Help a new Subaru guy learn the ropes! (clutch related)

[Dogbone]

1991 Loyale 4WD.

 

I recently purchased this car knowing the clutch was slipping and needing replaced.

 

My problem, what do I want to purchase?

 

From searching the forums, I see lots of folks are using "ebay kits", particularly the timing belt kits.

 

So would one of these "clutch kits" I see on ebay be okay? If so, which one? Lots to choose from, so I'm looking for advice.

 

Thanks in advance for your helpful suggestions.

[GorgeSuby]

I did exactly the same thing! Worked out well for me ... ended up buying one from Edmunds Auto E-bay store - brand was recommended here but can't remember which .... maybe post which one(s) you are considering to get more feedback.

[SuBrat84]

Clutch Kit from Autozone ~$150 is just fine. One of the e-bay ones is probably the same thing? I think the common brand for these is Exedy? Probably cheaper from e-bay if you don't mind waiting.

"Clutch Kit" should be:

Clutch Plate

Pressure Plate

Throwout Bearing

Alignment Tool (not all kits have the tool, it's VERY helpful.)

[ruparts]

hi,

just so you know the 2wd has a different size clutch than the 4x4 models, and the throwout brng and fork is different too, so be sure which you order. good idea to replace the rear main seal at this time and some blocks have an inspection plate with gasket on the back of the block beside the rear main. both can leak and cause a lot of smoke cause they always drip onto the exhaust pipe. there has been discussion here about aftermarket rear main seals not staying in place, you might want to use a real subaru one if possible. good luck with everything.

[Dogbone]

I did exactly the same thing! Worked out well for me ... ended up buying one from Edmunds Auto E-bay store - brand was recommended here but can't remember which .... maybe post which one(s) you are considering to get more feedback.

 

Well, I'm not sure about any of these, but these prices sure beat the $750 I was quoted by several local garages, and the $300 plus Subaru kit I priced online.

 

Anyway, here's a few I'll throw out for comparison:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Standard-Clutch-Kit-Subaru-4-cyl-1800-Loyale-XT-/7984169267?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1dbe4c133

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Exedy-Clutch-Kit-1985-94-1-8L-Subaru-Loyale-4WD-/350166940467?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5187937b33

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-92-Subaru-Loyale-1-8-1-8L-New-OE-Clutch-Kit-/310258331154?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483cd66e12

[Dogbone]

Clutch Kit from Autozone ~$150 is just fine. One of the e-bay ones is probably the same thing? I think the common brand for these is Exedy? Probably cheaper from e-bay if you don't mind waiting.

"Clutch Kit" should be:

Clutch Plate

Pressure Plate

Throwout Bearing

Alignment Tool (not all kits have the tool, it's VERY helpful.)

 

I was pretty surprised to see the prices for the "ebay" timing belt kits, and to see so many folks on this forum seem to use them, so I was just wondering if there was an equivalent "ebay clutch kit" that I should be looking at.

 

Does the Autozone kit come with the alignment tool?

 

If so, I'd probably just as well go that route.

 

The deeper I look, it seems the <$100 clutch kits on ebay are for 2WD Loyales.

 

4WD Loyale clutch kits, $150 and up, and then there's the shipping $$.

[Dogbone]

hi,

just so you know the 2wd has a different size clutch than the 4x4 models, and the throwout brng and fork is different too, so be sure which you order. good idea to replace the rear main seal at this time and some blocks have an inspection plate with gasket on the back of the block beside the rear main. both can leak and cause a lot of smoke cause they always drip onto the exhaust pipe. there has been discussion here about aftermarket rear main seals not staying in place, you might want to use a real subaru one if possible. good luck with everything.

 

Thanks for this info.

 

Particularly the info regarding these seals. That's EXACTLY the kind of advice I need!

 

I posted more info on my first "Welcome" post regarding my Loyale and my plans, so for this discussion I'll quickly summarize:

 

Just bought it, 1991 Loyale 4WD, $200, 3rd owner, my first Subaru.

 

200K+ miles, clutch slipping.

 

Right now, car on jackstands, radiator, hoses, alternator, etc. removed in preparation for "motor forward" clutch replacement.

 

Also will do: timing belts and pulleys, oil pump, water pump, accessory belts, cooling hoses.

 

Also I will put in helicoil inserts and install exhaust studs (size recommendations and tips appreciated, metric, SAE, ARP studs or something less $$, etc????)

 

So, there's that. Thanks again to everyone for their help.

 

[Ricearu]

i use LUK kits in several of my cars. they hold up well and are priced right. I have seen a lot of those Valeo (who also makes the duralast clutches) kits self destruct by throwing the springs out of the clutch disk.

 

I have had my LUK in my 88 GL 4wd wagon for 24k no probs and still kicks like new. I would say though, that you need to have the flywheel machined no matter what and the step should be machined appropriately, someone else back me up on this but last I remember the step should be .900 inch

 

edit:i bought my LUK kit at pep boys about 2 years ago for 140 and autozone sells THE EXACT same (part # and all) for $100 more than pep boys.

Edited November 2, 2010 by Ricearu

[Gloyale]

Do not replace the rear main seal unless it is leaking substantially.

