djmtsu Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 I'm new, but have been lurking for quite some time! Great place. Here is the problem I am having. I swapped in an EJ22 from a 95 Legacy into my 98 OB last weekend. After chasing down some vacuum issues, and swapping all the sensor from the 2.5, all was well. Then I got a code for P1507 IAC Fail safe mode. Car ran like absolute crap. I finally fiddled with the IAC motor, and got it to run great. Fast forward to yesterday morning, when the water pump decided to start pissing out the weep hole. Last night I tore it apart, replaced the WP, timing belt, tensioner, all pulleys and Tstat. Fired it up and everything was well. topped off the coolant, and spent quite a while making sure that all the air bubbles were out. Drove it around the neighborhood. Shut it off, started it up 5 minutes later, and the P1507 is back. I fiddled with it AGAIN, and it was fine......until this morning. Fired it up, high idle. Put it in gear, barely idles at 400rpms and chugs with no power. The car is a automatic, I know it makes a difference. One other thing, I noticed that the coolant temp gauge stays really low (barely above C) even thought the engine is at temp (scan tool says level 185 degrees). Thoughts? HELP!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 Welcome to the USMB. There are 2 sensors for coolant (I know because I accidentally left one unplugged one time). The one I had forgotten was a spade terminal located under the #3 intake. Kinda hard to see. I believe it was for the gauge but could be mistaken. SOmeone here will know where the other one is and for sure which one does what. IAC - I've only ever had troubles with one and I believe I just swapped it out. So I'm actually of little help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 No other codes? You probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. Double double check all hoses and connections. Did you remove the intake manifold for any reason? What about the throttle body or IAC valve? It's possible the IAC needs to be cleaned, or it could be faulty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 No other codes? You probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. Double double check all hoses and connections. Did you remove the intake manifold for any reason? What about the throttle body or IAC valve? It's possible the IAC needs to be cleaned, or it could be faulty. No other codes. I have re-done almost all the vacuum hoses, I did find some cracked ones initially after swapping in the engine. The intake was never removed, the TB was removed so I could install the one from the EJ25. New gasket. I will give it another go with a can of carb cleaner to see if I can find it. It is insanely frustrating. I didn't do anything except put a new water pump and timing belt on, and now the car is pissed at me!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 Forgot to mention that the previous vacuum leak was found due to a simultaneous MAP sensor CEL. That led me straight to the vacuum hoses on the passenger side, and sure enough the hose that supplies the FPR was cracked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 Might have just figured it out. Decided to go check a few things while I had a spare 5 minutes at work. Took loose the motor for the IAC, and low and behold, the o-ring under the motor was pinched and causing a leak. I didn't think it could leak there (hell, I didn't even remember there being an o-ring there). So it is now running smooth, although the idle is a bit low. Maybe I can tweak it a bit with the adjustment slots on the IAC motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 Alright! Good to hear you found the cause, or at least part of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted November 4, 2010 Author Share Posted November 4, 2010 Yeah, I don't know what is up with the gauge. My scanner says that it stays at a nice 185 degrees when warmed up. I might swap the sensor from the dead 2.5. This one might be bad. It is just a PITA to take it out. I fiddled with the IAC and now the idle is a little high at 1000rpms. It is amazing how a minute change makes such a drastic change with that thing! So, I will fiddle with it again after work today. Didn't have alot of time yesterday, had to put new brakes on a friend's Accord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 Yeah that IAC is pretty picky. You're "supposed" to use a scanner to read the duty cycle of the solenoid and adjust it to a certain point, but I think if you leave the engine running, get it warm, and try to slowly adjust it to where idle speed is somewhat correct, it should work out OK. You might try lightly gripping it with a pair of vice grips (emphasize lightly) Just so you have handle that you can easily move it with to make small accurate changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djmtsu Posted November 8, 2010 Author Share Posted November 8, 2010 Got it worked out. Took off the IAC from the old 2.5 engine. I had already removed the motor from the top to put on the 2.2 since that one was seized. The IAC had a paint mark on the inner body, and a corresponding mark on the shaft. I lined those up, and carefully slid the motor on, referencing the 'dirty' areas from when I removed it. Slapped it on, fired it up and all is fantastic!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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