertise!

[TheLoyale]

Yes sitting a lot can cause ticking, so the more you run it maybe any gunk thats making stuff stick will blow outta there. Don't be afraid to open it up on the highway.

 

I always run 10w-40 in my Subarus, I don't see any problem with it. make sure you also use either a Wix, Purpolator or Genuine filter. DO NOT USE FRAM...! This has been gone over time after time Lol.

 

Part of the issue may be just how much it sat I'm guessing. Running anything through it for sustained driving will likely also work to help break down some deposits.

 

Based on what I'm reading from your replies, would I better served by using a 5w30 or 10w40 oil when I replace if I'm dealing with what may be a series of symptoms that are only occurring in low pressure scenarios?

 

Thanks again . . . I continue to learn from your collective expertise!

[matt4irish]

Hey also, what do you guys think is a reasonable price for this car?

 

Body is fairly rough, but tires are virtually brand new. Runs strong. Probably more the "winter beater" type car or would be good for someone who wants a strong engine/tranny combo. I'm not sure what it's really worth. I'd love your weigh in on that too.

[Fairtax4me]

Try checking Autotrader for listings for similar cars in your region.

[TheLoyale]

Hey also, what do you guys think is a reasonable price for this car?

 

Body is fairly rough, but tires are virtually brand new. Runs strong. Probably more the "winter beater" type car or would be good for someone who wants a strong engine/tranny combo. I'm not sure what it's really worth. I'd love your weigh in on that too.

 

 

Your in IN? Well I've noticed the going rate for a good runner first gen Legacy around here is about $500-1200 if the body isn't totally rotted $1500. But with 200k+ I'd say about $1200 at most.