Phizinza Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 So I over heated the auto in the property work wagon and now its stuck in first gear. When in park the engine is constantly under load, when in reverse it rocks back and forth a little and is under load but won't reverse. When in neutral it drives forward, and in D 2 or L it drives. I haven't tried to get it into second gear because I don't drive this car fast. But I'd bet it would hate it! So question is, anyone know how to unlock it out of first gear? I'm thinking the solenoid has stuck and is holding it into gear. I really am not a fan of auto 4WD's! This is the first I've owned but I've driven a 3sp EA82 and it was the same as this EA81 3sp. I've also driven a '00 model Land Cruiser with an auto.. All of them have had issues related to being autos that I get annoyed with. Maybe I need to find a manual box for this work wagon and swap it in! But while I have no money, it would be sweet to know what I could do to free up this auto box... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 Well, if you... ... I over heated the auto ... ...Overheated the Transmission, the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Must have Loosed its Chemical Propierties and / or Create Gum Deposits that Could make that Behaviour... I Kindly Suggest you to Check the ATF and if it is Lookin' like Dirt Water, I Suggest Clean the Transmission, then Put Fresh ATF... it Might Help. Good Luck! Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 When we bought "Christine" (Steven King reference), it had a whole bunch of forward gears and no reverse. All of the forward gears actually worked ("D" was a little sticky/erratic). I flushed the ATF (looked like mud), drove it around to warm it up and hopefully clear out any lingering crud. The thing that finally worked for me (kids, don't try this at home) was multiple throttle run-ups to converter stall speed while stopped, let up and shift between forward and reverse and run it up again to stall speed. Did a couple of these, drive for a bit to let things cool down, and repeat. The last time I did it (duh!) there was a clunk noise and the problem resolved. Might have done so without my shenanigans. My guess is that a/the band near the rear of the tranny had its actuator-piston foul and got stuck. I think that the band's actuator is externally accessible on the right side near the transfer section (old memory, too tired to grab FSM). These are old memories and half-guesses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 change the fluid and filter WHILE ADDING in a pint of TRANS-X, then do a multitude of R-N-D shifts to work out the valve body. It sounds like one of your clutch packs or bands is stuck holding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 Fluid is nice and clean looking and there seems to be plenty, can't check it while in neutral as its locked in first. Yeah first thought I had was the first gear band solenoid got stuck when trying to hual more than 600kg of chopped wood in the back up a steep slope. The revs went up to 5000 or so but no wheel spin. I think I over done it trying. I've already shifted it between all the gears many times and its still stuck, more you say? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 pour in a pint of trans-x and try that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Fluid is nice and clean looking and there seems to be plenty, can't check it while in neutral as its locked in first. Yeah first thought I had was the first gear band solenoid got stuck when trying to hual more than 600kg of chopped wood in the back up a steep slope. The revs went up to 5000 or so but no wheel spin. I think I over done it trying. I've already shifted it between all the gears many times and its still stuck, more you say? Finesse might be better than my brute-force way. Might be worth trying to access the band's piston. Not sure of operation modes, but you might have also dislodged the band strut. (Not sure if the strut coming adrift would stick it in forward or do just the opposite.) I have dislodged/bent a band strut on a 4EAT from overstressing it... very badly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobieryan Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 Its toast. Put a manual in it:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 pour in a pint of trans-x and try that Not all of us live in North America, any suggestions for alternatives that I might be able to source? NorthWet, I've been looking in a manual I have on my computer for the EA81 auto and I've found the right plate on the side of the box that covers the band solenoid. I've taken out the circlip but am having trouble getting the plate out. Also due to no room at all (haven't pulled the trans out) its hard to get to it. But I'll keep trying. From what I can see and understand in the manual and on general websites describing autos when the band is engaged it engages first (or "low"). So I assume the solenoid is just stuck not letting the band go. But who knows, the band might just of fused on to the drum? Like I said, I was full revs, no movement and no wheel slippage. Only let it go like that for no more then 15 seconds. But whatever, it hated it! hahaha... If I can get a manual without a blown 2nd gear (like the spare I have) I'll put a manual in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 When in park the engine is constantly under load, when in reverse it rocks back and forth a little and is under load but won't reverse. When in neutral it drives forward, and in D 2 or L it drives.. You also said you had the engine revved up to 5k rpms without the wheels moving? 5k rpms is way higher than the stall speed of the torque converter (the speed at which the engine can make the TC slip at will full power applied and the wheels held locked with the brakes), which means those extra 3k rpms were going somewhere. Most likely, a slipping forward clutch pack in the tranny. When you slip a clutch pack, the temperature skyrockets. Clutch packs are made of stacks of frictions and steels, when you heat steel, it warps. When you warp the steels in a clutchpack, it can no longer disengage. The classic symptoms of this is a tranny that's never in neutral, drives forward fine, and has difficulty or just plain can't reverse. Without a rebuild, that tranny is done. It was probably low on fluid already for it to have low hydraulic pressure clamping the forward clutch. When you feel an auto transmission slipping, the best thing is to let off, let it cool down (idle it in neutral with the parking brake on), and find out what the problem is, be it low fluid, a clogged filter, or a failing throttle pressure modulator valve. It's never the right answer to give it more throttle until it cooks its self into a solid lump. Putting in that spare manual with no 2nd will be more useful than what it's got in it, at least you will have forward and reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 Yeah, but I'm concerned after blowing up second gear the piece in there will ruin the other gears. Also that gearbox has been through a bloody lot. It was in my Brumby years ago with over 2000km of 4WD hard top driving. And 3 race weekends in the race wagon. So I don't want to go to all that effort putting a gearbox in which might just blow up more at any time! I realised something was wrong when the wagon wasn't moving and stopped revving it. My brother said it wasn't spinning. Pulled it out with the Toyota, seemed fine after that but then didn't reverse. I've been reading much about autos and looking throughout my service manual which goes into much detail about the 3sp 4WD Auto. From everything I read it isn't the forward clutch but the band that is stuck. I tried pulling the band solenoid off the side, got the circlip out but no luck getting the rest out while it is in the car. Tried adjusting out the band on the other side and its still locked so that tells me the band is fused on.. I have come to the conclusion the box is as good as a boat anchor. I'll be looking for a good D/R 4 or 5 speed to put in it, until then its just gonna have to sit with the rest of the wrecks. Didn't like the auto anyhow, nothing like having proper 100% drive through a gearbox that you can control! Oh, and the fluid was right near the full mark when I got the car. But after draining it it did look a little merky. On top of all this I have number 3 and 4 compression rings sticking, so the engine sounds like a tractor and barely moves the car! hahaha. I've got another ok engine I'll throw in it when I do the gearbox though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pickstock Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 i have an 82 DR manual in gawler if your interesed, not sure on the ration but happy to sell with the rear diff if your really interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phizinza Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 At the moment the most I could offer would be $50 for both. I'm tight on money, and the car only cost $75... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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