salve7 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) Getting my head gaskets, cam shaft and crankshaft gaskets, water pump and timing belt done next week and was wondering if there is anything that I need to make sure happens at the shop (eg. tips, tricks, what not to do/ use, etc) I come from the world of Land Rovers so I am used to using certain parts/ fluids that are very specific to the vehicle. I plan on a tune up as soon as the scar from my kidney removal heals (had to sell to fix above mentioned problems) and was planning on using NKG (I think, I have it written down) plugs and haven't decided on wires yet. Any suggestions to make my life easier will be met with many thanks and a beer if your close enough. Thanks and I hope I can contribute to the forum. Edit: 1997 Legacy Outback (can anybody tell me how to add a sig at the end of my posts?) Edited November 4, 2010 by salve7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 (edited) Make sure they only use Subaru OEM Head Gaskets. Its NGK plugs and most suggest only Subaru OEM wires. Cheap aftermarket ones have been reported to give problems. Not sure how to add signature. Edited November 4, 2010 by Mike104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 You get a sig when you make a $$ donation to the site, as far as I can tell at least. Subaru (OEM) head gaskets are the most reliable. Aftermarket gaskets are hit or miss. Might be fine for ten years, or they might go bad in 2 days. If you don't have all the timing belt idlers and tensioner, get those as well. Remove and reseal the oil pump while there is easy access. Replace the O ring that goes in the lower corner. Make sure the screws that hold the backing plate on the pump are tight. Remove them and reinstall with blue thread lock if unsure. They are somewhat soft, so an impact driver is a huge help here. There are lots of good threads about oil pump stuff the site here. Offsite, the Beergarage (<--- clickable) has good pics of Oil pump removal and cleaning. On Subaru's some things they care about and some things don't matter. Plug wires seem to be one of the things they care about. Lots of people have trouble with after market wires and recommend ONLY using OEM wires. 1stsubaruparts.com, subarupartsforyou.com, and subarugenuineparts.com, seem to be favorites for online ordering (discounts). NGK or Denso plugs are good. For the 2.5, absolutely get a bottle of Subaru cooling system conditioner and add it to the radiator when refiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 use Subaru head gaskets. best to use the stock Subaru plugs and wires too. i'd get an entire ebay timing belt kit with all new pulleys and tensioners. not point in leaving 13+ year old bearings in those pulleys, they usually spin freely and noisely by now. the kits anywhere else or from subaru are insanely expensive and not cost effective except to only replace pulleys on a one at a time basis based on testing/condition. annoying to do that then have to wait for parts or go get them. leaving them isn't the end of the world but considering how easily these engines can go another 100,000 miles it's well worth it for cheap reliability too. i'm a fan of reliable. i'd use subaru on all of the seals as well, they seem like higher quality to me and I and others have had aftermarkets not seat well. i've used aftermarkets with success plenty of time too but i like 100% success rate at this point. not sure who's doing the work but you essentially want to pull the engine on this one to do this job. most subaru's are far easier to do in the car, not this engine though. it's *possible* but requires lifting the engine and stuff anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 When you pull the engine reseal the real baffle plate or "oil seperator" plate. I recommend NOT replacing the rear main seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainchef Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 I agree with the general understanding that seals, gaskets, and ignition parts should all comes from the dealership. Don't waste your time trying to save a few bucks on these parts. You will likely regret it. Timing component kits from RockAuto.com have treated my brother and I quite well over the years in our Subies. One of their kits also includes a water pump for about $250. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salve7 Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 Thanks for all of the replies! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have a reliable, suby friendly shop within walking distance that is doing the work next week so I will update if anyone is interested. Again thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salve7 Posted November 16, 2010 Author Share Posted November 16, 2010 Had the HGs, timing belt, water pump, belts, and thermostat installed and now things are running "smoothly" again. Thanks again for the help! The OEM HG were actually cheaper than the ones they were going to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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