 

The reason is that the seal is VERY tricky to press into place without issues.

 

The design is really made to be installed when the case halves are bolted toghether during a rebuild.

 

So unless it's really leaking, leave it alone, you will cause more harm than good.

[MilesFox]

i second leaving the rear main seal alone as they rarely fail and only do so if the motor is cooked or had bad/no oil most of the time.

 

here is one trick i will tell you now. place a jack under the trans to raise the engine up out of its motor mount stud holes so that it can move forward.

 

are you using an engine crane? i have done the motor-forward job by just undoing the heater and rad hoses(pull the rad or at least take off the fan), but the trans needs to be raised to allow the engine to come forward.

 

if you go this route, and decide to pull the whole engine, you are essentially there once you disconnect the fuel, throttle cable, harness connector and ground cable.

 

if you want to reseal the cam/crank and oil pump seals, may as well just yank the motor out all the way(if you have a crane)

 

watch these videos (The Art of Subaru Maintenance) from unhooking the engine anciliaries, to pulling the motor, to doing the clutch seals, and timing belts

http://www.youtube.com/milesfox#p/u/31/LikIQxQBjxw

Edited November 2, 2010 by MilesFox

[GorgeSuby]

...I bought my 92 Loyale 4wd 150k mi for $600.00 with slipping clutch so looks like you got a deal. I used the Sachs kit off Ebay & it has held up well so far .. I just di the clutch the normal way by dropping the tranny - no issues.

[Ricearu]

I have done one pulling the transmission (mine) and a ea82 and ej18 imprezza by pulling the engine and I will never drop another transmission. That's my $0.02

 

note, unless i am dropping a trans to rebuild it like this past weekend.

[Dogbone]

Thanks to all for the additional replies.

 

Gotcha regarding the rear seal. I'll inspect it when I pull the flywheel. Unless it's trashed, I'll leave it be.

 

Engine hoist/crane? No, I don't have one. Although I am watching Craigslist and if I catch one for cheap over the next few weeks, I will grab it.

 

Obviously this will be my first Subaru clutch job. After studying the manual, and studying the car, and considering all the other work I want to do in front of the motor, the "motor forward" just made more sense to me, since I wanted to pull the radiator and hoses anyway.

 

All axle boots are in excellent condition, and despite the clutch slipping, the tranny shifts fine, so I'd rather not mess with a good thing if I don't have to.

 

Extra thanks for the youtube video! Thanks!

[Dogbone]

Loyale is one the road!

 

Slight change of plans though. Basically, didn't bother with the clutch myself, as available overtime at my work made it more appealing to just pay my mechanic to knock it out for me. To be honest, given my lack of garage, that suits me fine.

 

Anyway, I'll take care of the little stuff myself, but without a garage, I'll let the pros handle the bigger stuff.

 

Will change oil tomorrow, and next on the agenda, front brake pads, new timing belts, pulleys, H2O and oil pumps, and valve cover gaskets.

 

Oh, I'll need to throw a stereo in it sometime soon, priorities you know.

 

Got to drive it around town a little this evening. Noticed the temp gauge is not reading, so need to check into that as well. Other than that, smooth sailing and really cool feeling to finally have my first Subie on the road.

 

And I "tested" the 4wd briefly on my sloped gravel driveway as well. Now I'm actually looking forward to the first snow fall to check out what it can do in the white stuff.

 

Anyway, thanks again to everyone for their tips.

 

[Dogbone]

Just wanted to thank everyone again for their advice and give a brief update on owning my first Subaru and having it on the road for 8 months now, and how WELL it got me through winter.

 

As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I did cave in and let my mechanic replace the clutch, and I also let him replace the right front wheel bearing that began making noise, and I also got the valve cover gaskets replaced.

 

Still on the engine agenda is new timing belts, (including timing belt cover removal), new cam and crank seals, and new oil pump.

 

I wired in an older JVC stereo with a tape player I had lying around, that ironically is now quite functional since I also had lying around an old fashioned "cd to tape player" adapter, that I now plug into my cellphone that contains over 8GB of my favorite music.

 

Where I live in Virginia, just north of Charlottesville, we missed most of the dramatic snowfalls that either hit the northeast above us, or even the more southern parts of Virginia, but we did have a few significant accumulations, and how nice it was to not only have a vehicle that was good in the snow, but I found myself actually wanting it to snow just to go out and play!

 

I watched in amusement many times this past winter as the many rear wheel drive BMWs and Volvos that are popular in C'ville did their graceful ice dances, and I simply went when where I needed to go without any drama whatsoever. And this was with tires very much past their prime.

 

In early Spring I put on 4 new tires, but this was after the last snowfall so I didn't get to see how well my Loyale could really do in the white stuff.

 

So last month I went through the A/C and got it functional again mainly by bypassing the "Belt Protection System". The last few weeks here in Virginia, with temps in the upper 90F's and heat index at over 105F, it was quite pleasant to cruise around enjoying the ice cold air blowing in my little 20 year old Subie.

 

Anyway, thanks again for making this such a useful forum for Subaru owners!

Edited June 18, 2011 by Dogbone